The Rain in Spain...

...Fell mainly on the plane.

Friday was rainy and we experienced a lot of on the flight here. We landed at the Málaga airport and took a taxi 60 kilometers or so southeast to Marbella. Luckily, by the time we arrived at the hotel, the rain stopped.

Even if it had continued to rain I don't think it would have mattered too much. Kevin and I were preoccupied catching up with our friends who traveled from the U.S. to join us in Spain for the week.

Heading to Spain

No time for a proper post this morning. Kevin and I are headed to Spain.

Revenge of the Speed Demon

Germans are fickle about their speed limits. When there is no limit you truly can go as fast as you want. When there is a limit though, you'd better watch out.

Proving this point, I recently received my first speeding ticket...ever! Here a cop doesn’t stop you, instead a camera tracks your speed and you receive a wonderful picture of yourself on a ticket a few weeks later. The cameras are all over and you know you've been busted when you see a bright red flash.

The really infuriating part is that my ticket is for going 3 miles per hour over the limit. That's right I was going 36 km in a 30. (In miles, that translates 22 miles per hour in a 19 miles-per-hour zone.) Honestly, I ride my bike faster than that.

Sports in Cologne

Here's an interesting fact that I recently learned: Cologne has the greatest variety of professional sports teams than any other city in Germany. (Berlin has more teams because they have two soccer teams and three volleyball teams.)

As someone who has never been to a professionally basketball or football match in the U.S., it's amazing that I've seen all these teams — with the exception of ice hockey. I turned down my chance to watch them since, I went to hockey matches in the States and didn't find them all that interesting. In retrospect I probably should have gone. The fans in Cologne are awesome and probably would have made the game more interesting.

Here's a list of all the teams and their Web sites. I recommend attending a game if you can.

• 1.FC Köln – Fußball/Soccer
• Kölner Haie – Ice Hockey in German
• VfL Gummersbach – Handball
• Köln 99ers – Basketball
• Köln Renn-Verein – Horse Racing
  

Excess Baggage

Everything is bigger in the U.S. Highways are wide to accommodate large cars, refrigerators are gigantic to accommodate family-sized products, and apparently the baggage compartments on American-owned jets are more spacious to accommodate all of the luggage that we're allowed to travel with.

The major U.S. carriers — including Delta, American, and United — all have similar luggage restrictions. Passengers are can check up to two bags with a combine weight of 50 pounds (22.3 kg). These same carriers define carry-on luggage as one personal item and one bag weighing up to 40 pounds (18 kg). Even the discount airlines in the States adhere to similar baggage standards.

In Europe, things are very different, especially on discount carriers. This weekend I am flying on Ryanair. When I purchased the ticket I had to select whether or not I'd be checking any luggage, and then was charged 25 Euros for the suitcase. The suitcase must weigh less then 33 pounds (15 kg). Only one carry-on item is allowed, which must be less then 22 pounds (10 kg). And one means one. You can't get away with one plus a purse.

The traditional European airlines don't charge extra for baggage and have more reasonable guidelines, though weight restrictions are still less than what Americans are used to. One interesting point to note: despite limited baggage, you're allowed to bring skis for all flights on Lufthansa to Switzerland.

Wanderen in the Lahn River Valley

On Sunday Kevin and I wanted to participate in a Volksmarch, 5, 10, and 20 K organized Nordic fitness walk. Taking place in forested mountains, along rivers, or through picturesque farmland, Volksmarches are a way for us to see places in Germany that we otherwise wouldn't.

Kevin and I went to a bunch of Volkmarches in the fall, but haven't been to one for a while so our stash of fliers announced old events. We found a list of events on the Stars and Stripes Website (a news outlet catering to American Service Personal stationed in Germany) and picked an event in Villmar.

Villmar is in Hessen, a German state to the east of us. All of our road trips so far have been to the west and/or south, and this seemed like a great opportunity to see a new part of the country. However, when we got to the town, no Volkmarch was to be found. (That's why I didn't include a link to the events on Stars and Stripes.)

