Wurst of the Week - 9/29

Austrian sausages can hold their own again German wurst. At the wedding I attended this weekend, small-ish sausages were served with mustard as an hors d'œuvre. Let me tell you, they put typical cocktail weenies to shame.

Au Revoir

The car still has to be packed and the navi needs the proper address, but that's about all that needs to be done before we get on the road for our trip to Paris.

I've printed out lots of suggestions about where and what to eat from David Lebovitz's Paris blog. I also got recommendations from my French friends, so I think we're all set for a week of good eating.

The rest of the family apparently wants to do some other stuff too. I heard them talking about some sort of tower, a big museum, and famous church. But, for me, it's all about the food.

I'm bringing my computer and may write a post or two from the road, but I wont make any promises. I may be too busy digesting.

German History Museum

This afternoon I visited the museum of contemporary German history in Bonn, called the Haus der Geschichte. It is one of five museums located along a single section of Bonn known as Museum Mile. One of the most visited tourist attractions in all of Germany, the Museum Mile includes another German history museum as well as international art museum, a German art museum, and natural history museum.

Although I've lived in Bonn for a year (almost) to the day, this was my first trip to any of Museum Mile's attractions. What was I thinking? The museum was great. I should have been there months ago.

First off, though it may seem petty (or cheap), but I love a free museum. Not that I mind paying an admission fee -- I certainly understand the museums are often under funded and need all the help they can get -- but without a fee the pressure is off to see everything. I can instead take in as much as I want, and can come back as often as I want.

Next, even though all of the text within the museum is in German, you can request and English guide from the information desk. The guide can be purchased for six Euros, or you can borrow the desk copy simply by leaving an identification card as a deposit. The guide provided translations of all of the plaques throughout the exhibits.

The museum itself was really interesting. Covering contemporary history, it started with the end of the Second World War. From there it covered the rebuilding of the nation through the destruction of the Berlin Wall and German reunification. The exhibits included photos, video clips, and various ephemera.

I am simultaneously impressed and saddened by the German people's attempt to reconcile their current role in the world with the nation's Nazi past. Whenever the topic of German identity, nationhood, and patriotism is addressed, it seems to me as though the people are trying very hard to remember what happened. Maybe they feel that education is the best way to avoid having similar thought from re-developing, or perhaps it is a kind a penance that they feel they cannot move away from.

It is interesting though, to remember the legacy that this generation is shaping for the future. They have built a strong economy without neglecting social responsibility. Also, German is a one of the greenest nations in the world.

Come Join Me in Germany

Hating your job? Looking for a change of pace? Well, maybe a move to Germany is exactly what the doctor ordered. And the best part is, I could be your neighbor.

At IFOAM, the place where I have been volunteering there are two openings: the Executive Director or the Communications Manager. Go to their Website for more information. It's a fun place to work with good people supporting a good cause. If it weren’t for the fact that my world is going to change completely in January I'd apply for the communications job myself.

With my help, your move could be super easy. I already figured out the hard stuff. I know, for example, that you'll have to purchase all of your light fixtures and hire an electrician to install them. I could help you do that. And, I know where you can go to purchase a wardrobe. I know lots of food-related vocabulary, and could help you navigate through the grocery store. I even know where to find the English movie schedule.

So, what do you say? Why not become my neighbor?

Guests Arrive

This morning Kevin and I went to the airport in Frankfurt to pick up his parents. They are visiting for a few weeks, which means:

a. A fresh supply of goodies from the states. (Chocolate chips and baking powder for me; running shoes for Kevin.)
b. A road trip. (We're going to Paris on Saturday; expect lots of great food and travel posts from that journey. I can already taste the duck confit already.)
c. I get to be a tourist in my own town.

No matter where I've lived I always enjoying showing where I live to out-of-town guests. You really get a different sense of where you live when you are pointing out all of your favorite places, giving advice on what to avoid, and sharing your owns secrete tips. (Like, for example, you don't have to wait for this light if you walk to the next block and use the cross walk.)

This afternoon I took Kevin's parents on the grand tour d'Bad Godesburg. That included a trip to Mr. Baker, Woolworth’s (yes, that Woolworth’s, which is just like you remember), the park, the grocery store, and the butcher.

