Das Höhner: The Kings of Carnival

I'll miss Carnival in Cologne this year. That doesn't mean that I have to miss all of the festivities though.
When Kevin and I heard that the most popular Carnival band would be performing in Bonn on the last night that my Mom, sister, and niece were staying with us, we thought the concert would be a great way to send them off.

Das Höhner, which means the Chicken in German, has been performing for over 25 years. Their breakaway hit -- Viva Colognia -- can be heard at just about every Carnival event. It's the city's unofficial anthem and everyone sings along.

I didn't tell my family much about the concert in advance. Frankly, I didn't know much what it would be like myself. But, when we sat down on the night of the concert and watched the opening band, I know everyone was skeptical.

"It's like the circus with the animals," my Mom whispered as a band dressed in clown costumes jumped around on stage. Fortunately, things got better when the main act came on stage. After telling my niece that it was okay to act like a dork -- no one back home would ever know -- we all danced and sang our own made up words and had a great time.

***Watch Das Höhner for yourself.***

Christmas Markets

Traditionally, German Christmas markets open on the first Sunday of Advent. In recent years, however, this custom has become more relaxed. This year I was Thankful for this, since my Mom, sister, and niece were visiting the week before the first Sunday in Advent.
The German Christmas markets are fantastic. Each consists of a collection of small stands set up in town squares. Among the vendors are people selling gift items such as jewelry, hats and gloves, handmade soaps, and lots of Christmas decorations. There is also an abundant selection of things to eat. From bratwurst and pork steaks, to crepes and waffles, each market offers lots to choose from. And of course, there are always warm drinks. The drink of choice at most markets is gluwine. Similar to mulled wine, gluwine is made from red wine and spices. If it's really cold out, you can warm up even more by adding a shot of amaretto or rum to your cup.
We were able to visit a handful of markets in the week that my family was here, including the market near the Dom in Cologne, the markets in the town center of Bonn and Bad Godesburg, and the medieval market in Seigberg. Each market has it's own highlights. Set in the shadow of the Cathedral, the Cologne market has a very regal air. Bonn has a singing deer head. Bad Godesburg has a gigantic manger and lots of Muslims working at the stands.
But of all the markets I visited this year, the market in Seigberg stands out as my favorite. It is a traditional medieval market. That there are lots of candles and torches, all of the gift items are hand made, and the food is cooked over wood-burning fires. Also, instead of a marry-go-round being operated by a machine, two men stood in the center of the platform and turned the contraption by hand.

To Grandmother's House We Go

My maternal grandmother was born in Blieskastel, Germany in a small town in Saarland. Though I had tried several times during the time that I was in Bonn to connect with a distant cousin, I hadn't made it down there. That's why when my Mom, sister, and niece were visiting we decided to make the trip even though we we're able to see any of the family who still lives in the town.
There isn't much going in Blieskastel. A few houses, a couple of restaurants, and a bus stop. That's about it. Still it was nice to see the town where my relatives live. We even managed to find the house were my grandmother was born.
After driving through Blieskastel we decided to head to it's bigger neighbor, Lautzkirchen. Slightly more happening then Blieskastel, Lautzkirchen is still far off the tourist grid. The sleepy little town was setting up its Christmas market while we walked through. Most of the cafes were quite, and when we finally stopped, we were the only customers in the cafe we selected.
At first I wished we had walked in some place else, but once in there was nothing we could do but order something to eat. The waiter/cook was super nice, and in the end made us a very pleasant lunch. By the end of the meal I was translating for my mother, who struck up a conversation with the waiter. As it turns out, he knew some of her relative who still live in the area.

Cologne's Dom

I have to admit that Cologne is not my favorite city in Germany. Sure, it's a big city and has lots of big-city amenities like plenty of restaurants, shopping, museums, sporting events, and an arena that attracts the countries biggest tours. But, it lacks the quaintness and charm that I have found in small cities and villages.

