Great White

It started about a week ago. Everywhere I went I noticed white asparagus for sale. Apparently it’s Spargelzeit in Germany, which literally translates to "asparagus time." The fact that this produce is revered enough to be bestowed with an entire season should give you an idea about how German’s feel about the vegetable.

White asparagus comes from the same plants that produce green asparagus, but the stalks are carefully covered with dirt as they grow, thus stopping the production of chlorophyll. To protect the valuable crop, fields are often covered with plastic, which makes for a strange-looking landscape.

Because of the labor required to keep the stalks white, the albino version of the vegetable demands a premium price. I've seem it going for as much as €12 per kilo, which at an exchange rate of 1.59 is close to $10 per pound. But devotees claim that the white variety is milder than the green version, though it also reputed to be more bitter.

On Saturday, after driving home from an ill-fated trip to Linz in search of Linzer Tarts,* Kevin and I spotted a farm stand selling nothing but white asparagus. We stopped, picked up a bundle, and decided to see for ourselves what all the fuss is about. That night I steamed it and served it with lemon vinaigrette. It was quite tasty and a nice accompaniment for red snapper and leek stuffing baked in parchment.

* Linzer Tarts come from Linz, Austria, not Linz am Rhine, Germany. I discovered this point of fact just before heading out the door, but decided to ignore it. I figured that if I owned a bakery in Linz, I’d certainly sell the cookies. The shop owners didn't agree with my irony and I came home empty handed.

A Local Place

Sometimes you don't realize that you are missing something until you find it. Since moving to Bonn I've eaten a number of restaurants, almost always pleasantly surprised with the food. But there was always something missing . . . . The food was good, but too fancy and/or expensive to visit regularly, too heavy to eat often, or the atmosphere wasn't right. Every time I want to go out I find myself wondering were.

Last night we decided to Kratz in Südstrat (Lennéstraße 61), the southern part of Bonn. With no more then 15 tables and space to sit at the bar, the restaurant feels cozy and intimate. Stark white walls decorated with a few black and white photos and black tables make the space feel elegant but not fussy. The deep black leather banquette, adorned with aqua and sea-foam-green pillows, makes it the kind of place where you can settle in. (The couple at the table across from us sat together on the banquet after finishing their coffee to perused a magazine.)

The mainly Italian menu offers a selection of pizzas, pastas, grilled meats, and salads. There is also an Indian influence making an appearance in a few curry dishes and a selection of crapes. We started with a salad with sautéed mushrooms, eggplant, and tomato dressed with honey balsamic vinaigrette, which was great. Kevin had pizza with mushrooms and Gouda cheese. I had basil and tomato pasta with stake.

The service was friendly and the bill was under €30. We both walked out saying we'd come back again.

New Blog Feature: Travel Guides

I am a very lucky girl. I know this. I'm extremely grateful for the chance to live in Europe and want to make the most of this experience. To help me remember what I've seen and done, I've created a notebook to archive all of the information that I've pick up alone the way. Here's where I've been storing cards from restaurants I've liked, hotel addresses, museum brochures, and other bits of tourist information.

But, what good is that notebook if the information is only sitting on a self in my office/guest room? That's why I am creating a new feature on the blog – a travel guide. (You can also find them by clicking "Travel Guides" under the labels side navigation.)

Enjoy!

Anchovies: My Dish on Little Fish

For years I was one of the many people who claimed not to like anchovies. Though I am not sure that I ever tried them as a kid, I remembered the chagrin caused when my grandmother requested them on her pizza. All of the grandchildren claimed that these tiny fish ruined even the half of the pizza without anchovies.

Then while taking classes at the Natural Gourmet I made a Pissaladière, which is a Provençal pizza-like tart topped with onions, olives, and anchovies. I figured that if I made it, I'd have to at least give it a try. The anchovies were nothing like I remember them. They were salty, yes, but also delicious with a deep – but not overpowering – fishy taste.

I wish I could say that I was hooked from that point on, but somehow I forgot about anchovies again. Then, a few years ago, I began to notice anchovy paste in recipes. It didn’t take long to realize that anchovies or anchovy paste (which is made from ground anchovies, vinagar, salt, and sugar) is in many more dishes then I ever suspected. Caesar salads, Worcestershire sauce, and green goddess dressing all include anchovies. Since then anchovy paste is a staple in my pantry.

I have yet to find anchovy paste in Germany though. I purchased sardine paste and have been using it in sauces, but it doesn't have the salty flavor I want. In Portugal last month I found a few bottles of anchovy fillets to bring home. Lately I’ve been chopping them finely and mixing them into my dishes. I think they may soon replace sherry as my new favorite ingredient.