The Hills Are Alive Take 2

While in Austria I really wanted to get to a higher altitude on foot. In the small amount of unscheduled time during this weekend's festivities, Kevin and I headed out the door of our hotel and up into the surrounding mountains. The walk was relatively easy, given that it was along a farm road. But after an hour or so of walking up hill I certainly felt like I was out getting my exercise.

Even though the day was a bit overcast, the views were spectacular. The fresh air felt great, and the cows, sheep, and occasional farmer certainly left me feeling like Maria von Trapp. Is it any wonder then that I could resist twirling a time or two?

Fest Tracht: Dirndles and Lederhosen

This weekend Kevin and I had the honor of attending the wedding of one of Kevin's co-workers. This was the first European wedding that I've been invited to, and I was excited to see how it differs from a wedding in the U.S.

The wedding was held in Goldegg, Austria. The town is located about 60 kilometers (just under 40 miles) outside of Salzburg, Austria. Nestled in the Hohe Tauern, the highest in the Austrian Alps, it is a popular ski destination. It is also home to several wellness centers and where the bride's family has owned a weekend home for generations.

The event’s setting was truly idyllic: a medieval church overlooking a lake in the tiny town center followed by a cocktail reception at the adjoining castle. But, what made the event a true highlight of my European experience was the attire.

The invitation requested that guests wear "Fest Tracht," traditional Austrian (and Bavarian) dress. That meant dirndls for the women and lederhosen or steireranzug for the men. For those of you who don't know what these outfits are, picture Oktoberfest or the Sound of Music. I felt like I stepped out of the 21st century and into a timeless era where everyone was dressed movie-set perfect.

Tracht originally was the everyday clothing of rural people in Bavaria and the Alps. Made from cotton, wool, leather, and loden (a water-resistant material made from sheep's wool) tracht became popular "sportswear" for Austrian and Bavarians in the 19th century. The clothing is well suited for hunting and other outdoor pursuits. Today, tracht is still popular dress for weddings and other social and cultural events.

Dirndls consist of full skirts with an apron, white blouses, and a tight-fitting bodice. It's too bad women can't wear these ensembles ever day because every woman - old and young, fat and thin - looks good in a dirndl. They accentuate your chest and make your waist nice and skinny.

The men's outfits were equally impressive. Some men wore lederhosen, which literally translates as leather pants. They are full, knee-length or short trousers usually made from leather. The shorts are worn with wool socks. Some also include suspenders and ornate brackets going across the man's chest. The Steireranzug consisted mostly of long pants made of loden in grayish green. The jackets vary by region, but most of the men at this wedding had jackets with collars that stood up and a half belt that buttoned in the back.

Kevin and I received a "pass" from the bride and groom, and were told that it was okay to wear normal formal dress instead. Having been told that these outfits are rather expensive to purchase — a nice quality outfit can cost upward of several hundred Euros — and not knowing if a maternity dirndl is even an option, I figured that we would not be the only guests to forgo the tracht.

I was surprised that we — in a dark suit and party dress — were in the minority by a long shot. Out of the nearly 200 people at the wedding, I'd say over three quarters of the guests were dressed traditionally. When the dancing started and the floor was filled with people in their tracht doing a waltz it was really a site to behold.

Salzburg Bound

No time for a proper post this morning . . . I have to pack and get on the road. Expect to see plenty of lederhosen on Monday.

Back on the Road

Even though it feels like I just got home from Greece, I'm off again this weekend. This time I'm headed to the mountains outside of Salzburg, Austria for a wedding.

Kevin and I visited Salzburg over Christmas and it was beautiful -- but really cold. Despite the recent blast of Siberian air over Bonn (that's the truth, there is a cold front bring air from Siberia) I don't expect the same frigid temperatures this weekend.

Though cities are often travel destinations, I love weekends planned to explore a small town in the country. I am excited to see what the countryside looks like. Our hotel is on a lake surrounded by the Alps. Maybe I'll feel up to a hike. I certainly wont rule out the possibility of more Sound-of-Music running and twirling antics.

