Virginia Is for Mothers

I know, I know. It's been quite a while since my last post. That's partly because when I have a few minutes I'm either trying to hustle to get stuff done around the house, or whipped out.

Since this blog was originally started as a travel blog, I figured I should rally today to write about the trip that we took over the weekend. It was the first trip we've taken since the baby was born that wasn't to the home of someone in our family. (My in-laws came with us, so there was plenty of baby visiting going on.)

We spent the weekend at Smith Mountain Lake in Virginia.

Known at the "Jewel of the Blue Ridge Mountains," the lake is located between Roanoke and Lynchburg. In 1966, damming the Blackwater and Roanoke Rivers formed it. The purpose was to generate power and mange the water flow.

Today the lake covers more than 32 miles and has over 500 miles of coast. We stayed at Mariners Landing, a hotel/condo right on the lake. I spent a fair amount of time simply sitting on the balcony, reading and enjoying views of the lake and mountains. The on-site restaurant, The Pointe, was better then I expected. One night there was a seafood buffet, one night I enjoyed a very decent burger, and we had a lovely Mother's Day brunch.

I was also treated a massage at the hotel's sap. The spa itself was no more then a hotel suite. This meant that there really wasn't a deluxe pre-massage shower or a quite relaxation spa to sit afterward. (In fact, a wedding party getting their hair done occupied the living room of the “spa”.) Yet, despite this, the treatment room was quite and soothing and the massage therapist was excellent.

The hotel also had a heated outdoor pool and hot tub. For the first time in my life, though, I skipped the hot tub and headed right for the kiddy pool. It featured a mushroom-shaped umbrella that provided a shady spot for the baby to enjoy his first trip in the water. I'm happy to report that, like his parent's, I think he is going to be a water bug.

Das Höhner: The Kings of Carnival

I'll miss Carnival in Cologne this year. That doesn't mean that I have to miss all of the festivities though.
When Kevin and I heard that the most popular Carnival band would be performing in Bonn on the last night that my Mom, sister, and niece were staying with us, we thought the concert would be a great way to send them off.

Das Höhner, which means the Chicken in German, has been performing for over 25 years. Their breakaway hit -- Viva Colognia -- can be heard at just about every Carnival event. It's the city's unofficial anthem and everyone sings along.

I didn't tell my family much about the concert in advance. Frankly, I didn't know much what it would be like myself. But, when we sat down on the night of the concert and watched the opening band, I know everyone was skeptical.

"It's like the circus with the animals," my Mom whispered as a band dressed in clown costumes jumped around on stage. Fortunately, things got better when the main act came on stage. After telling my niece that it was okay to act like a dork -- no one back home would ever know -- we all danced and sang our own made up words and had a great time.

***Watch Das Höhner for yourself.***

Christmas Markets

Traditionally, German Christmas markets open on the first Sunday of Advent. In recent years, however, this custom has become more relaxed. This year I was Thankful for this, since my Mom, sister, and niece were visiting the week before the first Sunday in Advent.
The German Christmas markets are fantastic. Each consists of a collection of small stands set up in town squares. Among the vendors are people selling gift items such as jewelry, hats and gloves, handmade soaps, and lots of Christmas decorations. There is also an abundant selection of things to eat. From bratwurst and pork steaks, to crepes and waffles, each market offers lots to choose from. And of course, there are always warm drinks. The drink of choice at most markets is gluwine. Similar to mulled wine, gluwine is made from red wine and spices. If it's really cold out, you can warm up even more by adding a shot of amaretto or rum to your cup.
We were able to visit a handful of markets in the week that my family was here, including the market near the Dom in Cologne, the markets in the town center of Bonn and Bad Godesburg, and the medieval market in Seigberg. Each market has it's own highlights. Set in the shadow of the Cathedral, the Cologne market has a very regal air. Bonn has a singing deer head. Bad Godesburg has a gigantic manger and lots of Muslims working at the stands.
But of all the markets I visited this year, the market in Seigberg stands out as my favorite. It is a traditional medieval market. That there are lots of candles and torches, all of the gift items are hand made, and the food is cooked over wood-burning fires. Also, instead of a marry-go-round being operated by a machine, two men stood in the center of the platform and turned the contraption by hand.