Instead we parked the car near the river and found an awesome path that seemed to go on forever. Turns out that Villmar is one of a number of towns along the Lahn River connected by a nearly 150 mile path that runs from Feudingen in the East to Lahnstein near Koblenz. Bikers frequent this trail and riding the entire thing usually takes about 4 days.

Beer School, Session 5

Budweiser tops this week's taste test. No, not that Bud. We tried to original Czech lager. This beer was actually recommended to us by an Austrian friend who claims that it's his favorite beer. It may not be our absolute top beer so far, but it was quite good.

Other beers that we tried include:

• Hacker-Pschorr, an unfiltered Double Bock from Munich. This beer was okay, but too sweet for our taste.
• Zischke Kellerbier (cellar beer) from Koblanz. Kellerbier is yet another type of beer available here. Unique because it can be top or bottom fermented, it is unclarified, unfiltered, and unpasteurized. It is sold in bottles or served directly from the barrel at beer gardens and contains more yeast then most other types of beer. Dispite all that, we found this beer to be watery.
  

German Health Insurance

I was woefully uneducated about Germany before moving here. Take, for example, my perception on healthcare. I thought that all countries in Europe had government-run universal healthcare. Watching Michael Moore's Sicko shortly before leaving the States did nothing to shatter this assumption.

I believed that — unlike in the U.S. where health insurance comes with high premiums and is only available to people with decent jobs — in German healthcare was free and wonderful and available to all.

Yes, less then .2 percent of the German population is uninsured and the nation's system is rated higher then the U.S. by the World Health Organization.* What I didn't realize was that people working in Germany have to pay for half of their insurance. (This is particularly interesting when I consider that I my employer in the U.S. paid 100 percent of my health insurance costs.) Furthermore, you have the option of public or private insurance and have to pay a co-pay when you visit a doctor.

* Germany is ranked 25th and the U.S. 37th. France is on top of the list and Canada is 30th.

In May It Must be a Holiday

Ten public holidays? Not for us. Lately it seems like Kevin only has to go to work four days a week.

Okay, in defense of the Germanys, that may be overstating things a bit. But in this year in May alone there were three public holidays.

The first was May Day. Then came Pentecost. And today is Corpus Christi. (It's interesting to note that in the States Pentacost and Corpus Christi don't even qualify as Holy Days of Obligation.)

Since this is my first year in Germany, every time a holiday comes up it's a surprise — and a little treat.

Springtime in Germany

Yesterday I bought a book called Springtime in Germany, subtitled Or How I hearned to Love Lederhosen. I'm very interested in reading it because it touches on a topic that I have experienced but I've never discussed — and certainly one that I've read anything about. It is why people don't really want to travel to Germany.

I'll admit that — except for the fact that I have German roots —Germany was never on the top of my must-see list. The country's dark history hangs heavy, but I am impressed with the way the nation deals with it. It is never too far from their memory. There are small plaques with people's names in front of homes from which people were deported, every history museum includes a section on the rise and fall of the Third Reich, and visiting a concentration camp is mandatory for all German students.

Since living here I've also discovered many wonderful things about German people and German culture. This is — hands down — the most environmentally conscious country that I have ever been in. The people are quite progressive politically. The crime rate is very low. And the food is way better then I expected.

After I finish reading the book I’ll update you with any other interesting observations.

Urban Gardening

I have a long, thin terrace with nice deep windowsills, which is the perfect place to put in a little garden. Even though I've never had any luck with houseplants, I can't shake this urge to try to grow something.

I know I might be a little late in the season, but the garden has emerged slowly. In January my tiny, potted Christmas tree ended up out there. This spring I planted a few flowers. I had intended to keep them in the house but moved them outside when they wilted and looked like they were going to die. Now they are thriving.

Instead of selling cut herbs, often they are available in pots in the produce section of the grocery stores. I've added a few to the windowsill as I've needed them for a recipe. First it was basil, then parsley, thyme, chives, and rosemary.

Most recently I purchase a few flats of lettuce that I plan to plant in boxes hanging along the railing. Cherry tomatoes are next. I can't wait for the mid-summer salad harvested right outside my door.

