So, what happens when an expat moves back? Well, for one thing, her blog has to change. I can't write about life in Germany, but I can share some of the reverse culture shock that I'm experiencing. (I can't tell you how many people have called me "honey" this week. Now, that's something that never happened in Bonn.)
Also, since I still eat, live, and travel I can continue to write about that . . .even if a road trip to New York does not sound as glamorous as spending the weekend on an island in Greece. And, in not too long I can write about adjusting to live with a baby.
Making all of these changes in content pop, I'm working on some changes to the blog itself. Look forward to design updates, sidebars, and featured content. There may even be a surprise or two.
I'm heading north tomorrow and I won't be blogging again until after the holidays. I wish you a very happy and safe one.
Fröhliche Weihnachten!
Friday, December 19, 2008
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Movin' Out
Moving just plain isn't fun. Even though we didn't have to pack ourselves (the moving company came and did it all), my last week in Germany still consisted of a lot of work. Taking everything off the walls, cleaning out the pantry, selling the rest of our 220 volt appliances, organizing what would get packed in the shipping container and would we would need for the next six to eight weeks took most of our time.
Then, once the movers started their work, the house was in total chaos. Thank goodness there were only two days of that. The worst part about the German movers was the dueling cell phones playing really bad head-banger music -- in German! Even though my husband works in the cell phone biz, I really can't support the use of mobile phones as stereo systems. (Though, in his industry's defense, I have heard some very good speaker systems that hook up to mobile phones.) By the end of their first day of packing I was tired, weary, and ready for this project to be over.
The second day went much better. After everything was wrapped up safe and sound -- and I mean everything, even the sofa was boxed -- the movers started loading the container. Here is where German efficiency really came through. Instead of carrying all of our boxes down three flights of stairs and into the truck, the movers used a portable contraption that looked like a cross between an elevator and a crane. This cran-o-vator was raised to our balcony. The movers loaded it with boxes at the top and lowered them down to the shipping container on the street.*
With everything loaded on to the container safely, it was time to say goodbye to our Bonn apartment. It was a good apartment and served us well. I certainly will miss it. But, also, I was ready to go home.
* I have a video to post of this machine, but have to first figure out how to get it off my cell phone. (The charger for my camera was mistakenly packed.)
Then, once the movers started their work, the house was in total chaos. Thank goodness there were only two days of that. The worst part about the German movers was the dueling cell phones playing really bad head-banger music -- in German! Even though my husband works in the cell phone biz, I really can't support the use of mobile phones as stereo systems. (Though, in his industry's defense, I have heard some very good speaker systems that hook up to mobile phones.) By the end of their first day of packing I was tired, weary, and ready for this project to be over.
The second day went much better. After everything was wrapped up safe and sound -- and I mean everything, even the sofa was boxed -- the movers started loading the container. Here is where German efficiency really came through. Instead of carrying all of our boxes down three flights of stairs and into the truck, the movers used a portable contraption that looked like a cross between an elevator and a crane. This cran-o-vator was raised to our balcony. The movers loaded it with boxes at the top and lowered them down to the shipping container on the street.*
With everything loaded on to the container safely, it was time to say goodbye to our Bonn apartment. It was a good apartment and served us well. I certainly will miss it. But, also, I was ready to go home.
* I have a video to post of this machine, but have to first figure out how to get it off my cell phone. (The charger for my camera was mistakenly packed.)
Monday, December 15, 2008
Das Höhner: The Kings of Carnival
I'll miss Carnival in Cologne this year. That doesn't mean that I have to miss all of the festivities though.
When Kevin and I heard that the most popular Carnival band would be performing in Bonn on the last night that my Mom, sister, and niece were staying with us, we thought the concert would be a great way to send them off.
Das Höhner, which means the Chicken in German, has been performing for over 25 years. Their breakaway hit -- Viva Colognia -- can be heard at just about every Carnival event. It's the city's unofficial anthem and everyone sings along.
I didn't tell my family much about the concert in advance. Frankly, I didn't know much what it would be like myself. But, when we sat down on the night of the concert and watched the opening band, I know everyone was skeptical.