Despite my feelings, though, no visit to the Rhine region would be complete without a trip to the city. And the city's crown jewel, the Cologne Cathedral, should not be missed. Every time I had visitors staying with me, one day included a tour of the cathedral.
It was not different when my Mom, sister, and niece stayed with me. This was the third time I took the English tour, which meets in the back of the church and is offered daily at 11:00 AM and 2:30 PM. I was fascinate that each time I took the tour the guide focused on a different aspect of the church -- once the history and architecture, once the significance on the relics, and once on art and art history.

The cathedral receives thousands of visitors each day. Some come as tourists to see the church that stands as a symbol of national unity. Others come as Pilgrims to pay homage to the relics of the three Magi, which are housed in a giant gold reliquary behind the main alter.
At times during the trip, I felt bad for my niece. Touring Europe with her sometimes slightly geeky aunts and grandmother meant that “teachable moments” were not passed up. But, with so many great lessons presenting themselves, we just couldn’t help ourselves. The cathedral tour inspired a discussion about Pilgrims.

With Thanksgiving only a day away, the American Pilgrims were in the forefront of our American minds. Yet the discussion of Pilgrims coming to the church to visit the relics of the three Magi lead to a lesson about what exactly made someone a Pilgrim.

The Castle Augustusburg in Brühl

When a trip to Europe is a week or less, you really can't waste the first day adjusting to the time difference. It is best to re-set your watch and start seeing the sights. That's why I had plans for my Mom, sister, and niece on their first day here in Germany.

After picking them up from the airport on Sunday we had a brief pit stop at my apartment. (Sleeping may not have been on the agenda, but showering certainly was.) Then it was off to the Castle Augustusburg.
One of the most famous castles in the Bonn/Cologne area and a UNISCO World Heritage site, I had never been there before. Having visitors was the perfect excuse to get there before leaving Germany.

The castle was build from 1725 to 1768 for Clemens August, an elector and archbishop of Cologne. Using the best Rocco architects of the time, it is modeled after Versailles and was intended at a country retreat. Surrounding the castle are elaborate gardens, which are the site of outdoor concerts in the warm weather. Entry to the gardens is free.
The interior can only be visited with a guided tour and costs 5 Euros per person. If you call ahead arrangements can be made for a tour in English. Too bad I didn't know this and we had to take the tour in German. An English guidebook was given to us at the front desk. Many of the rooms are written about and we were able to follow along with the tour.

The castle incorporates just about every architectural and decorative element of the baroque era. That means a lot of glitz and glamour. I especially liked the leather wallpaper with gold leaf appliqué.

The most famous feature of the castle is the ceremonial staircase designed by architect Balthasar Neumann. The space was used a receiving hall and incorporating sculptures and lots of faux marble — which wasn't used because it was less expensive, but rather because it allowed the designers to get the exact colors they wanted. Crowning the space is a fresco ceiling by Carlo Carlone.

Schloss Augustusburg in Brühl
Schlossstrasse 6
50319 Brühl

• Open: Tuesday through Friday 09:00 AM – 12:30 PM (admission until 12:00 PM) and 1:30 – 5:00 PM (admission until 4:30 PM); Saturday, Sunday, and holidays 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM (admission until 5:00 PM)
• Telephone: +49 (0)22 32 / 440 00 or 944 31 17
• E-mail: info(at)schlossbruehl.de
  

Ice Hockey in Cologne

I'm not the biggest hockey fan in the world. I have been to two games before -- once at Madison Square Garden to see the New York Rangers, and once at the RBC center in Raleigh to see the Carolina Hurricanes. Both arenas are huge and my seat was high above the ice. I found it hard to see the tiny puck and didn't have a clue about the rules. Players skated on and off the ice randomly and the play stopped and started.
When Kevin asked if I wanted to go to a hockey match in Cologne, my initial reaction was, "Why? We don't like hockey." But Kevin assured me that this time is would be different. Our seats would be close to the ice and we were going with a few people who would be able to explain what was happening. Also, I've had fun at other sporting events here in Cologne. The fans are fantastic. They drum and sing and chant and do the wave. Even if the game wasn't that great, I agreed to go thinking that at least the crowd would entertain me.