It's Raining, It's Snowing

On March 13 it started to rain. It has rained or snowed or hailed everyday since. Yesterday I checked the 10-day forecast on weather.com. What’s predicted? More rain, more snow, and more clouds.

Upon reading this dismal news, I knew that I needed to take some action. Even though I can’t impact the skies, I could make a dinner that reflected the season for which I’m waiting instead of the one I’m stuck in. So, last night I made pasta primavera with spring veggies. Even though it didn't affect the skies one iota, a bowl of penne with tons of asparagus, mushrooms, and Parmesan certainly made me happy.

Cooking Up a Storm

Over the last two weeks I’ve written mainly travel posts. While my parents were visiting we saw a lot of things that I wanted to share. But I also cooked quite a bit.

Some of the highlights include:
• Turkey cutlets with caper pan sauce and spaetzle (German-style egg noodles)
• Pizzas – one with caramelized onions, mozzarella, black olives, and anchovies; one with red sauce, mozzarella, and mushrooms
• Roasted turkey breast with Riesling gravy, roasted veggies, and sautéed kohlrabi
• Salad with pear vinaigrette
• Frittatas with Portuguese sausage, red pepper, three cheeses, and capers

Turkey Cutlets With Caper Pan Sauce

In German supermarkets schnitzel cuts (thin pieces of turkey, beef, veal, or pork) are common. I love the turkey schnitzel for this dish since it cooks in a flash. If you can’t find schnitzel cuts, turkey or chicken breast filets pounded thin will also work.

• Four turkey cutlets
• ½ cup flour
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 small onion finely diced
• ½ tablespoon anchovy paste
• ¼ cup sherry
• ½ cup chicken stock
• ½ tablespoon butter
• 2 tablespoons capers
• Salt and pepper

Lightly coat turkey cutlets in flour. Cook turkey in olive oil in a hot sauté pan on one side until it releases easily from the pan and is lightly browned, approximately three minuets. Cook on the second side for another two minutes. Remove cutlets from the pan and set aside.

Add onions and cook until translucent. Mix in anchovy paste then deglaze the pan with the sherry, scraping all of the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. When the sherry is almost evaporated, add the chicken stock. Bring stock to a boil, then lower the heat and allow the stock to reduce by half. Pour any juice that has collected on the plate with the turkey into the pan. Whisk in butter and then add the capers. Pour sauce over the cutlets and serve.

Pizza

Dough
I doubled a pizza dough recipe from Epicurious. I don’t have a food processor in Germany, so I made it all by hand and it was super easy. I spread the dough on a cookie sheet and made a rectangular pizza. Also, to make the crust crisp on the bottom I first cooked the crust in a hot oven (about 400 degrees) until the top turned lightly golden. Then I remove the pizza, add the topping and cooked until the cheese melted.

Caramelized Onion Pizza
• 5 onions cut in half, then thinly sliced from root to top
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon mustard
• ½ cup grated mozzarella
• 32 anchovy filets
• 16 black olives, pit removed and cut in half

Cook onions in oil over a low heat in a medium-sized sauté pan until they are a rich, bark brown, aproximely 30 minutes.

Pre-bake the pizza crust as described above. Spread mustard over the top of the pizza dough. Evenly cover with cheese, then onions. Make “Xs” with two anchovy fillets. (My pan allows for four Xs across, three deep.) Place half and olive on either of each X. Bake until the cheese is melted and lightly browned.

Mushroom Pizza
• 1 cup pizza sauce
• 1 ½ cup shredded mozerella
• 10 mushrooms, sliced

Pre-bake the pizza crust as described above. Spread sauce over the top of the pizza dough. Evenly cover with cheese. Scatter with mushrooms. Bake until the cheese is melted and lightly browned.

Pizza Sauce
By slowly reducing the liquid, you get a lot of flavor and a sauce that is not too wet, which will protect the crispness of the crust.

• 1 onion finely diced
• ½ tablespoon olive oil
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons red wine
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• ½ teaspoon dried oregano
• ½ teaspoon dried basil
• 2 cups pureed tomatoes

In a medium sized, heavy bottomed pot sauté the onion in olive oil until translucent, about three minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Add red wine and cook until almost comely evaporated. Add tomato paste and dried herbs and cook for another minute. Pour in tomato puree. Reduce heat to low and simmer until the sauce has reduced by half.

Pear Vinaigrette

I used an emulsion blender to make this vinaigrette. If you don't have one, a food processor or blender will also work.

1 pear, pealed and core removed
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil

Puree the pear in a bowl using an emulsion blender. Add vinegar, salt, and pepper. With the blender running slowly pour in the olive oil.