To Grandmother's House We Go

My maternal grandmother was born in Blieskastel, Germany in a small town in Saarland. Though I had tried several times during the time that I was in Bonn to connect with a distant cousin, I hadn't made it down there. That's why when my Mom, sister, and niece were visiting we decided to make the trip even though we we're able to see any of the family who still lives in the town.
There isn't much going in Blieskastel. A few houses, a couple of restaurants, and a bus stop. That's about it. Still it was nice to see the town where my relatives live. We even managed to find the house were my grandmother was born.
After driving through Blieskastel we decided to head to it's bigger neighbor, Lautzkirchen. Slightly more happening then Blieskastel, Lautzkirchen is still far off the tourist grid. The sleepy little town was setting up its Christmas market while we walked through. Most of the cafes were quite, and when we finally stopped, we were the only customers in the cafe we selected.
At first I wished we had walked in some place else, but once in there was nothing we could do but order something to eat. The waiter/cook was super nice, and in the end made us a very pleasant lunch. By the end of the meal I was translating for my mother, who struck up a conversation with the waiter. As it turns out, he knew some of her relative who still live in the area.

Cologne's Dom

I have to admit that Cologne is not my favorite city in Germany. Sure, it's a big city and has lots of big-city amenities like plenty of restaurants, shopping, museums, sporting events, and an arena that attracts the countries biggest tours. But, it lacks the quaintness and charm that I have found in small cities and villages.

Despite my feelings, though, no visit to the Rhine region would be complete without a trip to the city. And the city's crown jewel, the Cologne Cathedral, should not be missed. Every time I had visitors staying with me, one day included a tour of the cathedral.
It was not different when my Mom, sister, and niece stayed with me. This was the third time I took the English tour, which meets in the back of the church and is offered daily at 11:00 AM and 2:30 PM. I was fascinate that each time I took the tour the guide focused on a different aspect of the church -- once the history and architecture, once the significance on the relics, and once on art and art history.

The cathedral receives thousands of visitors each day. Some come as tourists to see the church that stands as a symbol of national unity. Others come as Pilgrims to pay homage to the relics of the three Magi, which are housed in a giant gold reliquary behind the main alter.
At times during the trip, I felt bad for my niece. Touring Europe with her sometimes slightly geeky aunts and grandmother meant that “teachable moments” were not passed up. But, with so many great lessons presenting themselves, we just couldn’t help ourselves. The cathedral tour inspired a discussion about Pilgrims.

With Thanksgiving only a day away, the American Pilgrims were in the forefront of our American minds. Yet the discussion of Pilgrims coming to the church to visit the relics of the three Magi lead to a lesson about what exactly made someone a Pilgrim.

Home Sweet Temporary Housing

We arrived in Raleigh safe and sound on Saturday night. As I expected, we were a spectacle at the airport. Picture this: Kevin with one pregnant lady, six suitcases, three carry-on bags, and a cat. But we made it safe and sound.

Starting tomorrow I am going to finish writing the posts from the week I spent with my Mom, sister, and niece. Then I'll get to the move posts. Then I'll be up-to-day and will start back with daily posts.

Amsterdam (or Should I Say Amsterdarn?)

The title of this post is thanks to a bit of seventh-grade humor. Well, that's not exactly true. It's the humor of a seventh-grade teacher, as repeated by the much cooler twelve-year old who joined my mother, sister, and me for our road trip to Amsterdam.

My niece wasn't originally supposed to come to visit Germany until Christmas, when her whole family was also making the trek. Since we have to move back to the states before then, she convinced her parents, grandmother, and aunt that she should tag along with them. Now, she has a new nickname of "Hitch" (short for hitchhiker) and a trip to Germany and the Netherlands under her belt.

This is my third trip to Amsterdam, and each visit I had different lodging requirements. The first time I was here was with Kevin, and we stayed in a hotel outside of the city center. Instead of fighting the traffic, we instead took the train downtown each day. The second time staying overnight, I rented and small canal house in a residential neighborhood. This time, since we only had one night and two days to explore, I opted for the most central location I could find.