Our journey to the game didn't start out good. We got stuck in traffic on the way and missed the entire first period altogether. When we arrived at the stadium, we were hungry and tired and in desperate need of a trip to the rest room. If you had asked me then my prediction about the evening, I wouldn't have been too enthusiastic.

But then, with wurst and drink in had, we found our seat and were treated to a truly great sporting match. The score was one-one when we arrived. In the second period Cologne scored twice, while the team from Düsseldorf scored three times. Early in the third period Düsseldorf scored again and things looked like they were falling apart for the home team.

Midway through the final period, however, the teams started to rally. A fourth goal helped to inspire the crowd, who had been uncharacteristically quiet. With the cheering now at full volume, the team played hard for the last ten minutes, and managed to tie up the game with less than two minutes of play left.

This meant that the game when into a five-minute, sudden-death overtime period. In under three minutes Cologne scored and the crowd when wild. It was the exact perfect ending to an exciting game.

Carnival Begins

Carnival season, also known as German's fifth season, started today.
To be precise, Carnival always starts on November 11, at 11:11 A.M. I am not sure the significance of the date and time, but I do know that eleven is the number of Carnival. All of the events start at 11:11 A.M. That's why today is referred to as “der Elften Elften,” which translates from German to "Eleven Eleven."
Despite the dismal forecast this morning, I set out see what festivities Bonn had planned. Last year I remember watching der Elften Elften in Cologne on T.V. Huge crowds dress in costume gathered in the old town to sing, dance, and drink Kolsch.

This year in Bonn the crowd was marketable smaller. This didn't really surprise me: Bonn is not the Carnival Capital that Cologne is. Also, this year celebration fell on a Tuesday, while last year's even was on a Sunday. Even still, a few hundred people, most in costume, gathered in the market square to sing, dance, and drink Kolsch.

I think I would get a lot more out of Carnival activities if I could understand what they were saying. But, I am always impressed at the Germans love for a party. It wasn't but a few minuets past 10:30 when I arrived, but still the beer was flowing, people were decked out in the finest clown gear, and when the band played “Viva Colonia” the crowd joined in and swayed to the music.

Fall for Cochem

Last spring, when my parents were visiting, we made a day trip to the Mosel River Valley. Nestled upstream from Koblanz on the shores of this windy, picturesque river is the town of Cochem. With its half-timber houses, ancient gate, and abundance of wine shops, Cochem represents the idealized version of a German wine town. And, even though the day we spent with my parents was cold and rainy, Kevin and I vowed we'd be back.
Our return trip came, ironically enough, when Kevin's parents were visiting a few weeks ago. Luckily, this time the weather was on our side. After spending over a year in Germany, I can say that fall is unequivocally the best time of year here. It seems to rain less, and the crisp air is refreshingly perfect for going out wearing a cozy sweater. Adorned with fall's brightly colored leaves, high above the Mosel Valley is the perfect place to enjoy the season.
In Cochem, it was an easy to do this. After parking the car we headed directly to the Sesselbahn, which translates literally as "chair train." Rising nearly 825 feet, this chair lift takes riders to the top of the Pinner Mountain. You can purchase either a round-trip ticket, or take the chair lift up and walk back down. If you choose to get down on your own accord, you are rewarded for your efforts by being able to stop at a small amusement park and zoo or the Cochem castle.

We purchased round-trip tickets, but were still presented with many options once at the tops. There is a path to a lookout point, which is also the site of the Pinner Cross. Here are stunning views of the town, the river, and the surrounding mountains and vineyards. Also, in what I've come to know as typical German fashion, there is a small cafe where you can get a coffee and piece of cake or a beer.

Hay, Why Not Stay Here in Germany

There was an article in the New York Time's travel section this week that I feel the need to share. It's about what I think should clearly be called "extreme ecotourism." I'd love to know if any of my more adventurous readers in German have ever tried it. And for my non-German readers, I think this will underscore a point that I've been making throughout the last year: that the German's are really, really green.

So, you're wondering what's the hitch, right? The "hotels" discussed in this article are not actually hotels, but farms that have open their doors to travelers. This concept is not new. Throughout Italy and France there are stories written about travelers who stay in charming farmhouse accommodations, with sheep bleeping and cows mooing just beyond the door.