Wurst of the Week - 5/19

Here’s a whole new take on the boil-in-bag: In Munster you can get sausages with sauerkraut and pork vacuumed sealed and ready to go.

Playing the Ponies in Cologne

For Kevin and I, Sunday was a day at the horse races in Cologne. The Galopprenbahn Köln-Weidenpesch, the cities racetrack, is open from March through November with races taking place once or twice per month. Admission is 5 Euros per person — more to sit in the grand stands, less for kids — and all of yesterday's proceeds where donated to a charity that helps orphaned children in Cologne.

Thankfully for us, we attended the event with German friends. Without them I don't know how Kevin and I would have puzzled our way through placing a bet. And really, what fun is going to the races if you don't put some money on the line.

Though none of us hit it big, both couples came out ahead for the day. In my book, that's a very successful afternoon.

Beer School, Session 4

Top vs. Bottom Fermented Beers

While reading about different types of beer for the Beer School posts I keep coming across two terms: top fermentation and bottom fermentation. Usually this is one of the first facts given about a beer. Before I get further along in my quest for the world's best brew I need to understand these terms.

All beer is made from the same basic things: water, malt, hops, and yeast. Fermentation is the key process by which these ingredients are turned into beer. During fermentation the yeast breaks down the carbohydrates and produces alcohol. The byproducts of this process are what give different types of beer their unique flavor and characteristics.

There are two main varieties of yeast used in beer making: lager and ale. Top-fermentation happens with ale yeast. It was used to create the first beers since fermentation takes place in warmer temperatures. As the name indicates, the yeast acts on top of the brew. Top fermented beers often have higher alcohol concentrations then bottom fermented varieties and a fruity, sweet taste.

Bottom-fermentation, which used lager yeast, happens at lower temperatures. The yeast settles to the bottom of the brew and more sugars are fermented. The resulting beer has a crisp, clean taste.

I Love My Butcher

Perhaps I’m over stepping my right to call him "my butcher." I have to admit that I only go to his shop when I have something special in mind. But, after yesterday's visit, I want to buy ever piece of meat I purchase from him and him alone.

I've decided to make ribs for dinner tonight. With my shoty German and a fair amount of hand gestures I conveyed that I wanted beef short ribs. He disappeared for a moment and returned with a gigantic slab of meat on a huge hook. (Ah, I though, that's how to use a meat hook.)

What he brought from the cooler in the back turned out to be a complete set of ribs — from short to spare and everything in between. He then asked me how I planned to cook them, suggested the correct cut, and sliced the pieces to my exact specifications. As he was wrapping up the package he also shared tips and offered suggestions for next time I plan to make a braised dish.

Hmmm, is ox tail stew in my future?

American Products

Lidl, a discount supermarket chain, had the funnies display of "American Products" this week. Some of the items they offered were only "American" because they came in red, white, and blue packaging. Others, though, appeared to be the real deal. I happily stocked up on peanut butter and pecans. (This was my first pecan siting since setting foot on the continent.)

For the first time in weeks I don't have any trips planned this weekend. Instead Kevin and I are staying home and having people in for dinner. It's been a long time since I cooked for company. And now with my American stash I feel I am now having trouble deciding what kind of pie to make dessert. Also, I found funny napkins with American flags and the New York skyline.

Swim Season

It's been warm lately — high 70s and low 80s. Apparently, for locals, that means it's time to swim.

Everywhere I've been for the last two weeks, people have been diving in to whatever water is around. In the Eifel Park, it was a lake; in Bad Godesburg the city pools has been packed every day; and — to my utmost surprise — there are people taking dips in the Rhine.

The Rhine is pretty, yes. But it is not some place were I'd like to swim. There is always a ton of industrial traffic, the water looks murky, and the current is swift. Besides, it must be super cold in there!

Change Is in the Air

You've heard the expression, "out of the mouths of babes." My updated, Internet version of this says is, "out of the comments of tweens."

Regular readers may have noticed that there haven't been any food posts recently. It's not because I haven't been cooking. A few weeks ago I received a comment from my niece. She said, "I love reading your blog but I suggest you start doing more than just recipes...I enjoy reading more about what you are doing."