4-Wheelin' in Santorini

After a morning shifting between a deck chair and the pool, Kevin and I needed to do a little exploring in the afternoon. It was way too hot to go for a serious hike, which is what going anywhere on foot from Oia would require. Besides, my feet were still aching from Athens. So, we decided to rent an ATV.*

At first we tried to rent a scooter, but as Americans in Greece you need to have an international license. (Ironically, Kevin and I both have international licenses, but we left them in Germany.) We could, however, rent a 4-wheeler no problem.

The ATV cost us 40 Euros for 24 hours. (Scooters are as little as 15 Euros.) At first I was a nervous Nelly on the back, but soon enough I was loving it! It was quite comfortable and had enough power to get us up a hill.

Still, we did try to steer clear of the main road, which was frequented by huge tour buses, opting instead to ride along the beach. The drive was beautiful and the cool breezes were super refreshing.

The first day with the ATV we went to the Ammoudi for a snack and the sunset. Though Ammoudi appears to be a town on maps of the island, upon arrival it appeared to be little more then a harbor with a string of restaurants, some boats, and a great view of the setting sun. That, however, was perfect. We saw the most amazing sunset of our trip.

The second day with the ATV we headed out early-ish to find a beach. Though the guidebooks suggested the red and black beaches around Perissa, we didn't want to spend the hour on the quad to get there. Instead we discovered a beach on the east side of the island outside Fira. I can't imagine a better place on the island.

The beach felt like a private cove, with clear blue water and black rocks contoured to our backs. I loved the super salty water, which allowed us to float easily. And the calm sea meant that we could stay there for hours.

* ATV = All terrain vehicle

Oia, Santorini: The Edge of the World

Here's a tip: If you are planning to visit the Greek Islands, make your travel arrangements in advance. I learned this piece of advice the hard way.

Before leaving for Greece I checked out the ferry schedule from Athens to Santorini, but only to make sure that there were ferries traveling between these two locations and that the trip didn't take a million hours. I've taken plenty of ferries in my day, and I've never booked the trip more then a day in advance.

When I tried to book a ferry on the second morning of my stay, I discovered that in Greece the rules are different. All of the morning's high-speed ferries were booked, the late-afternoon high-speed ferry only ran on Thursdays during the high season (which officially ended the week before I arrived), and the only available boat took over 13 hours.

I knew Kevin wouldn't be a happy if I told him that we were spending the better part of the night on a boat, so I decided to book a flight. As it turns out, there was an affordable and available flight that fit perfectly into our timetable. By 6:30 P.M. we were watching the sun set in Oia.

On the western end of Santorini, Oia is hands-down one of the most beautiful places I've ever been in my life. The town is perched on cliffs overlooking the Aegean Sea. Our hotel, which promoted itself as "traditional rooms," was a series of rooms with terraces connected by what seemed to be a million steps.

The room itself was a little cave carved out of the side of the hill. Though the room was very basic – minimally furnished and without a television, phone, or even clock - it was absolutely perfect. The best part was our own private deck on the roof. Kevin and I happily spent plenty of time up there simply watching the moon reflect on the water, the boats come and go, and the donkeys climbing the steep path from harbor to the town.

My Mediterranean Diet

Interested in finding out more about the food in Greece? Check out my post about the great Greek eats on The Apron Caper.

Wurst of the Week - 9/15

I didn’t see many sausages in Greece, though this one caught my eye. Who really wants a hot dog, frozen on a bun with all the fixing’s in one, pre-packaged container?

Athens Walking Tour

On my first day in Athens I decided to check out the sites.

Before leaving, I read the New York Times "36 Hours in Athens" article, which left three hours for visiting "most important historical sites." The articled claimed that in the span of two-and-a-half miles you could visit the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora, the Theater of Dionysus, the Kerameikos Cemetery, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, and the Roman Forum.

Now, I'm not sure if the author of this article...

A. Visited only of few of these sites
B. Got to the entrance of each ruin, but didn't go in
C. Is a super fast walker

I purchased a 12 Euro ticket, which allowed entry into twelve historic sites. I think I only made it to eight of them. My tour took me over five hours. Yes, it's true that this included my walk from the hotel. But my hotel was less then 15 minutes from the Temple of Olympian Zeus on foot.