In German, apparently, instead of staying in the farmhouse, guests really connect with life on the farm by sleeping in the barn. Not barns converted into guesthouse, but barns...with the sheep bleeping and cows mooing right there. And, what makes these farm-stays even more surprising is those guests don’t even have beds. Called Heuhotels, which translates to English as hay hotels, guests sleep in loft filled with the cut grasses.

This really gives a whole new meaning to hitting the hay!

Moselle, Rhine, and Ahr: Wine Festivals

Fall is harvest time. Around here, that means it's time to pick the grapes. The Moselle, Rhine, and Ahr River valleys, are all within a stone's throw. In these vineyards, along with those in the neighboring Rhineland-Palatinate, over 70 percent of all German wines are produced.

Riesling is the king of German grapes, but it's not the only variety grown. Other wine wines produced in the region include Scheurebe, Ruländer, Silvaner, Gerwürztraminer, and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). Red wines, include Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Dornfelder, Portugieser and Trollinger.

Fall also means that the picturesque towns surrounding the vineyards come alive with festivals. Typically these events take place in a town's main square, and include music, pagentry and lots of food and drinks. Many towns have wine stores and cellars that are open even on Sundays this time year. Here you can taste the local wines and purchase bottles to take home. But, be sure not to miss the real delicacy at these festivals: a drink called Federweißer.

Also known as new or fresh wine, Federweißer literally translates to feather white. It is made from fermented freshly pressed grapes, known as must. Typically, Federweißer is made from harvests lesser-quality grapes. It owes its appearance, which is greenish white, to suspended yeast.

Federweißer is sold when the alcohol content reaches 4 percent. The beverage continues to ferment in the bottle as the sugars in the grapes continue break down, topping out at a 10 percent alcohol content. The bottled cannot be sealed. Instead, a permeable lid is used to allow the gasses to be released and stops the bottle from exploding.

For this reason it is hard to transport. That, compounded with the fact that it needs to be consumed within a few days of production, make this a real seasonal treat. It is only found in wine-producing areas during harvest time.

Federweißer is made from white grapes. The comparable, but less common, red grape variety is called Roter Rauscher. Both tastes light and refreshing – reminiscent of grape lemonade – and pair very well with savory foods. The local traditional compliment is Zwiebelkuchen.

Zwiebelkuchen, which translates as onion cake, is really more like an onion quiche. Made with a single, bottom yeast crust, the filling consists of steamed onions, diced bacon, cream, and sometimes caraway seeds.

The Potty Post

This post has been a long time in the making. For the last year I have encountered many bathrooms worthy of a photograph. More often than not I don't have my camera with me on these visits, but since being a tourist is my current occupation, I've had it with me enough to document a few of the most interesting restrooms that I've found.

And so, without further ado, here is my collection of favorite restrooms...

The bathrooms in Germany are generally super clean -- even the public ones on the autobahn. Here's a video of how some of these rest areas stay so fresh with self-cleaning toilets.


Though you hear stories about a hole in the ground, I've only seen one of these "toilets" since we moved here last October.

The French have so much style. Here, even the toilet is fancy.
In Ghent, Kevin and I saw these pods and I had no idea what they were at first.
Then, after we figured it out, I asked Kevin to demo it for the picture. He never actually used this pod, though we saw lots of men who took advantage of them during street festival we were attending.
You'd never believe that this is the bathroom for a very pleasant creperie in Paris. Entering the restroom was like going into a whole different world.


This picture documents the craziest sink I've seen.

German History Museum

This afternoon I visited the museum of contemporary German history in Bonn, called the Haus der Geschichte. It is one of five museums located along a single section of Bonn known as Museum Mile. One of the most visited tourist attractions in all of Germany, the Museum Mile includes another German history museum as well as international art museum, a German art museum, and natural history museum.

Although I've lived in Bonn for a year (almost) to the day, this was my first trip to any of Museum Mile's attractions. What was I thinking? The museum was great. I should have been there months ago.