Warning: This Post Is Not for Children

My first Easter in Germany has come and gone. It's not exactly like Easter in the states. Here’s how:
• Despite my five-year-old niece's assurances, there were no jelly beans; the bunny found two bags of candies that looked like jelly beans, but they were hard candies with a liquid center
• In the states, Easter is one day; in Germany things are closed on Friday, Sunday, and Monday
• In the U.S. ham is the center piece of the holiday table; in Germany they service rabbit!*

* I don't know what real Germans eat on Easter Sunday. We had dinner at Bastei, a restaurant on the Rhine. Before heading out we joked that they may have rabbit on the menu. I couldn't believe they really did.

Wurst of the Week - 3/23

This is Fleischkäse, which translates to “meat cheese." For a change, I actually ate this week’s wurst. It was kind of like a thick, warm slab of bologna.

No More Wine-ing

On Saturday we headed through the Eiffel Mountains to the west of Bonn to the Mosel River Valley. Heralded as home to some of the world’s best Rieslings, the charm missing from the northern part of the Rhine is visible here in spades.

We stopped in Cochem, a touristy but charming town up river from Koblanz, and then drove along the river. Craning our necks (and happy that the car has a moon roof) we ogled over the scale of the vineyards. Planted on the hills that are 45 to 65 degrees vertical, Europe’s steepest vineyard is located in this valley. We were fascinated by the small tracks with roller-coaster-like cars to help the farmers tend to their vines.

Rhineland Highs and Lows

My Mom wanted to take a cruise on the Rhine. She took one on her last trip to Germany six years ago and remembers it as one of her favorite parts of the vacation. I didn't think we'd be able to take one on this trip since the boats stop running for the winter. Lucky for us yesterday was the first day of the season.

The boat that we took departed from Bad Godesburg and traveled to the town of Linz. According to those in the know, this is not the most beautiful part of the river, but it was still impressive and interesting for Kevin and I to see the towns near us from the water.

After getting back we had a picnic in the car. The original plan was to eat and then take the car ferry across to Königswinter. But Kevin "tossed" his salad between the car seats, and we had to make a pit stop at the car wash to vacuum up the tuna first. Instead we drove across the bridge.

In Königswinter we rode the Drachenfelsbahn – the oldest cog railroad in Germany – to the Drachenfels (Dragon Rock) at the top of one of the peaks in the Siebengebirge mountains. Here we got an impressive view of the local Rhine river valley from one of the highest points in the area.

When You're Not a Tourist

One of my favorite aspects of traveling is eating things that I wouldn't eat in my normal life. The tuna pâté in Lisbon, the lamb pie in Victoria, the wild boar in Tuscany, these were all wonderful surprises. Other times things that I know that I don't like – mayonnaise, yogurt, all other pâté – are hiding in unexpected places and lurking on the underside of a piece of bread.

One of the nice things about living somewhere is that you slowly get to know what to expect and how to avoid items on your do-not-eat list.

The fact that I live in Germany and my father is just a tourist here became abundantly clear yesterday. Butter is to my father what mayo is to me. He can't stand the stuff. How disappointed was he to discover that almost every sandwich in Germany comes lathered with butter on both sides of the bread?

Travel Guide Table of Contents

Austria
• Ruette
• Salzburg
Belgium
• Brussels
England
• London
Germany
• Baveria
• Bonn
• Cologne (Köln)

Austria Travel Guide

Note about driving to Austria: You need to purchase a driving pass to display on your windshield. The passes are available at most gas stations near the boarder. A pass costs €7.70 and is valid for 10 days.

Reutte
A small town located near the German boarder in Bavaria. It's a good place to spend the night while visited Neuschwanstein.

Accommodations

• Alpenhotel Erberg, Planseestrasse 50, 05672/71912. Plain, but comfortable, rooms with great views. Hiking and running trails near by. Really good food in the cozy restaurant. (See Oasis in the Snow, my post from December 26, 2007.)
  

Attractions

• See Schloss Neuschwanstein in Bavaria.
  
• For additional information about this town visit the region's English language tourist site.

Salzburg
Both Motzart and the Von Trapp Family called Salzburg home so this a very musical city. But, the picturesque winding streets ending in charming squares make this a must-see stop for even those who can't stand The Sound of Music.

Accommodations

• Hotel Stein, Giselakai 3-5 A. +43 662 8743460. I would stay if I wasn't trying to maintain my travel budget.
• Belmondo Hotel, St Julien Strasse 7. The hotel is a 10-minute walk from the center of the city, but I wouldn't stay here again. The staff was rude and it wasn't as clean as I'd like.