Perhaps, though the problem was that all day long I found myself entering the monuments through what seemed to be the back door. I had a map that listed all of the monuments, but nothing official was provided when I purchased my ticket. I think a map of the sites would have been a great help.

This back-door phenomenon was most amusing when I got to the Acropolis. I visited the Theater of Dionysus and Theater of Herod Atticus first. That meant that I came up to the Acropolis by snaking my way around the backside of the hill. When I got to the top I was shocked to find hundreds — literally — of tourist pouring into the site along with me. Apparently I was entering at exactly the same time as everyone from the Carnival Cruise Line's Mediterranean, Greece, and Turkey trip's day in Athens.

Aside from the crowds though, the day was very impressive. It's amazing when you consider that the temples that I was walking around are same places were ancient Greeks came to worship, celebrate, and take refuge.

By the end of the day my Grecian-style sandals were covered with a powdery white dust and my dogs were barking. But I was so thankful for the opportunity to see what I saw.

Off to Greece

I leave for Greece bright and early this morning, so there is no time for a regular post. Since I'm not checking any luggage, there is no room for the laptop in my already-over-the-limit backpack. I'll take lots of photos and be back on Monday with lots to write about.

Unkel Winefest

On Sunday Kevin and I took a boat from Bad Godesburg to the town of Unkel for its annual wine and homeland festival. The event was organized by the Colloquium Humanum, an organization in Bonn that promotes culture events, particularly where these events are able to encourage interactions between Germans and people of different cultures. IFOAM, the organization that I am doing volunteer work for, received an invitation and I was very happy to take them up the offer.

On the west bank of the Rhine, the town of Unkel is approximately 20 miles south of Bonn. Though Rieslings are the most popular wines produced in the region, Unkle is known for its red wines. It is the farthest north red wine grapes are grown, and the Cathedral in Cologne once owned the town’s vineyards.

The boat left from Bad Godesburg and arrived in Unkel a few hours later. When the boat docked, we were met by a brass band. The town's officials greeted us, and then we were taken on a tour of the town.

After the tour, everyone made their way back to the waterfront for one of the day's highlights -- the arrival of the Wine Queen on her boat rowed by men from the town decked out in traditional costumes. Her arrival was followed by a parade, and then we were free to wander through the main square of the festival.

Like every good German festival there was plenty to eat and drink. Bratwurst, potato pancakes, pretzels...they all could be found along with some specialties of the region. At the wine festivals along the Rhine, the drink of choice is Federweisser.

The color of lemonade, with a little fizz, Federweisser is basically fermented, freshly pressed grape juice. It is light, and sweet, and surprisingly refreshing. The alcohol content starts at 4 percent when is it first bottled, and increases a bit over time. Federweisser is special because it is only available locally and in the fall.

The perfect compliment to the Federweisser is zwiebelkuchen. A hearty onion cake, it is similar to a quiche, with less crust, less egg, and a bit of speck. It's a little sweet and a little savory, very delicious, and surprisingly filling. After all that I ate on Sunday afternoon, I hardly had room for a light salad on Sunday night.

Beer School on Hiatus

I've decided to take a break for writing my beer school posts. Kevin hasn't been trying a lot of new beers lately. He's lost his best drinking buddy: Me.

That's right. For five months now I haven't has a drop of brew. The reason is because I'm pregnant.

Our search for the best beer has been replaced with trying to find a crib (they are all so low), testing strollers (are four wheels or three wheels better), and wondering how easy it will be to find a birthing class in English speaking (I think it's not going to happen).

Over the next few months, I'll still write about exceptional beers that Kevin comes across in our travels, but I can't promise a weekly post. Also, you'll probably discover more posts about how we navigate our way through pregnancy "auf Deutch."

Need Some Greek Tips

On Tuesday of next week I am headed to Greece.

The plan is: stay in Athens until Thursday and then take a ferry to Santorini. The problem is: I ordered a travel guide on Amazon.de, but it hasn't arrived yet.

So, I need your help. If anyone out there has been to Greece, I'd love to know what's on your must-see list.