First off, though it may seem petty (or cheap), but I love a free museum. Not that I mind paying an admission fee -- I certainly understand the museums are often under funded and need all the help they can get -- but without a fee the pressure is off to see everything. I can instead take in as much as I want, and can come back as often as I want.

Next, even though all of the text within the museum is in German, you can request and English guide from the information desk. The guide can be purchased for six Euros, or you can borrow the desk copy simply by leaving an identification card as a deposit. The guide provided translations of all of the plaques throughout the exhibits.

The museum itself was really interesting. Covering contemporary history, it started with the end of the Second World War. From there it covered the rebuilding of the nation through the destruction of the Berlin Wall and German reunification. The exhibits included photos, video clips, and various ephemera.

I am simultaneously impressed and saddened by the German people's attempt to reconcile their current role in the world with the nation's Nazi past. Whenever the topic of German identity, nationhood, and patriotism is addressed, it seems to me as though the people are trying very hard to remember what happened. Maybe they feel that education is the best way to avoid having similar thought from re-developing, or perhaps it is a kind a penance that they feel they cannot move away from.

It is interesting though, to remember the legacy that this generation is shaping for the future. They have built a strong economy without neglecting social responsibility. Also, German is a one of the greenest nations in the world.

Unkel Winefest

On Sunday Kevin and I took a boat from Bad Godesburg to the town of Unkel for its annual wine and homeland festival. The event was organized by the Colloquium Humanum, an organization in Bonn that promotes culture events, particularly where these events are able to encourage interactions between Germans and people of different cultures. IFOAM, the organization that I am doing volunteer work for, received an invitation and I was very happy to take them up the offer.

On the west bank of the Rhine, the town of Unkel is approximately 20 miles south of Bonn. Though Rieslings are the most popular wines produced in the region, Unkle is known for its red wines. It is the farthest north red wine grapes are grown, and the Cathedral in Cologne once owned the town’s vineyards.

The boat left from Bad Godesburg and arrived in Unkel a few hours later. When the boat docked, we were met by a brass band. The town's officials greeted us, and then we were taken on a tour of the town.

After the tour, everyone made their way back to the waterfront for one of the day's highlights -- the arrival of the Wine Queen on her boat rowed by men from the town decked out in traditional costumes. Her arrival was followed by a parade, and then we were free to wander through the main square of the festival.

Like every good German festival there was plenty to eat and drink. Bratwurst, potato pancakes, pretzels...they all could be found along with some specialties of the region. At the wine festivals along the Rhine, the drink of choice is Federweisser.

The color of lemonade, with a little fizz, Federweisser is basically fermented, freshly pressed grape juice. It is light, and sweet, and surprisingly refreshing. The alcohol content starts at 4 percent when is it first bottled, and increases a bit over time. Federweisser is special because it is only available locally and in the fall.

The perfect compliment to the Federweisser is zwiebelkuchen. A hearty onion cake, it is similar to a quiche, with less crust, less egg, and a bit of speck. It's a little sweet and a little savory, very delicious, and surprisingly filling. After all that I ate on Sunday afternoon, I hardly had room for a light salad on Sunday night.

Pleasantly Surprise by Düsseldorf

Before this weekend, I'd been to Düsseldorf once. But only to the airport so it doesn't really count. Kevin's been a bunch of times. His company has an office there so all of his visits were for meetings. Quick in-and-out trips that left no time to go anywhere outside of the corporate office parks.

Rick Steves, with his "I've edited the world into only what's worth seeing" attitude doesn't mention Düsseldorf in his German and Austria guide. My other guidebooks don't write overly glowing reviews of the city either.

Taking all of this into account, it's not surprising that even though it’s only a little over an hour from my house by car, I had never visited Düsseldorf before.

This weekend all that changed. I had found a few shops online that I though looked rather nice. We were home this weekend without any huge plans, so I though Saturday would be a nice day for an outing to Düsseldorf.

Düsseldorf is, after all, one of Germany's wealthiest cities. It's home to a number of well-respected museums and cultural venues. It is also renown for its rowdy nightlife. With these credentials I thought it was worth at least and afternoon.