"It's like the circus with the animals," my Mom whispered as a band dressed in clown costumes jumped around on stage. Fortunately, things got better when the main act came on stage. After telling my niece that it was okay to act like a dork -- no one back home would ever know -- we all danced and sang our own made up words and had a great time.
***Watch Das Höhner for yourself.***
When Kevin and I heard that the most popular Carnival band would be performing in Bonn on the last night that my Mom, sister, and niece were staying with us, we thought the concert would be a great way to send them off.Das Höhner, which means the Chicken in German, has been performing for over 25 years. Their breakaway hit -- Viva Colognia -- can be heard at just about every Carnival event. It's the city's unofficial anthem and everyone sings along.
I didn't tell my family much about the concert in advance. Frankly, I didn't know much what it would be like myself. But, when we sat down on the night of the concert and watched the opening band, I know everyone was skeptical.
"It's like the circus with the animals," my Mom whispered as a band dressed in clown costumes jumped around on stage. Fortunately, things got better when the main act came on stage. After telling my niece that it was okay to act like a dork -- no one back home would ever know -- we all danced and sang our own made up words and had a great time.
***Watch Das Höhner for yourself.***
Friday, December 12, 2008
Christmas Markets
Traditionally, German Christmas markets open on the first Sunday of Advent. In recent years, however, this custom has become more relaxed. This year I was Thankful for this, since my Mom, sister, and niece were visiting the week before the first Sunday in Advent.
The German Christmas markets are fantastic. Each consists of a collection of small stands set up in town squares. Among the vendors are people selling gift items such as jewelry, hats and gloves, handmade soaps, and lots of Christmas decorations. There is also an abundant selection of things to eat. From bratwurst and pork steaks, to crepes and waffles, each market offers lots to choose from. And of course, there are always warm drinks. The drink of choice at most markets is gluwine. Similar to mulled wine, gluwine is made from red wine and spices. If it's really cold out, you can warm up even more by adding a shot of amaretto or rum to your cup.
We were able to visit a handful of markets in the week that my family was here, including the market near the Dom in Cologne, the markets in the town center of Bonn and Bad Godesburg, and the medieval market in Seigberg. Each market has it's own highlights. Set in the shadow of the Cathedral, the Cologne market has a very regal air. Bonn has a singing deer head. Bad Godesburg has a gigantic manger and lots of Muslims working at the stands.
But of all the markets I visited this year, the market in Seigberg stands out as my favorite. It is a traditional medieval market. That there are lots of candles and torches, all of the gift items are hand made, and the food is cooked over wood-burning fires. Also, instead of a marry-go-round being operated by a machine, two men stood in the center of the platform and turned the contraption by hand.
The German Christmas markets are fantastic. Each consists of a collection of small stands set up in town squares. Among the vendors are people selling gift items such as jewelry, hats and gloves, handmade soaps, and lots of Christmas decorations. There is also an abundant selection of things to eat. From bratwurst and pork steaks, to crepes and waffles, each market offers lots to choose from. And of course, there are always warm drinks. The drink of choice at most markets is gluwine. Similar to mulled wine, gluwine is made from red wine and spices. If it's really cold out, you can warm up even more by adding a shot of amaretto or rum to your cup.
We were able to visit a handful of markets in the week that my family was here, including the market near the Dom in Cologne, the markets in the town center of Bonn and Bad Godesburg, and the medieval market in Seigberg. Each market has it's own highlights. Set in the shadow of the Cathedral, the Cologne market has a very regal air. Bonn has a singing deer head. Bad Godesburg has a gigantic manger and lots of Muslims working at the stands.
But of all the markets I visited this year, the market in Seigberg stands out as my favorite. It is a traditional medieval market. That there are lots of candles and torches, all of the gift items are hand made, and the food is cooked over wood-burning fires. Also, instead of a marry-go-round being operated by a machine, two men stood in the center of the platform and turned the contraption by hand.Thursday, December 11, 2008
To Grandmother's House We Go
My maternal grandmother was born in Blieskastel, Germany in a small town in Saarland. Though I had tried several times during the time that I was in Bonn to connect with a distant cousin, I hadn't made it down there. That's why when my Mom, sister, and niece were visiting we decided to make the trip even though we we're able to see any of the family who still lives in the town.