So far here are my plans in Athens:

• Visit the Acropolis temples (the Parthenon, Temple of Athena Nike, and Erechtheum)
• Walk around the Plaka and Anafiotika neighborhoods
  
• Have dinner or a drink in the Gazi district (a.k.a. the old gasworks district, which is supposed to be hip, up-and-coming neighborhood)
  

In Santorini, my plans are a little more low-key. There they include:

• Swimming
• Watching the sunset from Oia
  

So Angry, So Angry

What's with the Republicans? I really can't understand McCain's choice for VP. Here are just a couple of things that annoy me about Sarah Palin:

• I know more about her family (her husband's a champion snow machine racer) then I do about her policies
• How she tried to claim that Obama is inexperienced, while she's a "Washington outsider"
• Her comment about hockey Moms and pit-bull during her speak last night (What's the difference between a hockey mom and a pit-bull? Lipstick. . . Seriously, is that the kind of joke that Biden would have made)
• The way she mocked Obama like a middle school girl (What's he gonna do after he finishes parting the water and healing the world?)
• She claims to have resisted money from Washington, yet she hired a lobbies for her city of just over 5,000 and then made frequent trip to Washington as governor
• As mayor she talked to the town librarian about banning books (admittedly, she never followed through) but even still the librarian was later fired

Quiet Hours

In most neighborhoods in Germany there are official quite hours. Sure, it's nice to life free of excessive noise pollution. But still, these rules are a little over the top for my individual-rights loving, my-home-is-my-castle believing American.

The official quiet hours in Bonn are between 1:00 and 3:00 PM and after 10:00 PM daily. Though it is not listed on the town's guide for renters, it is also generally accepted that quite hours are extended to all day Sunday and on German holidays. During these times, residents may not use lawn mowers, operate power equipment, play loud music with opened windows, wash their cars, or let children play outside unattended.

I have to admit, I've vacuumed on a Sunday, but I always feel surprisingly guilty for doing it.

Other regions in Germany have even stricter laws. The State of Hesse for example, has quiet hours from 8:00 PM in the fall and winter and 9:00 PM in spring and summer to 7:00 AM. What's more, there you're not allowed to use a lawn mower between 7:00 and 9:00 AM or after 5:00 PM! According to these rules, when can a working person care for their yards? Saturdays, and then they have to split their time with any shopping that needs to get done since everything is closed on Sundays.

Despite these crazy regulations, I have been woken up every day this week with construction noise in my apartment building's garden! I guess the stroke of 7:00 is officially okay in these parts.

A Day Without a Connection

Today's post comes super late because my Internet connection was down for most of the day.

I just returned from a barbeque on my neighbor's wonderful terrace. It's a fabulous night here in Bonn, and I was so happy be able to sit outside with good food and good company. Already the sun is setting so much earlier then it did all summer. Since I don't know how much longer the warm weather will last I'm going to take advantage of it whenever I can!

Pleasantly Surprise by Düsseldorf

Before this weekend, I'd been to Düsseldorf once. But only to the airport so it doesn't really count. Kevin's been a bunch of times. His company has an office there so all of his visits were for meetings. Quick in-and-out trips that left no time to go anywhere outside of the corporate office parks.

Rick Steves, with his "I've edited the world into only what's worth seeing" attitude doesn't mention Düsseldorf in his German and Austria guide. My other guidebooks don't write overly glowing reviews of the city either.

Taking all of this into account, it's not surprising that even though it’s only a little over an hour from my house by car, I had never visited Düsseldorf before.

This weekend all that changed. I had found a few shops online that I though looked rather nice. We were home this weekend without any huge plans, so I though Saturday would be a nice day for an outing to Düsseldorf.

Düsseldorf is, after all, one of Germany's wealthiest cities. It's home to a number of well-respected museums and cultural venues. It is also renown for its rowdy nightlife. With these credentials I thought it was worth at least and afternoon.

What a pleasant surprise. We started by walking along Hohe Strasse, which has a bunch of boutiques and antique stores. Then, we wondered some more around the mostly pedestrian-only old town (Altstradt). Filled with plenty of shopping, a huge market that left me bummed that I’d already loaded up on fruit and veggies in the morning, pleasant outdoor cafes, and tree-lined streets it was a wonderful way to while away a lovely late summer day.