What a pleasant surprise. We started by walking along Hohe Strasse, which has a bunch of boutiques and antique stores. Then, we wondered some more around the mostly pedestrian-only old town (Altstradt). Filled with plenty of shopping, a huge market that left me bummed that I’d already loaded up on fruit and veggies in the morning, pleasant outdoor cafes, and tree-lined streets it was a wonderful way to while away a lovely late summer day.

Bill Was Here

On the news this morning I heard an interesting statistic: If Germans were allowed to vote in the American election, over 75 percent of them would vote for Barack Obama. Indeed, everyone I've met — from friends and colleagues to shopkeepers and random people in my travel — tells me to vote for Obama as soon as they discover that I am American.

But still, there's another American politician that the Europeans enjoy talking about. Not W of course. They get angry when they talk about him. They get excited when talking about Bill Clinton.

What's interesting is that I rarely hear about Bill's policies or political legacy. Instead everyone wants to point out where Clinton ate, drank, slept, and partied. I'm not sure how many times he traveled to Europe during his eight years in office. But it seems that everywhere I go, Bill Clinton was there too.

Bill Clinton was in Berlin. Yup. He made a speech at the Brandenburg Gate. But I also saw were he had lunch. Of course he visited London and Brussels, but do you know what hotels he slept in? He even visited the small German city of Aachen. Naturally he had a snack there too.

In Lisbon I saw the cafe where he was serenaded by one of the city's most famous Fado singers. He ate pizza on the same piazza as I did in Naples. I also know where he had pasta in Rome. There's even a story about a coffee shop in Amsterdam where he smoke some hash with Christopher Walken.

As a matter of fact, from the balcony of my apartment I can see the Petersburg Hotel, where he stayed while visiting Bonn.

Most recently, this trend continued in Dublin. The tour guide on the hop-on, hop-off bus pointed out a restaurant saying, "Clinton ate a steak there." Later in the weekend, one of the locals at Sheehan's Pub wanted to take us to a place where, "Clinton drank a pint."

A Day in the Woods, But Skip the Culture

Back in March when my parents were visiting we took the cog railway in Königswinter to the Drachenfels (Dragon Rock) at the top of one of the peaks in the Siebengebirge Mountains. When we purchased our ticket for the railroad, we also purchased a ticket to enter the Schloss Drachenfels.

According the local tourist information site, it is "definitely worth seeing." My assessment though: don't go with high expectations.

Let me qualify my statement. I was slightly bitter toward the castle from the get-go. When we purchased our ticket in March, the attendant neglected to tell us that the castle wasn't open until April. (You'd think this was a key piece of information to share, right?) Fortunately, the tickets didn't expire, so when I found myself at home on a Sunday with no big plans, it seemed like a perfect outing.

Built by a wealthy stockbroker from 1882 to 1884, the castle sits directly below the Drachenfels fortress ruins. It was damaged during World War II, and soon fell into decay. In the late 60s, a new owner bought the property. He refurbished it and moved in. While still in residence, he opened the castle to the public in 1973.

After the owner’s death in 1989 the region's Institution for the Maintenance of Nature Protection, Homeland, and Culture took ownership. The castle is now considered a historical monument. It is currently undergoing renovations and only a few rooms can be viewed. You can also climb the tower, which offers lovely views of the river valley below.

The castle was our destination, but the day’s fun was in the trip there and back. Kevin and I road our bikes to the ferry, got shuttled to the other side of the river, rode to the base of the mountain, hiked to the top, and had a picnic on the castle grounds. On the way back we stopped in Königswinter for a gelato.

Schloss Drachenburg (Castle Drachenburg)
Drachenfelsstr. 118
53639 Königswinter
Telephone: +49 (0)22 23 / 90 19 70
www.schloss-drachenburg.de
Opening: April 1 through November 1, Tuesday through Sunday, 11:00 AM – 6:00 PM

Event Planing in Bonn

Since arriving in Bonn, most events that I've attended I've learned about through word of mouth. This has been pretty fruitful so far. I have heard about plenty of cool things this way, such as the Beer Exchange, Rhine in Flames, horse races, and soccer games.

