Friday, December 19, 2008

Change Is in the Air

So, what happens when an expat moves back? Well, for one thing, her blog has to change. I can't write about life in Germany, but I can share some of the reverse culture shock that I'm experiencing. (I can't tell you how many people have called me "honey" this week. Now, that's something that never happened in Bonn.)

Also, since I still eat, live, and travel I can continue to write about that . . .even if a road trip to New York does not sound as glamorous as spending the weekend on an island in Greece. And, in not too long I can write about adjusting to live with a baby.

Making all of these changes in content pop, I'm working on some changes to the blog itself. Look forward to design updates, sidebars, and featured content. There may even be a surprise or two.

I'm heading north tomorrow and I won't be blogging again until after the holidays. I wish you a very happy and safe one.

Fröhliche Weihnachten!

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Movin' Out

Moving just plain isn't fun. Even though we didn't have to pack ourselves (the moving company came and did it all), my last week in Germany still consisted of a lot of work. Taking everything off the walls, cleaning out the pantry, selling the rest of our 220 volt appliances, organizing what would get packed in the shipping container and would we would need for the next six to eight weeks took most of our time.

Then, once the movers started their work, the house was in total chaos. Thank goodness there were only two days of that. The worst part about the German movers was the dueling cell phones playing really bad head-banger music -- in German! Even though my husband works in the cell phone biz, I really can't support the use of mobile phones as stereo systems. (Though, in his industry's defense, I have heard some very good speaker systems that hook up to mobile phones.) By the end of their first day of packing I was tired, weary, and ready for this project to be over.

The second day went much better. After everything was wrapped up safe and sound -- and I mean everything, even the sofa was boxed -- the movers started loading the container. Here is where German efficiency really came through. Instead of carrying all of our boxes down three flights of stairs and into the truck, the movers used a portable contraption that looked like a cross between an elevator and a crane. This cran-o-vator was raised to our balcony. The movers loaded it with boxes at the top and lowered them down to the shipping container on the street.*

With everything loaded on to the container safely, it was time to say goodbye to our Bonn apartment. It was a good apartment and served us well. I certainly will miss it. But, also, I was ready to go home.

* I have a video to post of this machine, but have to first figure out how to get it off my cell phone. (The charger for my camera was mistakenly packed.)

Monday, December 15, 2008

Das Höhner: The Kings of Carnival

I'll miss Carnival in Cologne this year. That doesn't mean that I have to miss all of the festivities though.
When Kevin and I heard that the most popular Carnival band would be performing in Bonn on the last night that my Mom, sister, and niece were staying with us, we thought the concert would be a great way to send them off.

Das Höhner, which means the Chicken in German, has been performing for over 25 years. Their breakaway hit -- Viva Colognia -- can be heard at just about every Carnival event. It's the city's unofficial anthem and everyone sings along.

I didn't tell my family much about the concert in advance. Frankly, I didn't know much what it would be like myself. But, when we sat down on the night of the concert and watched the opening band, I know everyone was skeptical.

"It's like the circus with the animals," my Mom whispered as a band dressed in clown costumes jumped around on stage. Fortunately, things got better when the main act came on stage. After telling my niece that it was okay to act like a dork -- no one back home would ever know -- we all danced and sang our own made up words and had a great time.

***Watch Das Höhner for yourself.***

Friday, December 12, 2008

Christmas Markets

Traditionally, German Christmas markets open on the first Sunday of Advent. In recent years, however, this custom has become more relaxed. This year I was Thankful for this, since my Mom, sister, and niece were visiting the week before the first Sunday in Advent.
The German Christmas markets are fantastic. Each consists of a collection of small stands set up in town squares. Among the vendors are people selling gift items such as jewelry, hats and gloves, handmade soaps, and lots of Christmas decorations. There is also an abundant selection of things to eat. From bratwurst and pork steaks, to crepes and waffles, each market offers lots to choose from. And of course, there are always warm drinks. The drink of choice at most markets is gluwine. Similar to mulled wine, gluwine is made from red wine and spices. If it's really cold out, you can warm up even more by adding a shot of amaretto or rum to your cup.
We were able to visit a handful of markets in the week that my family was here, including the market near the Dom in Cologne, the markets in the town center of Bonn and Bad Godesburg, and the medieval market in Seigberg. Each market has it's own highlights. Set in the shadow of the Cathedral, the Cologne market has a very regal air. Bonn has a singing deer head. Bad Godesburg has a gigantic manger and lots of Muslims working at the stands.
But of all the markets I visited this year, the market in Seigberg stands out as my favorite. It is a traditional medieval market. That there are lots of candles and torches, all of the gift items are hand made, and the food is cooked over wood-burning fires. Also, instead of a marry-go-round being operated by a machine, two men stood in the center of the platform and turned the contraption by hand.