That's when it hit me. People interested in an expat travel blog are not necessarily food-obsessed readers looking for recipes, ideas, and tales of kitchen misadventures. Therefore, I'm pleased to announce that I've started a second blog.

The Apron Caper is my food blog. Here you'll find posts about what I've been cooking, recipes, and reviews of new foods and restaurants. Überall will focus on travel and living as an expat.

I've added a feed on the sidebar of each blog, so you can see all recent posts and easily link from one blog to the other. I hope you enjoy the change!

Wurst of the Week - 5/12

Here's a wurst from Strasburg. After seeing this is really believe that the French will put anything in a baguette.

Hiking in the Eifel

Yesterday, Kevin and I spent a wonderful day hiking in one of Germany's 14 national parks, Nationalpark Eifel. Located about 85K west of Bonn, the park occupies over 100 square kilometers in the Eifel Mountains. The range was formed by volcanic eruptions and is home to forested rolling hills, valleys, streams, and lakes.

We began our day at Simmerath-Rurberg, one of the three information centers. Though we simply plugged the address into our navi, it would have been easy to find without it. Roads leading from the A1 into the park were well marked with brown signs.

In the information center we were pleased to find a helpful English-speaking attendant and an excellent, very detailed map (for 10 Euros). With tons of trails at varying levels of difficulty, it was easy to find a hike to suit us.

We hiked about 12k, walking along a lake then cutting through the forest before looping back to the water. The paved or gravel trails, which we shared with mountain bikers, were easy to follow with our map. Along the way there were benches and even a picnic area.

Highlights of the day included speaking with a German couple (in German of course) about the Wild boars that recently tore up the picnic area, and sitting in the grass at the end of the hike watching the swimmers and basking in the sun.

Beer School, Session 3

We didn't get a chance to try many new beers this week. Between German lessons, yoga classes, and golf we were hardly home. Luck for us though, the golf club has a lovely terrace and Weiss beer on tap. They currently offer Schöfferhofer, which is very good. However, it doesn't compare to what they had earlier this season — Weihenstephan.*

All Weiss beers are top fermented, which means that they are fermented in warm temperatures and allowed to come in direct contact with air. I've always been a fan of Hefeweisen, but before coming to Germany I had no idea that there were so many different types of wheat beer. Here's my attempt at figuring out what they are:

• Hefeweisen is an unfiltered wheat beer with yeast. It's cloudy and has a fruit, full taste.
• Kristallweisen is the filtered version of Hefeweisen. It's clear, fruity, and lighter then Hefeweisen.
• Dunkelweisen is similar to Hefeweisen, but malt is added to the brew to make it dark and give a deeper flavor.
• Weissenbock is darker then Dunkelweisen, with a more pronounced alcohol taste.
• Berliner Weissbier. I haven't tried this beer yet and am not sure how it differs form any of the beers above. If anyone out there knows, I'd love to hear your comments.

* Weihenstephan is the oldest brewery in the world! Also, this beer was recommended a German friend, who claims it is his absolute favorite.

Bonn's A Buzz

I feel like I've moved to a new city. The dunkle Deutschland* that I've come know seems to be a thing of the past.

We've had over a week of spectacular weather. (Knock on wood.) Everywhere I go I keep seeing new things. Stores and businesses are spilling out on to the sidewalks. And there are vendors everywhere.

Restaurants and cafes are appearing out of the woodwork. Each place has put tables out front — even the little bakery attached to the grocery store. And, since it stays light until almost 10:00 PM, the town seems to be staying open later and later.

The biggest change, though, is in faces. People seem happier, friendly. They walk slower and with the faces up. I'd even go so far as to say that I've seen a few smiles.

* Dunkel Deutschland = dark and cloudy Germany.

Rhine on Fire

Last weekend was "Rhine in Flammen," a festival held every year the first weekend in May along the river. I had been told that there would be fireworks on Saturday night. And, being a sucker for a good fireworks display, planned our trip to Alsace to be home in time.

We packed a picnic dinner, which — because it's perfectly acceptable in Germany to drink in public — included a few new beers to try along with some incredible stinky but delicious cheese that we bought in France; threw everything into the baskets of our bikes; and headed to the river around 8:30.