Thanks goodness my sister agreed to drive into the city. The small roads were a bit harried and the bikers appeared to have a death wish. She magically navigated the car to a parking garage near our hotel, and we didn't move it again until we were ready to head home.

After settling into our hotel, we headed to the Anne Frank house. Since it was a Monday in the late afternoon in November, there was no line to enter. Though I had been through the house before, I still got a lot out of the exhibit. It is amazing to consider that eleven people hid in these rooms for over two years. I can't imagine what that must have been like.

At the end of the exhibit there is an interactive video presentation about freedom and liberty. After a brief explanation of a number of situations surrounding freedom of speech, religion, and the press, visitors can vote on whether they agree or disagree. This feature dovetailed perfectly with the next spot on our tour of the city: the red light district.

After explaining "personal freedoms" to my niece, we walked down one street in the red light district. Let me tell you though, nothing will stop a group of rowdy men like the sight of my mother marching her daughters and niece through a side street of red lights

The Castle Augustusburg in Brühl

When a trip to Europe is a week or less, you really can't waste the first day adjusting to the time difference. It is best to re-set your watch and start seeing the sights. That's why I had plans for my Mom, sister, and niece on their first day here in Germany.

After picking them up from the airport on Sunday we had a brief pit stop at my apartment. (Sleeping may not have been on the agenda, but showering certainly was.) Then it was off to the Castle Augustusburg.
One of the most famous castles in the Bonn/Cologne area and a UNISCO World Heritage site, I had never been there before. Having visitors was the perfect excuse to get there before leaving Germany.

The castle was build from 1725 to 1768 for Clemens August, an elector and archbishop of Cologne. Using the best Rocco architects of the time, it is modeled after Versailles and was intended at a country retreat. Surrounding the castle are elaborate gardens, which are the site of outdoor concerts in the warm weather. Entry to the gardens is free.
The interior can only be visited with a guided tour and costs 5 Euros per person. If you call ahead arrangements can be made for a tour in English. Too bad I didn't know this and we had to take the tour in German. An English guidebook was given to us at the front desk. Many of the rooms are written about and we were able to follow along with the tour.

The castle incorporates just about every architectural and decorative element of the baroque era. That means a lot of glitz and glamour. I especially liked the leather wallpaper with gold leaf appliqué.

The most famous feature of the castle is the ceremonial staircase designed by architect Balthasar Neumann. The space was used a receiving hall and incorporating sculptures and lots of faux marble — which wasn't used because it was less expensive, but rather because it allowed the designers to get the exact colors they wanted. Crowning the space is a fresco ceiling by Carlo Carlone.

Schloss Augustusburg in Brühl
Schlossstrasse 6
50319 Brühl

• Open: Tuesday through Friday 09:00 AM – 12:30 PM (admission until 12:00 PM) and 1:30 – 5:00 PM (admission until 4:30 PM); Saturday, Sunday, and holidays 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM (admission until 5:00 PM)
• Telephone: +49 (0)22 32 / 440 00 or 944 31 17
• E-mail: info(at)schlossbruehl.de
  

What a Week

Months ago my Mom and sister planned to come to visit over Thanksgiving weekend. My Mom wanted to see my pregnant and help set up the nursery. My sister too thought the trip would be all about getting ready for the baby. When I found out I was going to be moving back to the states, however, their trip changed into something entirely different.

Instead of helping to get ready for the baby, we spent the week traveling around and trying to see as much as possible. That meant, a trip to the castle in Bruhl, two days in Amsterdam, the cathedral in Cologne, a Thanksgiving feast with lots of German friends, a pilgrimage to the town where my grandmother was born, a concert by one the biggest Carnival bands, and the Christmas market in Cologne, Bonn, Bad Godesburg, and Seigburg.

After dropping them off at the airport on Sunday morning, I returned to my house and took a nap. I will write proper posts about all that we did and saw in the coming days, but now I have to start packing the house for our trip back to the states. I can't believe the movers come that day after tomorrow.