Attractions

• Mozart Dinner Concert. Not the best food and quite touristy (everyone at our table was from the U.S.) but a good way to experience opera in Salzburg if you're with someone who's not willing to sit through an entire concert.
  
• There are many concerts in Salzburg all the time. For information , visit the Salzburger Concert Web site.
  
• Salzburg Dom. The main cathedral in Salzburg is worth a visit. Since we were there on Christmas Eve we attended midnight mass. The music was AMAZING!
• Sound of Music Tour. Rick Steves, surprisingliy, gives this tour a great review. Kevin would have killed me if we spent Christmas Day on a bus full of American tourists singing "Doe a Deer" though. I were in Slazburg with my sister we'd surely indulge in this tour.
  

Restaurants

• M32. Mönchsberg 0662/841000. Restaurant at the modern art museum overlooking the city. This restaurant was closed when I visited Salzburg (Christmas Eve and Christmas Day). I am including it in my guide because it was highly recommended by an Austrian friend who has spent a great deal of time in Salzbug.
  
• The Steinterrace. Giselakai 3-5 A. +43 662 8743460. This is the rooftop bar at the Stein Hotel.
• Carpe Diem Finger Food. Getreidegasse 50. +43 (0)662 848800. Dinks and snakes. All of the the food comes in cones., hence the name.
  

Belgium Travel Guide

Brussels
Before heading to Brussels, a number of Germans asked me why I was going, saying that it wasn't the best city to visit. I'm glad I didn't listen to them. I spent a great day eating, window-shopping, and wondering around.

Attractions
Musee Bruxellois de la Gueuze, Cantillon Brewery, Rue Gheude 56, Tel. 00 32 2 521 49 28. Admission 3.50. The nondescript wooden garage door gives little away about what's inside. The reasonable entry fee to this operational brewery allows you to take a self-guided tour, replete with a detail brochure, and taste two of the lambic beer brewed here. For any one interested in beer, brewing, factories, traditional production methods, or "old stuff" this is a must-see attraction. (See Beer, Beer, Beer.)

Restaurants
The cobbled streets between the Grand Place and the Saint Hubbert Royal Galleries are lined with tons of restaurants – all competing for your business with grandiose seafood displays and hawkers trying to get you to come in. Though I generally don't like to eat in this type of tourist-laden neighborhood, I decided to give this area a try since to sculptural mounds of fresh fish, mussels, scallops, clams, and lobster looked so delicious. I made my selection by going to a place that looked cozy, busy, and didn't pressure me to come in.

• La Cotelette, Rue des Bouchers 300, tel. 02-512 59 19. Our meal was a little price, but we walked away happily filled to the gills with great mussels and beautiful paella chocked filled with lobster, shrimps, scallops, clams, mussels, and white fist. (See Mussels in Brussels.)
• La Maison des Crepes, Rue du Midi 18, tel. 0475 95 73 68. In a town known for its chocolate, I was surprised the it was a little difficult to find a place for dessert. Once spotted though, La Maison des Crepes was worth the hunt. A small coffee shop with a local feel, they offered good coffee and a standard, but tasty selection sweet crepes.
• Lebeau Soleil, 25-27 Rue de Rollebeek, 0479 420 382. This cafe/studio, run by a livey violin maker and his bow making partner, offers a nice brunch served on tables between the instument-making work benches.

Accommodations

• Bedford Hotel, Rue du Midi 135, Tel. 32 2 507.00.00. Great location within easy walking distance of the Grand Place. Breakfast included. Small rooms, not the best bed, but still one of the best deals in a town commands high-priced rooms.
  

England Travel Guide

London

Restaurants and Pubs

• The Abingdon, 54 Abingdon Road, London W8, Phone: 4420 7937 3339. Love this place. Great food, great atmosophere. Well worth the trip.
  
• Tea Palace, 175 Westbourne Grove, London W11 2SB, Phone: 020 7727 2600 175. Open for breakfast, lunch, brunch, and afternoon tea. Reservations recommended. The shop sells over 160 varieties of tea and infusions from all over the world. Great, helpful service.
• 202 Cafe, inside Nicole Fahri, 202 Westbourne Grove, Notting Hill, London W11 2RH. Written up in The London News in March 2008 as one of the best breakfasts in London. By the looks of things they must be right — we couldn't get anywhere near a table on a Saturday in April.
• The Princess Victoria, 25 Earls Court Road, Kensington, London W8 6EB, Phone: 020 7937 4534. Cozy pub, friendly service. Try the John Smith's beer.
  

Accommodations

• The Rockwell, 181 - 183 Cromwell Road, London SW5 0SF, Phone: +44 (0)20 7244 2000. A lovely, independent hotel located in Kensington, conveniently located near multiple tube stops. Not in the "budget accommodations" category, the double rooms at The Rockwell are larger and more well appointed then most European hotels. Nice garden.
  