There isn't much going in Blieskastel. A few houses, a couple of restaurants, and a bus stop. That's about it. Still it was nice to see the town where my relatives live. We even managed to find the house were my grandmother was born.
After driving through Blieskastel we decided to head to it's bigger neighbor, Lautzkirchen. Slightly more happening then Blieskastel, Lautzkirchen is still far off the tourist grid. The sleepy little town was setting up its Christmas market while we walked through. Most of the cafes were quite, and when we finally stopped, we were the only customers in the cafe we selected.
At first I wished we had walked in some place else, but once in there was nothing we could do but order something to eat. The waiter/cook was super nice, and in the end made us a very pleasant lunch. By the end of the meal I was translating for my mother, who struck up a conversation with the waiter. As it turns out, he knew some of her relative who still live in the area.
There isn't much going in Blieskastel. A few houses, a couple of restaurants, and a bus stop. That's about it. Still it was nice to see the town where my relatives live. We even managed to find the house were my grandmother was born.
After driving through Blieskastel we decided to head to it's bigger neighbor, Lautzkirchen. Slightly more happening then Blieskastel, Lautzkirchen is still far off the tourist grid. The sleepy little town was setting up its Christmas market while we walked through. Most of the cafes were quite, and when we finally stopped, we were the only customers in the cafe we selected.
At first I wished we had walked in some place else, but once in there was nothing we could do but order something to eat. The waiter/cook was super nice, and in the end made us a very pleasant lunch. By the end of the meal I was translating for my mother, who struck up a conversation with the waiter. As it turns out, he knew some of her relative who still live in the area.
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
Giving Thanks for Thanksgiving
For our first Thanksgiving in Germany, Kevin and I invited over some of our new friends. For our second Thanksgiving in Germany, Kevin and I used the holiday to invite some of those same friends over for one last hurrah. It was amazing to consider how much had changed in the year.
I remember how hard it was to plan the dinner in 2007. Would I be able to find cranberries? Where could I get a turkey? Could I find enough sweet potatoes?
Though my mother mailed a package of cranberries in 2007 just in case, this year I knew that they would show up in the larger supermarkets by the end of November. I have developed a relationship with my butcher, so I knew I was able to order on from him and pick it up on Thanksgiving morning. (And, even though we purchased a bigger fridge, it still wasn't large enough to store a turkey and all the other fixin's.) Also, I knew that the halal shops in Bad Godesburg each would have a few sweet potatoes. It would be no problem to gather enough.
Because my family was visiting the week leading up to Thanksgiving, I prepped all of the desserts ahead. This meant - much to the surprise of some - there was no pumpkin pie since the custard doesn't freeze well. Instead I made a three layer pumpkin cake. It was filled with a rum raisin and walnut filling and iced with cream cheese frosting. The Germans generally really like cake, and this one was a hit. I also served a classic apple pie with vanilla ice cream (it wouldn't be Thanksgiving without at least one pie) and chocolate pecan bars.
One of the best parts about Thanksgiving this year was that I had three kitchen assistants who helped me get everything prepped and in the oven on Thursday morning. I even had time to put up my feet for a bit while the turkey cooked.
All of our guests really seemed to enjoy the evening and everyone claimed to have eaten too much.
I remember how hard it was to plan the dinner in 2007. Would I be able to find cranberries? Where could I get a turkey? Could I find enough sweet potatoes?Though my mother mailed a package of cranberries in 2007 just in case, this year I knew that they would show up in the larger supermarkets by the end of November. I have developed a relationship with my butcher, so I knew I was able to order on from him and pick it up on Thanksgiving morning. (And, even though we purchased a bigger fridge, it still wasn't large enough to store a turkey and all the other fixin's.) Also, I knew that the halal shops in Bad Godesburg each would have a few sweet potatoes. It would be no problem to gather enough.