Christmas Markets to Open This Weekend

I love Christmas. But I'm also don't really want to see the red and green rolled out until Thanksgiving's leftovers are wrapped in their Tupperware containers. That is I usually don't want to see Christmas before Thanksgiving. This year I'm supper excited for the early bit of holiday cheer.

I have a good reason for changing my Christmas tune. My mom, sister, and niece will be arriving on Sunday and I am excited that they'll be able to see the German Christmas Markets.
Last year I couldn't get enough of the Christmas markets. The food, the gluwine, the trinkets: It was all so cozy and holiday-esque. Last year I loved arriving at a market around dusk, warming up with a mug of spiced wine, then wandering around in the crisp air while doing my Christmas shopping. It was far, far, better then visiting the mall.

Not every market will open this weekend. Some will wait until the traditional opening day, which is the first Sunday of Advent. However, according to Google the Bonn and Cologne markets will open on the 21st of November. This year I am adding the Seigberg Market to my must-visit list. Promising mead and minstrels, the town hosts a traditional Medieval Market. This one wont open until November 29, but that will be a perfect way to end their trip.

Prague Jewish Quarter Tour

On Sunday Morning in Prague Kevin and I took a tour of Prague's Jewish quarter, known as Josefov, through Wittmann Tours. We aren't usually the type of people who take tours, but on our trip to the glass factory we met a mother and daughter from the West Coast of the U.S. who took this tour and absolutely raved about it. They said it was the best thing they during their stay.

The Spanish Synagogue

What made the tour stand out for the others? Wittmann Tours, owned and operated by Sylvie Wittmann, gives tours of Jewish sites in the Czech Republic, Poland, and Germany. In addition to giving Jewish-focused tours, Ms. Wittmann -- a native Czech Jew -- has worked to bring Central European Jews back to their Synagogues throughout Bohemia. In 1991 she founded a new Jewish community in Prague to accommodate the city's reemerging reformed Jewish population.

All of her tour guides are very knowledgeable, with backgrounds in Jewish history as well as a few Holocaust survivors. Our guide, Olga Kourová, was very well versed in Jewish history, as well as fine arts and literature. We are again lucky to have a very small group -- there were only three of us.

The Old Jewish Cemetery

The tour of the Jewish Ghetto included all sites of the Jewish Museum, the Old Jewish Cemetery, and the Old New Synagogue. These buildings are the best-preserved collection of Jewish monuments in all of Europe. I was amazed to learn that the some historians believe that the Nazis planned to build a museum about the "exterminated race" and therefore did not destroy Prague Jewish landmarks or the possessions confiscated from the temples and families as the residents were forces to into labor camps. It is because of this well-preserved collection of books, photos, and art displayed in today's Jewish Museum is one of the foremost collections in the world.

Franz Kafka Statue

Though certainly a part of the three-hour talk, the tour didn't focus only on the experience of Prague's Jewish population during the Holocaust. The city's Jews have a long history, dating back to the 13th Century. Times of acceptance were intermixed with times of discrimination.

The Prague Castle

Set on a hill overlooking the Old and New Towns, the Prague Castle dominates in the city's skyline. According to the Guinness Book of Records, this is the largest castle in the world. We admired it from a far as soon as we arrived in Prague, and on Saturday morning we set out to see it for ourselves.
Not a single structure, the castle is actually a serious of buildings surrounded by a wall. Construction began in the 9th century and it has been the seat of power for the royal families of Bohemia, the Czech bishops, and later the governments of Czeslovakia and the Czech republic. The crown jewels are houses somewhere in this complex, along with other treasures of the state.

Entrance to the castle grounds and main cathedral is free. You can walk take in the impressive size and complex wondering through the many courtyards. There are also lookout points that afford picturesque view of the city below. Surrounding the castle are gardens, which appear to be a popular place for residents to run, walk there dogs, and play with their children.
In front of one of the palaces are uniformed guards. They stand, unflinching, as tourists pose for pictures. Other guards march around the castle’s grounds. At noon the guards change position in an elaborate ceremony.