• The Kensington Close Hotel, Wrights Lane, London W8 5 SP, Phone: 0870 751 7770. Small, but nice rooms. Large hotel, but a good value.
  
  
  
  

Germany Travel Guide

Bavaria
This is the region in Germany most visit by tourists. We plan to go back in the summer when it's not so cold.

Attractions

• Schloss Neuschwanstein, Mad King Ludwig's storybook castle. Fascinating story. English tours available. Entrance fee, €9.00. Visitors can also purchase a combo ticket for €17.00 to see Hohenschwangau, Ludwig's childhood home. Wear your walking shoes because there is a steep hill to climb. There are also horse-drawn carriages that go to the tops but honestly, the people in who took them looked miserable.

Accommodations

• See Reutte, Austria
  

Bonn

Attractions

• Rhine Cruses. Most boats run March through October. Prices vary depending on the company, season, and length of your trip. (Bonner Personen Schiffahrt offers a good deal.) Many companies offer cruses along the Rhine. Though the portion of the Rhine between Cologne and Linz am Rhine is not the most scenic part o the river. It is certainly worth it if you will not be traveling farther up river. (See Rhineland Highs and Lows.)
  
• Drachenfels Bahn. €9.00 for train ticket, €10.00 for train plus entrance to the Schloss Drachenburg, Siebenbirgs Museum, and the Nature Museum. (Museum tickets can be used at any time, not only on the date of purchase.) The oldest cog railway in Germany, the Drachenfels Bahn travels from Köenigswinter up a steep portion of the Siebengebirge (literally Seven Mountains). From the top you can visit the ruins of the Drachenfels castle, which dominates the highest peak in the area and can be seen from many places in the Bonn area. There are great views and a nice cafe. Halfway down the hill the train stops at the Drachenfels Schloss, a residential castle, or visit the reptile zoo.
  

Restaurants

• Kratz, Lennéstraße 61, Südstadt. Mostly Italian food with Indian influences. Nice atmosphere. Friendly staff. (See A Local Place.)
• Eiscafé Capri, Theaterplatz 2, 53177 Bonn. Open daily from 10:00 AM to 11:00 PM, March through October. Phone: 0228-353681 Fax.: 0228-353847. Good gelato in Bad Godesberg. (See A Lot o' Gelato.)
  

Entertainment

• Jazz Keller, Burbacher Str.2/Ecke Reuterstr, 53129 Bonn. Jazz club featuring local acts. No cover. Visit their Web site for weekly schedule.
  

Cologne (Köln)

• The Kölner Dom, Dompropstei Margarethenkloster 5, 50667. Free admission every day except during services. English tours daily at 10:30 AM and 2:30 PM for €6. Meet inside, at the front. This is the attraction in Cologne. You don't really need a map to find it. If you arrive my train, exit the main train station (Hauptbahnhof, or HBF as you will see it posted) and look up. If you are driving into Cologne, the spires dominate the skyline. Following road signs to "Zentrum" will get you there. (Also see Kölner Dom or visit the cathedral’s Web site.)
  

Kölner Dom

Köln (a.k.a Cologne) is fearcely proud of its cathedral. I learned this fact even before setting foot on German soil. Tell someone you are visiting the Rhineland and they'll say, "Oh, you must visit the Dom in Köln." The cathedral, which dominates the city's skyline, is indeed impressive but I was at a loss as to what all the fuss really was about.

All that changed yesterday when we took the hour-and-a-half guided English tour.* Built on the site of a Roman church, construction on the new Dom began in 1164 and lasted over 800 years. For years the spires remained unfinished, and scaffolding and wooden cranes became the associated images. When Germany unified – the first time – in the Victorian era, the Dom was finally completed, giving the country a national symbol. (Although, maintenance continues and there is still plenty of scaffolding.) Today it is considered to be one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in the world.

But, what is really interesting about the Köln Dom is found behind the alter. Here a gilded, cathedral-shaped box holds the remains of the three magi. Even more fascinating is that twice a year, once in September and once on the Feast of the Epiphany on January 6th, the reliquary is opened and pilgrims can view the crowned skulls held therein.

* There are English tours daily at 10:30 AM and 2:30 PM for 6 Euros. Meet inside, at the front.

Getting a Handle on My Brats

Yesterday I showed my parents around downtown Bonn. That meant pointing out all the highlights: the Beethoven House, Munsterplatz, and a trip to Schlemmermeyer, the specialty sausage store.

With the smell of smoky goodness wafting through the air, Schemmermeyer is a tiny shop chocked full with sausages, cheese, and a few home made quiches and savory tarts. Though it is a chain store it still feels authentic and has tons of character.