In the U.S., fireworks displays generally begin around 9:30, 10:00 at the latest. I assumed that we'd get to the park, have something to eat, see the fireworks, and be home no later then 11:00. Apparently, I'm still not used to how late is stays light here.

When we got to the river we were completely amazed by the number of people. Both banks were lined with people — thousands of people. And it looked like people had been partying all day. As it grew darker people along the banks started lighting bon fires. Then, around 11:00 the boats started floating past, each light up like a Christmas tree. Also, red flares were lit on both sides of the river, which truly gave off the effect that the Rhine was in flames.

The whole thing was enough to make me think that that was the main even. Perhaps I misunderstood what "fireworks" were in German. Yet, an impressive fireworks display followed. For me though, the coolest part of the evening was going home at 11:30 P.M. and getting stuck in a bicycle traffic jam!

Cologne Soccer Is Fantastic

Last weekend, while attending my first European football (a.k.a. soccer) match, I was forced to wonder: Why isn't soccer more popular in the U.S.?

The game was super interesting. Even though there is a level of intricacies to following soccer that I have absolutely no comprehension of, the game itself was relatively easy to follow. And, unlike American football, play stops only for injuries so there was action from start to finish.

Lucky for me, this was an important match for FC Köln, the home team. They had to beat rival TSG Hoffenheim in order to move up to Germany's first league.* The RheinEnergie Stadium was sold-out, hosting 50,000 spectators.

The best part of the match was the crowd. I've gone to other sporting events in Cologne, so I knew that the city is home to some dedicated fans. They sing, cheered, beat drums, and waved flags and scarves. At this match, their enthusiasm had me on my feet cheering like a local.

* The German Nation League, the Bundesliga, is divided into two tiers. In order to play in the first league, a team must win a certain number of games per season.

Munster Hunter

Traveling south on the Rue d'Vin, Kevin and I decided to make a detour. In Colmar I found information for what appeared to be a Munster cheese* factory tour. Yes, it was written in French, but the pictures seemed clear: cows...milk...people with hairnets stirring large vats...wheels of cheese. On the back of the brochure was an address and hours of operation.

We plugged the address into our navi** and headed west 20K into the mountains. Just of few kilometers off the wine trail, the scenery changed completely. A lush green valley replaced the vineyards and sweeping visas. On both sides of the road were with steep green pastures dotted with cows and the occasional barn.

We turned where the navi told us, but it wasn't long before we realized there was no cheese factory on this road. Mildly disappointed — but happy to have seen the amazing scenery — it was time for plan B. We'd drive to the town of Munster instead.

This time the navi zigzagged us over a ridge, which must be a dream ride for anyone who enjoys motorcycling. (There were way more motorcycles on the road then passenger cars.) With more unbelievable views, we were happy for the ill-fated excursion to the cheese factory.

The town of Munster, while small, is worth visiting if interested in regional foods. In addition to the local Munster cheese, the main street is lined with stores selling house-made sausages, cakes, honey, and an interesting concoction of sauerkraut in a jar or vacuum packed with pork and hot dogs.

* Munster cheese, also known in France as Géromé, comes from this area. Known as "Munster Valley," it includes the town of Munster. More information is available on www.cheese-france.com.
** Navi = our GPS navigation tool.

Wurst of the Week - 5/5

This week's wurst comes from France, where you can get two sausages and fries together on a baguette.

Alsacation Vacation

What makes a great road trip? Amazing views. Charming small towns. Great food. Friendly people. The Route Des Vins D’Alsace in Eastern France has all this in spades.

The Rue du Vin, or "road of wine," begins less then 20K west of Strasburg in the town of Marlenheim. From there it winds 170 kilometers south to Thann. Brown marks indicate where to go next, but inevitably you will lose your way at least once. That's okay. We discovered many beautiful stretches accidentally.

There are plenty of things to stop and do. The road is lined with vineyards, castles, historic ruins, and medieval towns. Each turn offers something to explore. Also, with the Voges Mountains serving as the backdrop, the route is a great place to go hiking.