Admission tickets must be purchased to enter many of the buildings. We opted for the "short tour" package, which include entry into the Old Royal Palace, an exhibition entitled "The Story of Prague Castle," St. George's Basilica, and Golden Lane, a small street with shops and Kafka’s house.
We also purchased the accompanying audio guide. As an added benefit, visitors with the audio guide getting to skip the long line the wrapped around the outside of the cathedral. We were told that the line could last upwards of an hour.
Despite having purchased the "short tour," our trip to the castle lasted from 9:30 AM to past 1:30 PM. The audio guide has to be one of the most detailed I've ever listened to, giving lots of historical facts for the interior and exterior of each building in the complex. How else would I have known that jousting matches took place in the great hall of the old palace as a form of amusement for the ladies of the court?

Czech Crystal

When traveling to big cities, I like to spend at least half a day somewhere outside of the main part of town. This lets me get a glimpse of a bit of the countryside, go through neighborhoods where "real people" live, and see something other then what's on the beaten path. Usually I take public transportation to these out-of-the-way destination, which adds to the adventure but also increases the amount of research and time the trip requires.
Before leaving for Prague I discovered that one of the possible out-of-town attractions that Kevin and I could visit was a crystal factory. Knowing that Kevin has had his fill of castles and museums, I thought a factory tour would be something that we would both enjoy. I wasn't able to figure out how to get there by public transportation, though, so we decided to take a tour instead.

The tour package included transportation from our hotel to the Rucki Crystal Factory in the town of Nizbor, about 45 minutes outside of the city. No searching for the train station or trying to discern the schedule was necessary. Since November is low season, we were luck to have a semi-private tour. There were only two other people in the group with us. On the way through the city, our guide spoke about the points of interest that we passed and provided us with a bit of history as we traveled along the highway.
The area around Prague is world-famous for it's Bohemian cut crystal, which was first produced in the region in the early 17th century. Glasscutters from Italy and Germany traveled to Bohemia and cut the natural crystal found in the mountains of the region. In the 18th century manufactures began producing cut chalk-glass items. These products brought the Czechs fame, but they fell out of fashion by the early 19th century. Soon, however, the manufactures turned to making lead crystal. And by the middle of the 19th century, the region was again at the top of the industry.

Once we arrived at the factory we switched tour guides. The new guide, who worked for the factory, gave us a brief overview of the family that ran the business and the materials used for production. This factory makes most of its products on an order-by-order basis, which is why the name isn't as well known as other manufactures. Then she took us to see the glass being blown.
It was amazing to see the glowing masses removed from the furnace, and then blown. I kept thinking that it was like bubbles for adults. One thing that shocked and surprised me is that the glass blowers are allow to drink beer and smoke cigarettes while at work. The factory even provides the brew. Our tour guide assured us, though, that it had a very low alcohol content.

After watching the glass being blown, we saw the quality control department in action. Less than 20 percent of all glass blown makes the cut. The rejected pieces are then tossed into large bins, which are then sent back to the furnace. Nothing in the factory is wasted.

The items that are approved are then sent to the cutting room. Workers here sit at diamond-saw wheels for eight-hour shifts. Each day they work on one part of one design. Repeating the cuts over and over again.

After walking through the factory I have a whole new appreciation for cut crystal.

Prague Orientation

On Thursday afternoon we arrived in Prague. After figuring out the exchange rate (100 Czech Koruny equals about 4.50 Euro), we got ourselves some Czech Crowns, and headed to the taxi stand outside the airport. Many travel sites and guidebooks say that taxies in Prague are rip offs. But, since I didn't have time to fully research other options for how to get to the city center, we decided to take a cab anyway. The trip was 600 Koruny, which is about 25 Euros. That's still a reasonable price in my book.
After settling into our hotel, we decided to spend the afternoon getting our barrings. Later in the trip we'd discover that Prague is pretty easy to navigate. But we seem to always take the hardest, longest, or least traveled path. Even though we picked up a map at the hotel reception, we didn't ask them to show us the best way to the old town.
Instead of taking a left, which would have gone directly to a bridge across the Vltava River, we went right and rambled through a bunch of quite, residential neighborhoods before stumbling upon the main tourist center. Staying off the beaten path worked out to our advantage though. We had lunch in a local-feeling pub, which was terrific. I had goulash and Kevin had a dish that the waitress translated as "pork stump."