I’ve been to Schemmermeyer before but yesterday’s visit was especially exciting for me. I actually asked the shopkeeper a question or two. Granted it was nothing complicated, but I now know the reason for the sausage explosion that I blogged about in January. (Those sausages were meant to be boiled, not cooked in a pan.)

We chose to leave with a package of Bratwurst, which we ate for dinner the same way you see them served on the street. That means a long sausage with a tiny little bun that functions more as a handle then as part of a sandwich.

Printen Cookies From Aachen

The route home from Brussels took us through Aachen, a beautiful town on the German border. We decided to stop for lunch, a quick tour of the cathedral, and to purchase a Printen cookie.

Only available in Aachen, Printen cookies are thick and a little bit chewy. They are reminiscent of gingerbread, with cinnamon, cloves, and anise, but more complex from the addition of candied orange peel, pimento, and coriander. You can get the cookies covered in chocolate or studded with almonds.

When we visited Aachen before Christmas, Santa-shaped cookies filled the store windows. On Monday, they were bunny shaped. I’ll have to go back to Aachen again just to see what other shapes they come in.

Beer, Beer, Beer

On Monday morning we visited the Cantillon brewery in Brussels. Here they make lambic beer, which is an acidic, sour beer that takes some getting used to. (I liked it; my beer-drinking father could take it or leave it.)

The self-guided tour comes with a great brochure that explained the process of making this strange brew. Wild yeast, spontaneous fermentation, and cobwebs are all part of the brewing process that hasn’t changed in hundreds of years.

Wurst of the Week - 3/17

I couldn't find any Dutch wurst in Amsterdam, so we had to get our fix with a Spanish sausage.

Mussels in Brussels

On Sunday morning we drove to Brussels. Though the city is not as charming as Amsterdam, it has its share of gorgeous squares and charming crooked streets. But, for me the highlight of Brussels was the festival of eating and drinking it offers at every turn. What could be better then a city known for chocolate, waffles, beer, and mussels?

I loved the waffle wagons on the street, ogled over the windows of the chocolate shops, and enjoyed sitting in a pub and having the waiter suggest his favorite beers for a round or two. Dinner here was also a highlight – mussels followed by lobster, clams, and more mussels.

On the Canals

Most tourist cities have double-decker tour buses; Amsterdam has canal boats. On Saturday we bought tickets, which were good until noon the next day, and hopped on and hopped off as much as we wanted. Not only did the boats give us a chance to see the city from the water (I particularly loved being able to peek at the other side of the many house boats)) but they served as easy transportation and gave us a place to sit down for a few minutes while still touring the city.

Falling for Amsterdam

In October I blogged about how much I liked Amsterdam. After visiting with my parents I can truly say that there is way more to this town then coffee shops and the red light district.

We arrived on Friday afternoon and checked into the apartment that I rented – an adorable little Dutch house off a canal just outside the city center. This was a perfect place to call our home base. I really enjoyed being able to come back, sit in the living room and visit rather then heading to a hotel room. José, the owner, has paired the place down to only the bare essentials. There was no clutter to be found, but everything you could want – nice sheets, maps of the city, a coffee pot, and box of cookies – was included.

We visited the Anne Frank house, touring the rooms where the Frank family and four other Jews hid for more then two years; walked through the red-light district (we had to – we were in Amsterdam after all); and then headed to dinner in the Neumarkt district.

On the Road Again

My parents arrive yesterday. This morning we’re traveling to Amsterdam, then to Brussels. A lot of beer drinking, mussel eating, and chocolate tasting are on the agenda.

My Gemüse Tüte

This week I purchased my first gemüse tüte, which translates literally to vegetable bag and is German’s answer to a coop. Everything in the bag is organic and they use as much local and seasonal produce as possible.

The bag included lettuce, cabbage, apples, and bok choy, which was the most exciting item to me. Last night I made a Thai coconut curry with turkey that I served with rice and great big helpings of sautéed greens with garlic.

Blog and You Shall Receive

Why is it that when you learn a new word, you hear it everywhere? Or that you discover a new trend, and then you see it everywhere you go? Or you mention something in passing, and then it pops up all over the place?

This phenomena happened to me this week with fava beans. In Monday’s post I mentioned fava beans – also known as broad beans. Then, for the next three days: fava beans, fava beans, everywhere fava beans.

The first couple of time that I saw them I chucked to myself thinking, “I know what a pain in the neck you are to prepare.*” But after seeing them for sale in half a dozen stores I started thinking about how good fava beans are. Fava beans with pasta and Parmesan, sautéed with onions and mushrooms, puréed and smeared on crusty bead – it all sounded so delicious.