Because my family was visiting the week leading up to Thanksgiving, I prepped all of the desserts ahead. This meant - much to the surprise of some - there was no pumpkin pie since the custard doesn't freeze well. Instead I made a three layer pumpkin cake. It was filled with a rum raisin and walnut filling and iced with cream cheese frosting. The Germans generally really like cake, and this one was a hit. I also served a classic apple pie with vanilla ice cream (it wouldn't be Thanksgiving without at least one pie) and chocolate pecan bars.
One of the best parts about Thanksgiving this year was that I had three kitchen assistants who helped me get everything prepped and in the oven on Thursday morning. I even had time to put up my feet for a bit while the turkey cooked.All of our guests really seemed to enjoy the evening and everyone claimed to have eaten too much.
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
Cologne's Dom
I have to admit that Cologne is not my favorite city in Germany. Sure, it's a big city and has lots of big-city amenities like plenty of restaurants, shopping, museums, sporting events, and an arena that attracts the countries biggest tours. But, it lacks the quaintness and charm that I have found in small cities and villages.
Despite my feelings, though, no visit to the Rhine region would be complete without a trip to the city. And the city's crown jewel, the Cologne Cathedral, should not be missed. Every time I had visitors staying with me, one day included a tour of the cathedral.
It was not different when my Mom, sister, and niece stayed with me. This was the third time I took the English tour, which meets in the back of the church and is offered daily at 11:00 AM and 2:30 PM. I was fascinate that each time I took the tour the guide focused on a different aspect of the church -- once the history and architecture, once the significance on the relics, and once on art and art history.
The cathedral receives thousands of visitors each day. Some come as tourists to see the church that stands as a symbol of national unity. Others come as Pilgrims to pay homage to the relics of the three Magi, which are housed in a giant gold reliquary behind the main alter.
At times during the trip, I felt bad for my niece. Touring Europe with her sometimes slightly geeky aunts and grandmother meant that “teachable moments” were not passed up. But, with so many great lessons presenting themselves, we just couldn’t help ourselves. The cathedral tour inspired a discussion about Pilgrims.
With Thanksgiving only a day away, the American Pilgrims were in the forefront of our American minds. Yet the discussion of Pilgrims coming to the church to visit the relics of the three Magi lead to a lesson about what exactly made someone a Pilgrim.
Despite my feelings, though, no visit to the Rhine region would be complete without a trip to the city. And the city's crown jewel, the Cologne Cathedral, should not be missed. Every time I had visitors staying with me, one day included a tour of the cathedral.
It was not different when my Mom, sister, and niece stayed with me. This was the third time I took the English tour, which meets in the back of the church and is offered daily at 11:00 AM and 2:30 PM. I was fascinate that each time I took the tour the guide focused on a different aspect of the church -- once the history and architecture, once the significance on the relics, and once on art and art history.The cathedral receives thousands of visitors each day. Some come as tourists to see the church that stands as a symbol of national unity. Others come as Pilgrims to pay homage to the relics of the three Magi, which are housed in a giant gold reliquary behind the main alter.
At times during the trip, I felt bad for my niece. Touring Europe with her sometimes slightly geeky aunts and grandmother meant that “teachable moments” were not passed up. But, with so many great lessons presenting themselves, we just couldn’t help ourselves. The cathedral tour inspired a discussion about Pilgrims.With Thanksgiving only a day away, the American Pilgrims were in the forefront of our American minds. Yet the discussion of Pilgrims coming to the church to visit the relics of the three Magi lead to a lesson about what exactly made someone a Pilgrim.
Monday, December 8, 2008
Home Sweet Temporary Housing
We arrived in Raleigh safe and sound on Saturday night. As I expected, we were a spectacle at the airport. Picture this: Kevin with one pregnant lady, six suitcases, three carry-on bags, and a cat. But we made it safe and sound.
Starting tomorrow I am going to finish writing the posts from the week I spent with my Mom, sister, and niece. Then I'll get to the move posts. Then I'll be up-to-day and will start back with daily posts.
Starting tomorrow I am going to finish writing the posts from the week I spent with my Mom, sister, and niece. Then I'll get to the move posts. Then I'll be up-to-day and will start back with daily posts.
Thursday, December 4, 2008
Amsterdam (or Should I Say Amsterdarn?)