After lunch we found the old town we wondered it's charming, cobble stone streets. Prague is one of the few cities in Europe to have suffered from very little bombing damage during World War II since the city had no war industry. The result is that the city's buildings still have their original detail and the streets veer off with no apparent rhyme of reason.
We were lucky enough to come to the astrological clock at the top of the hour, getting to see the characters emerge from their roost. On the way back to our hotel, we head across the Charles Bridge as dusk turned to dark. With the Prague Castle a glow in the background, our first day in Prague turned out to show off a city even more beautiful then I expected.

Prego in Prague

We're leaving for the airport in a few hours. Still have to pack, but I'm not really concerned. When you only have a handful of maternity clothing, it's super easy to pick out a weekend's worth of outfits. I probably wont post anything while I'm gone, but look forward to a few trip posts next week.

One Trip Before the Baby Comes

After a small freak-out the other day that I have, "seen everything that I wanted to see," Kevin and I booked a weekend trip to Prague. I though Paris would be my last excursion sans child. But, I'm very excited that we'll fit one more city in. We leave on Thursday and return on Monday morning. I wonder if they celebrate Halloween in the Czech Republic.

Yet, I wonder if this trip will really alleviate my panic. Deep down I know that no matter how much I see or do while living abroad, I'll still come away from the experience feeling like I haven't seen everything I want to see, taste everything I want to taste, and experience the many different cultures and customs.

But, accepting that you can't see everything and taking full advantage of what's at hand is really an important lessen to learn about traveling. (And life in general.) So, I’ll be thankful for the many opportunities I’ve had in the last year and enjoy the weekend.

Hay, Why Not Stay Here in Germany

There was an article in the New York Time's travel section this week that I feel the need to share. It's about what I think should clearly be called "extreme ecotourism." I'd love to know if any of my more adventurous readers in German have ever tried it. And for my non-German readers, I think this will underscore a point that I've been making throughout the last year: that the German's are really, really green.

So, you're wondering what's the hitch, right? The "hotels" discussed in this article are not actually hotels, but farms that have open their doors to travelers. This concept is not new. Throughout Italy and France there are stories written about travelers who stay in charming farmhouse accommodations, with sheep bleeping and cows mooing just beyond the door.

In German, apparently, instead of staying in the farmhouse, guests really connect with life on the farm by sleeping in the barn. Not barns converted into guesthouse, but barns...with the sheep bleeping and cows mooing right there. And, what makes these farm-stays even more surprising is those guests don’t even have beds. Called Heuhotels, which translates to English as hay hotels, guests sleep in loft filled with the cut grasses.

This really gives a whole new meaning to hitting the hay!

A Day in Normandy

Even though my husband lived in Manhattan for years, or perhaps because of it, Kevin doesn't like to spend too much time in a big city without an escape. When a week in Paris was planned for his parent's recent visit, he had trouble imagining what we would do for so many days. He saw an endless progression of museums and monuments, museums and monuments.
To keep him sane, and to give the rest of us a chance to see another part of the country, we decided to plan a day trip. Our destination was easy to pick when looking at a map. Kevin's Grandfather served in the army during World War II and was one of the soldiers to storm the beaches of Normandy. Our outing would be to the beaches.

The D-Day beaches are almost three hours from Paris, not including city traffic. This didn't leave us much time to explore the many D-Day museums or visit the American cemetery, but it was still powerful to walk along the coast and imagine what his experience must have been like.

The sea-air worked up our appetites, and we were happy to warm up with lunch. Muscles and fries were exactly what I wanted, and I found them in a little restaurant just off the boardwalk. The day was cold and very windy, but inside was a great place to watch the choppy white-capped waves.