I broke down and bought myself one kilo, which is a little over two pounds. That's the maximum amount I have patients to process. What was the deciding factor? Fava beans are one of the first vegetables to appear on the market to announce spring’s impending arrival. I can’t wait to see what comes next?

* An article about fava beans – complete with a brief description of how to prepare them is available on NPR’s Web site.

What I Can’t Say in German

Being able to speak a little German has improved my life here enormously. Simple communications in daily life are no longer a challenge. I am beginning to converse with shopkeepers, can order a meal, and now often understand the announcements on the train.

In my German classes we’ve learned how to politely ask a question. I can say, “may I,” “I’d like,” and “can you please.” What I can’t do is argue. I haven’t learned to say is “no, you’re wrong” or “that’s not correct.”

This is a problem because Germans tend to be very direct people. They don’t beat around the bush, and if something is a problem or difficult they don’t hesitate in telling you.

For example, yesterday I needed to get service done on my car. I was told that the work that I needed couldn’t get done there and was sent home. (This despite the fact that I had an e-mail from the company’s headquarters explaining – in German – the problem.) It took a call to the warranty office, another trip to the dealership, and a call from the warranty office to the dealership to finally convince the “customer service” representative that I was in fact correct. At no time did anyone apologize for the inconvenience.

Mini Pearl

One of the things that I like the best about my expat life is grocery shopping. Instead of being a rote chore, where I know pretty much exactly what's in each aisle, shopping here is always interesting. I never know what I may find.

This weekend's discovery: fresh pearl onions. When I saw these little treats I was very excited. Every year for Thanksgiving my family eats creamed pearl onions, but we always use frozen onions. I'd never seen them fresh before.

The red flag should have gone up when, on line to check out, the woman in front of me asked what I was going to do with them. She – an authentic German – had never seen them before either.

Saturday night's dinner was to include onion chutney made with the mini pearls. Not two minutes into the project did I realize that the chutney was doomed. These little guys, though adorable, are a pain in the neck to work. Each little onion needed to be peeled individually, a project that made shelling fava beans seem fast and exciting.

For anyone interested in cooking pearl onions, my tip is: Stick with the frozen ones!

Wurst of the Week - 3/10

The wurst wagon in Bonn's daily market has countless types of headcheese. I love the stripped edges of the meat in the second row. And notice that the one with the egg in the middle.

Mon Sherry

I’m obsessed with cooking with Sherry. It started at Thanksgiving when I purchased a bottle to use in the gravy. Since I'm not much of a sherry drinker and the bottle was already opened, I found myself using it to deglaze just about every pot and pan. The Thanksgiving bottle was rapidly replaced. Sherry became staple of my German kitchen

Sherry in mushroom risotto, classic. Sherry in chicken soup, delicious. Sherry in beef stew, perfect.

Around the same time, because winter was upon us, I started making a lot of soups. Each batch of pea soup tasted great, but the color was off. Not green, but a murky brown. I couldn’t figure out why.

Last night, while making potato-leek soup I discovered the problem. After sweating the leeks, as per usual, I deglazed the pot with sherry. Then, when I blended the soup the color was not the creamy white I expected, but nut brown. Like potatoes with gravy.

Then it dawned on me ... gravy ... sherry ... It's the sherry that's mudding the color of my soups.

German Food Receives High Praises

German food gets a bad wrap – there's more to eat here than kraut and wurst. The German people I have met are interested in food and cooking, eating well and healthfully, and support organic and local produce and products. Further diminishing this myth is the current boom in Teutonic cuisine.

Yesterday's New York Times reported that Germany is second only to France in the number of Michelin-starred restaurants, with nine three-star establishments. This fact has infuriated the Italians who only have five. And though I am more of a no-star restaurant diner, I was interested to learn that one Germany's 15 two-star restaurants, Steinheuer Heppingen, is located just outside Bonn.

Frühstücken

Frühstück is the German noun for breakfast; Frühstücken is the verb. Therefore, in German, you don't say "I had eggs for breakfast." Instead, you say "I breakfast with eggs." (Although, if you were really speaking German you'd say, "I breakfast with liverwurst," but that's another matter all together.)

Lunch (Mittagessen) and dinner (Abendessen) can also be verbs, but they don't seem as strange to me. These words are the time of day (Mittag is mid-day, Abend is evening) plus the verb to eat (essen).

What’s So Special About a Brezel?

Yesterday I realized that I haven’t yet blogged about one of the best German foods I’ve encountered – brezels.

Conceptually they are the same as pretzels available from any NYC street vendor, but German brezels are freshly made and more flavorful. They are available from most bakeries and can often be purchased from small windows that open onto the street.

