Cascais

Yesterday we took the train west – at the rock-bottom price of €1.15 – to the town of Cascais. Here we found a small beach town with an active marina. My tour book describes the town as a fishing village, and though we missed the morning fish market – a wholesale auction – there were enough boats and fisherman organizing their traps on the docks to affirm this impression.

In front of the marina was a small downtown area with shops and restaurants. The weather was warm and the sun was out, so we were able to have lunch outside in one of the squares filled with café tables.

The only disappointment I had was that there is a New York Times travel article about the thriving art scene here. When we stopped at the tourist information office to pick up a town map to find the Ellipse Foundation Contemporary Art Center we were told that it’s not actually in Cascais, but north in a town called Alcoitao. Though I don’t think it was very far out of town, we decided to skip it and head back to Lisbon instead. The pastries that we picked up to eat on the train made up for any disappointment I might have had.

Lisbon Without a Plan

Kevin and I had a perfect day in Lisbon: We wandered around, had lunch, got ourselves good and lost, sat on the steps of a statue and people watched, found the ruins of the church we were looking for, and drank coffee at a sidewalk café. For dinner I had a traditional dish of bread boiled in olive oil with shrimp and a raw egg mixed in. It was like the Portuguese version of shrimp and grits.

The city has quirky shops and interesting alleys to explore. The people have great style and seemed happy to be trying out their new spring looks. What really struck me a great about the day was that I didn’t feel any pressure to see everything. I don’t know if that is a result of Lisbon’s low-key attitude, its short list of must-see attractions, or the fact that I didn’t imposing a the same set of expectations I’ve had for other European trips.

Last spring I spent two weeks in Italy. I had an amazing time, but I also came home exhausted. I couldn’t relax because every time we slowed down I felt like we were missing something important. There was so much to see and only two weeks to see it in. In Lisbon though, I was happy to sit, people watch, and soak up the flavor.

Traveling to Lisbon

I’m at the Bonn-Köln airport this morning, waiting for my flight to Portugal. The airport is very quite and orderly . . . and it's even under construction. Amazing!

Perfect Dinner

People keep telling me that a great way to improve my German is by watching T.V. The problem is, German T.V. is generally pretty terrible. I can't stand watching English-language programming that has been dubbed over in German and original German programming seems like low-budget soap operas. Recently I found one German program that I not only can sit through, but that I actually enjoy.

Das Perfekete Dinner (The Perfect Dinner) is a reality cooking show. In it five contestants have to host a dinner party, with each person cooking on a different day. The contestants then get to rate each dinner – from the taste of the food, to the decor, to how long they had to wait for dessert.

Even though I only understand a few words, I love to see the people chatting so nicely during the dinner . . . then give their comments in private.

No Country for Watching Oscars

I thought about watching the Oscars last night. Around midnight though, with over two hours to go before they even started, I gave up and when to bed.

My heart wasn't really in it because I haven't seen a single Oscar nominated film this year. Instead, I've been watching German films (sometimes with, sometimes without English subtitles). One of the most interesting films that I've seen was "Der Untergang" (shown in the U.S. as "Downfall," which was nominated for Best Foreign Film in 2005).

This film, which I watched in German without subtitles, is about Hitler's last days. Even though I didn't understand any of the dialog I came away from the movie wondering how to feel about a film that portrayed Hitler as a human. Later I learned that when it was in theaters there was a lot of controversy about the film for that very reason. For me, this was an important German – that sometimes emotions are more powerful then the actual words.

Wurst of the Week – 2/25

I think this is some type of blood sausage. It must be at least four feet long. I didn't have enough nerve to try it.

The World Is Small ... But Not the Same

With Skype, CNN international, streaming radio through iTunes, the New York Times online, e-mail, and IM it's easy to stay connected to what's going on back in the states. So easy, in fact, that some days I can almost forget that I'm in another country.

Here's a list a short list of reminders that I'm living in a different culture:
• No speed limits
• Beer is cheaper than water
• The yogurt section in the grocery store takes an entire aisle – or two
• The sheer variety of sausage
• No closets
• The ability to get to another country in a couple of hours
• Retail Saturdays, followed by quite Sunday

Mini Fridge Maintenance Mean Biscuit Bakin'

Is that a dishwasher under my counter? Why no, that's my refrigerator! I know...the fridge in your dorm room was bigger, right?