We stayed just off the official route in the town of Sélestat. From this location — near the middle of the route — we spent one day traveling north and one day going farther south.

I picked up maps at the tourist offices in the bigger towns (and when I say bigger, I don't mean big) that identified points of interest. You can also get information before you go by visiting the official Alsace tourism Web site.

Beer School, Session 2

Thanks for sending me your recommendation this week. We're looking for the brands that you suggested and will try them in the coming weeks.

I thought that, since Kevin and I went to Alsace, France this week we'd drink more wine then beer. But after assembling this post I see that we managed to try a few brews too.

Here's what we tasted this week:

• Holsten Edel from Hamburg. Kevin's comment when tasting this Pils was, "Once you get past the first bitter sip, its not too bad." I agreed. Today, however, I was checking their Web site and discovered that the packaging we have is completely different from what's online. Could it be that we had a very old bottle and that effected the taste?
• Kloster Andechs Dark Double Bock from Anderchs in Bavaria's Five Lake region. We didn't really like this one. It was too heavy, with too much malt for our liking. (One good thing about this brand though, is that they have a very good beer glossary on there Web site.)
• Rothaus Pils from Grafenhausen-Rothaus in the Black Forest. Pils, with its pronounced hoppy taste, is not generally Kevin's favorite style of beer. This one, however, made Kevin say, "I think I should give Pils a chance." This beer also gets our nod as been our favorite for the week.
• Oscar MaXXum Weizen from Duisburg in North Rhine-Westphalia. This beer was fine; I generally like wheat beers, but nothing special. There are many other better Weizen's out there.
• Peters Kölsch from Cologne. This is a good Kölsch, but not the best. I am looking forward to trying some of the others recommended instead.

Best of the Batch: Rothaus Pils and Peters Kölsch.

Strasburg Serendipity

Sometimes traveling can be frustrating. Getting oriented in a new place. Locating a bathroom. Finding something to eat. These challenges can make me wish I'd stayed home. But it's the memory of the other times, when things comes together perfectly, that keeps me exploring. My visit to Strasburg, on the boarder of France and German, was one of those days.

Of course, the fact that the weather was perfect – 65 degrees, with a bright blue sky and a few puffy white clouds that add interest but never blocked the sun — help to make the day ideal. Other factors that made the stop awesome included:

• A spectacular lunch. I came across a garden tucked between an ancient gate and an alley way. There were three or four separate restaurants here, though the waiters seem to go in and out of other establishment, mading me think the places were somehow related. Lucky for Kevin and I, we got a table at the most crowded place.
• A lively main square. After lunch, it was easy to find the town center. We simply looked up and followed the steeple. The Cathedral was impressive and musicians and venders selling Mayflowers completed the festival-like atmosphere.
• An interesting walking tour. The tourist office near the Cathedral had a good map for 1 Euro that we used to navigate ourselves to the other highlights, such as a statue of Gutenberg, who lived in Strasburg for a time while figuring out how to print with moveable type; the old fisherman's village, with half timber houses that looks more German then most of Germany, but ironically is called La Petite France; and covered bridges from 1200.
  

Happy May Day

Recognized as the International Workers Day, May Day is a bank holiday throughout Europe. There are labor protests in some countries, yes, but more often then not it is a day for outings and festivals.

Here in Bonn, today is the first day of Rhine in Flammen, or "Rhine in Flames" in English. There are concerts and performances in the park along the river and the event culminates on Saturday night with a parade of ships and fireworks. Also, I've been told that this is the first weekend that many of the beer gardens will be opened.

As with many holidays May Day traditions have pagan roots. Yesterday I learned about two interesting May Day customs:

• In France people give each other Lilies of the Valley as a gesture of good luck
• In Germany men deliver a birch tree covered colored streamers to their love interest
  

Yesterday we saw a few men with trees or large branches on their cars or in wagons behind their bikes. I didn't have my camera with me, but today I hope to find a decorated tree to add to this post.

As for Kevin and I, we are celebrating the day with a road trip to the Alsace region in France. That means no post tomorrow or Saturday, but I'll update the blog when we get back.