The Germans like to eat their brezels split in half and buttered, and think it’s strange that Americans eat pretzels with mustard. In addition to the traditional pretzel-shaped brezels most shops also sell a pretzel roll, which can be eaten alone or used for a sandwich.

Bonn by the Book

Since moving I have read two books that – though not about Germany – mention Bonn. They are:

• Infidel by Ayaan Hirsi Ali. This is an autobiography by a Somali woman who traveled to Europe and, before receiving asylum as a refugee in the Netherlands, stayed in Bonn. The book discusses that many Muslim immigrants never become part of European society, a point that made me think of a conversation I had with a Libyan classmate from my language school. I was telling her how valuable I thought the school's organized outings were. Though I could understand why she wouldn't want to attend Friday night's stammtish (drinking beers while sitting around and talking), trips to museums or walking tours of the city might give her a chance to practice the language. Her response was that "her husband wouldn't let her."
• The United States of Arugula by David Kamp. This is a collection of essays about the food revolution in the U.S. No book about America's change of attitude toward food and cooking in the second half of the twentieth century can avoid discussing Julia Child. I was quite surprised to read that Julia live for a while in Bad Godesburg – the neighborhood in Bonn where I live. (Though I was not shocked that she didn't become obsessed with German food.)
  

Foodie Bootie

We ate really well in Portugal – lots of fish, nice salads, and tons of olives. Each meal started with a selection of appetizers such as cured ham, sardine or tuna pâté, and cheese.* I came home with enough treats – a super strong sheep cheese called Quejo de Ovelha Corado, the “Wurst of the Week” sausage, a tuna pâté, anchovies, and sea salt – to keep the trip on the tip of my tounge for a while. I also picked up a set of appetizer plates for a steal at the Thieves’ Market.

For anyone planning a trip to Lisbon, we stayed at the Borges Hotel on Rua Garrett. It’s in a great location, affordable, and clean and comfortable. Also, consider the following restaurants:

• Louro & Sal, 53 Rua da Atalaia: clean, modern décor warmed with brown paper and bright napkins on whitewashed tables; excellent salads and fish; a delicious house red, and a nonsmoking section
• Mercearia de Comida, 90-92 Rua da Barroca: eclectic décor with mismatched tables and chairs; really good baked sole with prawns; sangria
• Sul, 13 Rua do Norte: Because there was no printed menu I assume the options change frequently; steak that you cook at the table on a hot stone; the best olives on the trip
  

* Be forewarned, you don’t order these apps but you pay for them. Ironically though, the better the restaurant was, the few random apps they put on our table.

Wurst of the Week –3/3

This is a sausage from Portugal called Paio. It’s about three-inches wide and made with pork loin.

Trolleys, Trains, and Shuttle Busses

In stark contrast to Friday's walk-a-thon, Saturday was all about public transportation.

We started the day with a ride on Lisbon’s iconic yellow trolley. Trudging up and down steep hills, the ride was akin to the flume at Bush Gardens – minus the water, seat belts, and safety bar. Our destination was the Thieves’ Market, a sprawling flea market that had everything from socks to tiles to high-design lamps and furniture.

Next, it was a commuter train to the town of Sintra, a 40-minute ride to the hills sixteen miles northeast of Lisbon. From there was got on a shuttle bus that, at speeds that made the bus-load of tourists thrilled and horrified, took us up a steep road with hairpin turns and no safety rail to the Palace of Pena. The palace – with yellow and orange walls, tiles, and turrets – looks like a child’s drawing of a castle. Not far down the road is the Moor’ castle – ruins of an 8th century castle.

My Boots Are Made for Walking…

…Which is a good thing because that was the theme of the day!

Kevin had a meeting from eight to one, so I decided to spend the morning at the National Tile Museum (Museu Nacional do Azulejo). According to my guide book, Berlitz’s Pocket Guide to Lisbon,* the museum was “just up the road from the Military Museum.” The Military Museum didn’t look that far from my hotel, so I decided to hoof it. Over an hour of brisk walking up and down steep hills later I finally found the museum. Housed in a convent built in the early 1500, the building is reason enough for the visit.

I then walked back to the hotel (why, I don’t know) to meet Kevin for an afternoon stroll up to Castelo de São Jorge, ruins of a castle on the highest hill in Lisbon.

By the time dinner came my feet and I were super happy that we were staying near Barrio Alto, a neighborhood with more then enough great restaurants to keep me happy.

* This is a terrible book that I wholeheartedly do not recommend. It didn't give actual street addresses, was chocked filled with wrong information about enterance times and fees, and places mentioned in the book were not marked on the map.