Thursday, March 20, 2008

Kölner Dom

Köln (a.k.a Cologne) is fearcely proud of its cathedral. I learned this fact even before setting foot on German soil. Tell someone you are visiting the Rhineland and they'll say, "Oh, you must visit the Dom in Köln." The cathedral, which dominates the city's skyline, is indeed impressive but I was at a loss as to what all the fuss really was about.

All that changed yesterday when we took the hour-and-a-half guided English tour.* Built on the site of a Roman church, construction on the new Dom began in 1164 and lasted over 800 years. For years the spires remained unfinished, and scaffolding and wooden cranes became the associated images. When Germany unified – the first time – in the Victorian era, the Dom was finally completed, giving the country a national symbol. (Although, maintenance continues and there is still plenty of scaffolding.) Today it is considered to be one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in the world.

But, what is really interesting about the Köln Dom is found behind the alter. Here a gilded, cathedral-shaped box holds the remains of the three magi. Even more fascinating is that twice a year, once in September and once on the Feast of the Epiphany on January 6th, the reliquary is opened and pilgrims can view the crowned skulls held therein.

* There are English tours daily at 10:30 AM and 2:30 PM for 6 Euros. Meet inside, at the front.

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