The title of this post is thanks to a bit of seventh-grade humor. Well, that's not exactly true. It's the humor of a seventh-grade teacher, as repeated by the much cooler twelve-year old who joined my mother, sister, and me for our road trip to Amsterdam.
My niece wasn't originally supposed to come to visit Germany until Christmas, when her whole family was also making the trek. Since we have to move back to the states before then, she convinced her parents, grandmother, and aunt that she should tag along with them. Now, she has a new nickname of "Hitch" (short for hitchhiker) and a trip to Germany and the Netherlands under her belt.
This is my third trip to Amsterdam, and each visit I had different lodging requirements. The first time I was here was with Kevin, and we stayed in a hotel outside of the city center. Instead of fighting the traffic, we instead took the train downtown each day. The second time staying overnight, I rented and small canal house in a residential neighborhood. This time, since we only had one night and two days to explore, I opted for the most central location I could find.
Thanks goodness my sister agreed to drive into the city. The small roads were a bit harried and the bikers appeared to have a death wish. She magically navigated the car to a parking garage near our hotel, and we didn't move it again until we were ready to head home.
After settling into our hotel, we headed to the Anne Frank house. Since it was a Monday in the late afternoon in November, there was no line to enter. Though I had been through the house before, I still got a lot out of the exhibit. It is amazing to consider that eleven people hid in these rooms for over two years. I can't imagine what that must have been like.
At the end of the exhibit there is an interactive video presentation about freedom and liberty. After a brief explanation of a number of situations surrounding freedom of speech, religion, and the press, visitors can vote on whether they agree or disagree. This feature dovetailed perfectly with the next spot on our tour of the city: the red light district.
After explaining "personal freedoms" to my niece, we walked down one street in the red light district. Let me tell you though, nothing will stop a group of rowdy men like the sight of my mother marching her daughters and niece through a side street of red lights
My niece wasn't originally supposed to come to visit Germany until Christmas, when her whole family was also making the trek. Since we have to move back to the states before then, she convinced her parents, grandmother, and aunt that she should tag along with them. Now, she has a new nickname of "Hitch" (short for hitchhiker) and a trip to Germany and the Netherlands under her belt.
This is my third trip to Amsterdam, and each visit I had different lodging requirements. The first time I was here was with Kevin, and we stayed in a hotel outside of the city center. Instead of fighting the traffic, we instead took the train downtown each day. The second time staying overnight, I rented and small canal house in a residential neighborhood. This time, since we only had one night and two days to explore, I opted for the most central location I could find.
Thanks goodness my sister agreed to drive into the city. The small roads were a bit harried and the bikers appeared to have a death wish. She magically navigated the car to a parking garage near our hotel, and we didn't move it again until we were ready to head home.
After settling into our hotel, we headed to the Anne Frank house. Since it was a Monday in the late afternoon in November, there was no line to enter. Though I had been through the house before, I still got a lot out of the exhibit. It is amazing to consider that eleven people hid in these rooms for over two years. I can't imagine what that must have been like.
At the end of the exhibit there is an interactive video presentation about freedom and liberty. After a brief explanation of a number of situations surrounding freedom of speech, religion, and the press, visitors can vote on whether they agree or disagree. This feature dovetailed perfectly with the next spot on our tour of the city: the red light district.
After explaining "personal freedoms" to my niece, we walked down one street in the red light district. Let me tell you though, nothing will stop a group of rowdy men like the sight of my mother marching her daughters and niece through a side street of red lights
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
The Castle Augustusburg in Brühl
When a trip to Europe is a week or less, you really can't waste the first day adjusting to the time difference. It is best to re-set your watch and start seeing the sights. That's why I had plans for my Mom, sister, and niece on their first day here in Germany.
After picking them up from the airport on Sunday we had a brief pit stop at my apartment. (Sleeping may not have been on the agenda, but showering certainly was.) Then it was off to the Castle Augustusburg.
One of the most famous castles in the Bonn/Cologne area and a UNISCO World Heritage site, I had never been there before. Having visitors was the perfect excuse to get there before leaving Germany.