And here's the real kicker: You'd think it would be easy to keep such a small fridge in order, but the opposite is true. It's hard to see anything in there. Small packages (all that will fit) get lost in the back of the tiny shelves.

Yesterday, while taking inventory I discovered a cup of buttermilk. It had to be used immediately or throw out. This was the best excuse I was going to get to make another batch of the biscuits that I blogged about at the beginning of the month.

This time I brushed the tops with olive oil (we were running low on butter) to achieved the glossy effect missing from the first batch. However, I overworked the dough and the final product was a bit tougher than I would have liked. I guess this means my biscuit quest is not yet over.

A Crepe Mistake

You guessed it, last night I whisked up my first batch of "Dutch" pancakes. (I have inserted quotation marks here because the result was not what I had envisioned – and not Dutch at all.)

Yesterday I poked around the Internet looking for a pannekoek recipe. There was a vast array of options but nothing jumped out at me as the definitive recipe. So, I winged it. The resulting batter was too close to a crepe batter. Don't get me wrong, it was a yummy crepe batter (recipe below), but it was only thick enough to really cook in the bacon* and sautéed apples because I added an extra ladle full of batter.

The real star of the meal though, was the salad. Mache, beets, walnuts, goat cheese, and blood orange vinaigrette (recipe below)!

* I loved the bacon's packaging. I thought it was "so German" until I read the label and saw that it comes from Austria. Anyway, I just had to share it!

Crepes

1 cup flour
1 cup milk
2 eggs
A pinch of salt
A pinch of nutmeg
A drop of vanilla extract

Whisk all of the ingredients together. Let batter rest for at least half and hour. In a hot medium skillet* add a few drop of oil. Pour in one ladle full of batter. Twirl the pan around so that the batter extends to the edges of the pan. Cook until the top is almost dry. Flip. Cook for another minute.

The crepes can be filled with just about anything – fruit, meat, cheese – or better yet, smeared with Nutella.

* Most people suggest using a nonstick pan for making crepes. I don't have a nonstick skillet the right size, so I just used a regular frying pan.

Blood Orange Vinaigrette*

Juice of 1 blood orange
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and pepper

Whisk everything together and pour over salad.

* Since the oranges are sweeter than lemons, limes, or vinegar – the usual acids in vinaigrettes you don't need to follow the traditional ratio of one part acid to three parts oil.

Pancake, Pancake

Since traveling to Amsterdam last fall I've been in love with Dutch pancakes.* Thicker then a crepe and thinner than an American pancake they are the perfect – substantial enough to feel like a meal without being a complete carbo-overload.

A vehicle for all things sweet or savory, I've found a decent pfannkucken (that's the German word; it's pannekoek in Dutch) prepackaged at Kaisers, a chain of German grocery stores that is somehow associated with A&P. Last night I filled our pancakes with sautéed mushrooms, shredded chicken, and goat cheese. To make it a meal I also made salad of mache (a.k.a. lamb’s lettuce, which is very popular here), beets (also precooked and available from the grocery store), and walnut oil.

Dinner was delicious and done in less than ten minutes, but it left the cook in me a little unsatisfied. I spent the entire deep relaxation at the end of my yoga class thinking about making my own pancake. It can't be the hard...so stay tuned.

* We ate at Pancake!, which was recommented in the New York Time's "36 Hours in Amsterdam" article.

Gummies Galor

Bonn is home to the Haribo candy company. Haribo is actually an acronym for the founder's name and city – Hans Riegel, Bonn. Haribo is best known as the manufacturer of Goldbären, a.k.a. Gold-Bears, a.k.a Gummi Bears.

Even though they don't have factory tours, which I think is too bad, the factory store not too far from my house. Yesterday I stopped and got the fixin's for a serious sugar rush. Here you can purchase gummy candies in every imaginable shape, including racecars, rats, cherries, French fries (which is weird to me), butterflies, and Smurfs. They also sell tons of flavors such as wine and cola (my new favorite).

Wurst of the Week – 2/18

Mini Salami Bites: Brilliant or repulsive, you decide. It kind of reminds me of salami flavored popcorn.