Thursday, December 11, 2008

To Grandmother's House We Go

My maternal grandmother was born in Blieskastel, Germany in a small town in Saarland. Though I had tried several times during the time that I was in Bonn to connect with a distant cousin, I hadn't made it down there. That's why when my Mom, sister, and niece were visiting we decided to make the trip even though we we're able to see any of the family who still lives in the town.
There isn't much going in Blieskastel. A few houses, a couple of restaurants, and a bus stop. That's about it. Still it was nice to see the town where my relatives live. We even managed to find the house were my grandmother was born.
After driving through Blieskastel we decided to head to it's bigger neighbor, Lautzkirchen. Slightly more happening then Blieskastel, Lautzkirchen is still far off the tourist grid. The sleepy little town was setting up its Christmas market while we walked through. Most of the cafes were quite, and when we finally stopped, we were the only customers in the cafe we selected.
At first I wished we had walked in some place else, but once in there was nothing we could do but order something to eat. The waiter/cook was super nice, and in the end made us a very pleasant lunch. By the end of the meal I was translating for my mother, who struck up a conversation with the waiter. As it turns out, he knew some of her relative who still live in the area.

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Giving Thanks for Thanksgiving

For our first Thanksgiving in Germany, Kevin and I invited over some of our new friends. For our second Thanksgiving in Germany, Kevin and I used the holiday to invite some of those same friends over for one last hurrah. It was amazing to consider how much had changed in the year.
I remember how hard it was to plan the dinner in 2007. Would I be able to find cranberries? Where could I get a turkey? Could I find enough sweet potatoes?

Though my mother mailed a package of cranberries in 2007 just in case, this year I knew that they would show up in the larger supermarkets by the end of November. I have developed a relationship with my butcher, so I knew I was able to order on from him and pick it up on Thanksgiving morning. (And, even though we purchased a bigger fridge, it still wasn't large enough to store a turkey and all the other fixin's.) Also, I knew that the halal shops in Bad Godesburg each would have a few sweet potatoes. It would be no problem to gather enough.

Because my family was visiting the week leading up to Thanksgiving, I prepped all of the desserts ahead. This meant - much to the surprise of some - there was no pumpkin pie since the custard doesn't freeze well. Instead I made a three layer pumpkin cake. It was filled with a rum raisin and walnut filling and iced with cream cheese frosting. The Germans generally really like cake, and this one was a hit. I also served a classic apple pie with vanilla ice cream (it wouldn't be Thanksgiving without at least one pie) and chocolate pecan bars.
One of the best parts about Thanksgiving this year was that I had three kitchen assistants who helped me get everything prepped and in the oven on Thursday morning. I even had time to put up my feet for a bit while the turkey cooked.

All of our guests really seemed to enjoy the evening and everyone claimed to have eaten too much.

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Cologne's Dom

I have to admit that Cologne is not my favorite city in Germany. Sure, it's a big city and has lots of big-city amenities like plenty of restaurants, shopping, museums, sporting events, and an arena that attracts the countries biggest tours. But, it lacks the quaintness and charm that I have found in small cities and villages.

Despite my feelings, though, no visit to the Rhine region would be complete without a trip to the city. And the city's crown jewel, the Cologne Cathedral, should not be missed. Every time I had visitors staying with me, one day included a tour of the cathedral.
It was not different when my Mom, sister, and niece stayed with me. This was the third time I took the English tour, which meets in the back of the church and is offered daily at 11:00 AM and 2:30 PM. I was fascinate that each time I took the tour the guide focused on a different aspect of the church -- once the history and architecture, once the significance on the relics, and once on art and art history.

The cathedral receives thousands of visitors each day. Some come as tourists to see the church that stands as a symbol of national unity. Others come as Pilgrims to pay homage to the relics of the three Magi, which are housed in a giant gold reliquary behind the main alter.
At times during the trip, I felt bad for my niece. Touring Europe with her sometimes slightly geeky aunts and grandmother meant that “teachable moments” were not passed up. But, with so many great lessons presenting themselves, we just couldn’t help ourselves. The cathedral tour inspired a discussion about Pilgrims.

With Thanksgiving only a day away, the American Pilgrims were in the forefront of our American minds. Yet the discussion of Pilgrims coming to the church to visit the relics of the three Magi lead to a lesson about what exactly made someone a Pilgrim.

Monday, December 8, 2008

Home Sweet Temporary Housing

We arrived in Raleigh safe and sound on Saturday night. As I expected, we were a spectacle at the airport. Picture this: Kevin with one pregnant lady, six suitcases, three carry-on bags, and a cat. But we made it safe and sound.

Starting tomorrow I am going to finish writing the posts from the week I spent with my Mom, sister, and niece. Then I'll get to the move posts. Then I'll be up-to-day and will start back with daily posts.

Thursday, December 4, 2008

Amsterdam (or Should I Say Amsterdarn?)