Other events I've just happened upon by accident. Especially during Carnival season, which lasts from November through the beginning of February, it seemed like every weekend the public squares were alight with music, dancers, and of course beer stalls.

The problem is, these two methods leave me missing plenty of events that I’m sure I’d find interesting. I know, I know: I should be reading the local paper, practicing my German and finding out what's going on at the same time. But that's not a reliable method of information gathering yet.

Today, however I found a great English-language Web site that lists a calendar of events in Bonn. The Bonn Region tourist site offers a complete list of what's coming up in the area.

Tomorrow we're going to check out the flea market in the Rheinaue Park. Granted, I learned about the flea market through someone at IFOAM. But I found the new site all on my own while searching for additional details about the market.

Visiting the Olympic Muesum

On Sunday Kevin and I decided to check out the German Sports and Olympic Museum in Cologne. Even though we couldn't read everything (the exhibit overviews and main attractions were in English, but descriptions of each individual piece were in German. Overall, though, I would say it was worth the trip.

We purchased the combination ticket, which gave us entry into the museum's special exhibit about the Beijing games. I don't recommend this portion of the museum unless you are able to read German or are visiting with children. (At the end of the special exhibit there is a section where kids can try out some Olympic-style events, such as jumping and climbing on ropes and mats with images of the bird's nest stadium in the background or wrestle with a life-sized dummy.)

The permanent collection is upstairs and covers the history of sports in Germany. On display are some interesting artifacts. My favorites were the "sports corsets" and a series of lockers that highlight famous German athletes. (Did you know the world-record holder for ultra-triathlons — among men and women — is a German woman?)

Special rooms covered the Berlin and Munich games. Both are pretty somber places. The Berlin room deals mainly with the Nazi presence, and the Munich room has a large black box with audio recordings of worldwide radio casts reporting the terrorist attacks on the Israeli team.

There were also a number of interactive exhibits, such as a boxing ring, a long jump, gymnastics’ horses, and weightlifting equipment. Also, on the roof there is a tennis court, basketball hoop, and small soccer field. Equipment is available for children’s use.

The one complaint we had was that since the museum is not air conditioned, parts of the museum were very stuff on a hot summer day.

Cologne's Olympic Museum

In honor of the Olympic Games starting today in Beijing, I thought it would be a good time to write about the Deutsches Sport & Olympia Museum (German Sports & Olympics Museum). I haven't been there yet, but (unbeknownst to Kevin) I think we should plan to visit this Sunday.

This museum displays all kinds of national, international, and Olympic sporting memorabilia. The current special exhibit, address criticisms of the Olympic games. Some of the topics it addresses, as defined on the museum's Web site, include:

"Totally commercialized, questionable decisions, megalomania, political bias: Criticism of the Olympics is diverse, particularly before the Beijing Games. But is it justified?..."

Among the permanent collection are interactive exhibits, which I expect will make the museum more interesting to those who are not necessarily museum lovers (such as my husband).

For anyone interested in visiting, here are the necessary details:

Deutsches Sport & Olympia Museum
Rheinauhafen 1
Tel.: +49(0)221.336 09-0
www.sportmuseum-koeln.de

• Open: Tuesday to Friday 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, Saturday and Sunday 11:00 AM to 7:00 PM, closed Mondays
• Admission: EUR 5.00, EUR 2.50 with discount, family ticket EUR 12.50
• Directions: S-Bahn or bus to Heumarkt

The Garden for the Blind

In the Rheinaue Leisure Park, which is along the river between the center of Bonn and Bad Godesburg, there is a garden for the blind. I noticed the sign a couple of time before, but never stopped in to see what this section of the park is. Today I finally decided to check it out.

Upon entering you are greeted by a statue of an elephant being touched by children. There is also a bronze slab near the entrance with a map three-dimensional map. Inscriptions on the map, obviously, are in Braille and German. There are also markers identifying the names of the plants in Braille throughout the garden's 2,000 plus square feet.

What's interesting about this garden is that everything that is planted here has a strong smell. That's what makes it a garden for the blind. Also, visitors are encouraged to touch and feel the plants. I especially liked that so many herbs were planted here.