On the way home we set the navi to avoid the highway, and drove through the farming area inland from the coast. Though this excursion was beautiful, the sights weren't the main attraction. We went in search of Calvados.
Normandy is a major apple-producing region, and is known for its apple brandy, Calvados. It’s available from farmers throughout the region: you just need to know what to look for. Small signs on the main road announce where to turn for local products. However, this is a mission that, especially for the non-French speaking traveler, must be taken on with a sense of adventure. Sometimes, when you find your way to the farm, there is no one home. Other times, you simply can't find the farm at all.

But when you do find a farm store, you are almost always rewarded for your efforts. We were.

Greeted by one of the owners of the orchard, we were invited into the farm's tasting room. Here we were given samples of four bottles of Calvados, each produced on site and aged for different lengths of time. Side by side tasters were able to discern differences as the liquor developed. We were also invited to taste the farm's cider and Pommeau.

Some claim that Pommeau is Normandy's best-kept secret. It is unfermented apple juice, fortified with Calvados (apple brandy) and aged in a barrel. It is kind of like an apple wine, with hints of pear and vanilla that is served in place of more common dessert wine, such as port.

Moselle, Rhine, and Ahr: Wine Festivals

Fall is harvest time. Around here, that means it's time to pick the grapes. The Moselle, Rhine, and Ahr River valleys, are all within a stone's throw. In these vineyards, along with those in the neighboring Rhineland-Palatinate, over 70 percent of all German wines are produced.

Riesling is the king of German grapes, but it's not the only variety grown. Other wine wines produced in the region include Scheurebe, Ruländer, Silvaner, Gerwürztraminer, and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). Red wines, include Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Dornfelder, Portugieser and Trollinger.

Fall also means that the picturesque towns surrounding the vineyards come alive with festivals. Typically these events take place in a town's main square, and include music, pagentry and lots of food and drinks. Many towns have wine stores and cellars that are open even on Sundays this time year. Here you can taste the local wines and purchase bottles to take home. But, be sure not to miss the real delicacy at these festivals: a drink called Federweißer.

Also known as new or fresh wine, Federweißer literally translates to feather white. It is made from fermented freshly pressed grapes, known as must. Typically, Federweißer is made from harvests lesser-quality grapes. It owes its appearance, which is greenish white, to suspended yeast.

Federweißer is sold when the alcohol content reaches 4 percent. The beverage continues to ferment in the bottle as the sugars in the grapes continue break down, topping out at a 10 percent alcohol content. The bottled cannot be sealed. Instead, a permeable lid is used to allow the gasses to be released and stops the bottle from exploding.

For this reason it is hard to transport. That, compounded with the fact that it needs to be consumed within a few days of production, make this a real seasonal treat. It is only found in wine-producing areas during harvest time.

Federweißer is made from white grapes. The comparable, but less common, red grape variety is called Roter Rauscher. Both tastes light and refreshing – reminiscent of grape lemonade – and pair very well with savory foods. The local traditional compliment is Zwiebelkuchen.

Zwiebelkuchen, which translates as onion cake, is really more like an onion quiche. Made with a single, bottom yeast crust, the filling consists of steamed onions, diced bacon, cream, and sometimes caraway seeds.

The Potty Post

This post has been a long time in the making. For the last year I have encountered many bathrooms worthy of a photograph. More often than not I don't have my camera with me on these visits, but since being a tourist is my current occupation, I've had it with me enough to document a few of the most interesting restrooms that I've found.

And so, without further ado, here is my collection of favorite restrooms...

The bathrooms in Germany are generally super clean -- even the public ones on the autobahn. Here's a video of how some of these rest areas stay so fresh with self-cleaning toilets.


Though you hear stories about a hole in the ground, I've only seen one of these "toilets" since we moved here last October.

The French have so much style. Here, even the toilet is fancy.
In Ghent, Kevin and I saw these pods and I had no idea what they were at first.
Then, after we figured it out, I asked Kevin to demo it for the picture. He never actually used this pod, though we saw lots of men who took advantage of them during street festival we were attending.
You'd never believe that this is the bathroom for a very pleasant creperie in Paris. Entering the restroom was like going into a whole different world.


This picture documents the craziest sink I've seen.