The title of this post is thanks to a bit of seventh-grade humor. Well, that's not exactly true. It's the humor of a seventh-grade teacher, as repeated by the much cooler twelve-year old who joined my mother, sister, and me for our road trip to Amsterdam.

My niece wasn't originally supposed to come to visit Germany until Christmas, when her whole family was also making the trek. Since we have to move back to the states before then, she convinced her parents, grandmother, and aunt that she should tag along with them. Now, she has a new nickname of "Hitch" (short for hitchhiker) and a trip to Germany and the Netherlands under her belt.

This is my third trip to Amsterdam, and each visit I had different lodging requirements. The first time I was here was with Kevin, and we stayed in a hotel outside of the city center. Instead of fighting the traffic, we instead took the train downtown each day. The second time staying overnight, I rented and small canal house in a residential neighborhood. This time, since we only had one night and two days to explore, I opted for the most central location I could find.

Thanks goodness my sister agreed to drive into the city. The small roads were a bit harried and the bikers appeared to have a death wish. She magically navigated the car to a parking garage near our hotel, and we didn't move it again until we were ready to head home.

After settling into our hotel, we headed to the Anne Frank house. Since it was a Monday in the late afternoon in November, there was no line to enter. Though I had been through the house before, I still got a lot out of the exhibit. It is amazing to consider that eleven people hid in these rooms for over two years. I can't imagine what that must have been like.

At the end of the exhibit there is an interactive video presentation about freedom and liberty. After a brief explanation of a number of situations surrounding freedom of speech, religion, and the press, visitors can vote on whether they agree or disagree. This feature dovetailed perfectly with the next spot on our tour of the city: the red light district.

After explaining "personal freedoms" to my niece, we walked down one street in the red light district. Let me tell you though, nothing will stop a group of rowdy men like the sight of my mother marching her daughters and niece through a side street of red lights

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

The Castle Augustusburg in Brühl

When a trip to Europe is a week or less, you really can't waste the first day adjusting to the time difference. It is best to re-set your watch and start seeing the sights. That's why I had plans for my Mom, sister, and niece on their first day here in Germany.

After picking them up from the airport on Sunday we had a brief pit stop at my apartment. (Sleeping may not have been on the agenda, but showering certainly was.) Then it was off to the Castle Augustusburg.
One of the most famous castles in the Bonn/Cologne area and a UNISCO World Heritage site, I had never been there before. Having visitors was the perfect excuse to get there before leaving Germany.

The castle was build from 1725 to 1768 for Clemens August, an elector and archbishop of Cologne. Using the best Rocco architects of the time, it is modeled after Versailles and was intended at a country retreat. Surrounding the castle are elaborate gardens, which are the site of outdoor concerts in the warm weather. Entry to the gardens is free.
The interior can only be visited with a guided tour and costs 5 Euros per person. If you call ahead arrangements can be made for a tour in English. Too bad I didn't know this and we had to take the tour in German. An English guidebook was given to us at the front desk. Many of the rooms are written about and we were able to follow along with the tour.

The castle incorporates just about every architectural and decorative element of the baroque era. That means a lot of glitz and glamour. I especially liked the leather wallpaper with gold leaf appliqué.

The most famous feature of the castle is the ceremonial staircase designed by architect Balthasar Neumann. The space was used a receiving hall and incorporating sculptures and lots of faux marble — which wasn't used because it was less expensive, but rather because it allowed the designers to get the exact colors they wanted. Crowning the space is a fresco ceiling by Carlo Carlone.

Schloss Augustusburg in Brühl
Schlossstrasse 6
50319 Brühl
  • Open: Tuesday through Friday 09:00 AM – 12:30 PM (admission until 12:00 PM) and 1:30 – 5:00 PM (admission until 4:30 PM); Saturday, Sunday, and holidays 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM (admission until 5:00 PM)
  • Telephone: +49 (0)22 32 / 440 00 or 944 31 17
  • E-mail: info(at)schlossbruehl.de

Monday, December 1, 2008

What a Week

Months ago my Mom and sister planned to come to visit over Thanksgiving weekend. My Mom wanted to see my pregnant and help set up the nursery. My sister too thought the trip would be all about getting ready for the baby. When I found out I was going to be moving back to the states, however, their trip changed into something entirely different.

Instead of helping to get ready for the baby, we spent the week traveling around and trying to see as much as possible. That meant, a trip to the castle in Bruhl, two days in Amsterdam, the cathedral in Cologne, a Thanksgiving feast with lots of German friends, a pilgrimage to the town where my grandmother was born, a concert by one the biggest Carnival bands, and the Christmas market in Cologne, Bonn, Bad Godesburg, and Seigburg.

After dropping them off at the airport on Sunday morning, I returned to my house and took a nap. I will write proper posts about all that we did and saw in the coming days, but now I have to start packing the house for our trip back to the states. I can't believe the movers come that day after tomorrow.