The castle was build from 1725 to 1768 for Clemens August, an elector and archbishop of Cologne. Using the best Rocco architects of the time, it is modeled after Versailles and was intended at a country retreat. Surrounding the castle are elaborate gardens, which are the site of outdoor concerts in the warm weather. Entry to the gardens is free.
The interior can only be visited with a guided tour and costs 5 Euros per person. If you call ahead arrangements can be made for a tour in English. Too bad I didn't know this and we had to take the tour in German. An English guidebook was given to us at the front desk. Many of the rooms are written about and we were able to follow along with the tour.
The castle incorporates just about every architectural and decorative element of the baroque era. That means a lot of glitz and glamour. I especially liked the leather wallpaper with gold leaf appliqué.
The most famous feature of the castle is the ceremonial staircase designed by architect Balthasar Neumann. The space was used a receiving hall and incorporating sculptures and lots of faux marble — which wasn't used because it was less expensive, but rather because it allowed the designers to get the exact colors they wanted. Crowning the space is a fresco ceiling by Carlo Carlone.
Schloss Augustusburg in Brühl
Schlossstrasse 6
50319 Brühl
After picking them up from the airport on Sunday we had a brief pit stop at my apartment. (Sleeping may not have been on the agenda, but showering certainly was.) Then it was off to the Castle Augustusburg.
One of the most famous castles in the Bonn/Cologne area and a UNISCO World Heritage site, I had never been there before. Having visitors was the perfect excuse to get there before leaving Germany.The castle was build from 1725 to 1768 for Clemens August, an elector and archbishop of Cologne. Using the best Rocco architects of the time, it is modeled after Versailles and was intended at a country retreat. Surrounding the castle are elaborate gardens, which are the site of outdoor concerts in the warm weather. Entry to the gardens is free.
The interior can only be visited with a guided tour and costs 5 Euros per person. If you call ahead arrangements can be made for a tour in English. Too bad I didn't know this and we had to take the tour in German. An English guidebook was given to us at the front desk. Many of the rooms are written about and we were able to follow along with the tour.The castle incorporates just about every architectural and decorative element of the baroque era. That means a lot of glitz and glamour. I especially liked the leather wallpaper with gold leaf appliqué.
The most famous feature of the castle is the ceremonial staircase designed by architect Balthasar Neumann. The space was used a receiving hall and incorporating sculptures and lots of faux marble — which wasn't used because it was less expensive, but rather because it allowed the designers to get the exact colors they wanted. Crowning the space is a fresco ceiling by Carlo Carlone.
Schloss Augustusburg in Brühl
Schlossstrasse 6
50319 Brühl
- Open: Tuesday through Friday 09:00 AM – 12:30 PM (admission until 12:00 PM) and 1:30 – 5:00 PM (admission until 4:30 PM); Saturday, Sunday, and holidays 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM (admission until 5:00 PM)
- Telephone: +49 (0)22 32 / 440 00 or 944 31 17
- E-mail: info(at)schlossbruehl.de
Monday, December 1, 2008
What a Week
Months ago my Mom and sister planned to come to visit over Thanksgiving weekend. My Mom wanted to see my pregnant and help set up the nursery. My sister too thought the trip would be all about getting ready for the baby. When I found out I was going to be moving back to the states, however, their trip changed into something entirely different.
Instead of helping to get ready for the baby, we spent the week traveling around and trying to see as much as possible. That meant, a trip to the castle in Bruhl, two days in Amsterdam, the cathedral in Cologne, a Thanksgiving feast with lots of German friends, a pilgrimage to the town where my grandmother was born, a concert by one the biggest Carnival bands, and the Christmas market in Cologne, Bonn, Bad Godesburg, and Seigburg.
After dropping them off at the airport on Sunday morning, I returned to my house and took a nap. I will write proper posts about all that we did and saw in the coming days, but now I have to start packing the house for our trip back to the states. I can't believe the movers come that day after tomorrow.
Instead of helping to get ready for the baby, we spent the week traveling around and trying to see as much as possible. That meant, a trip to the castle in Bruhl, two days in Amsterdam, the cathedral in Cologne, a Thanksgiving feast with lots of German friends, a pilgrimage to the town where my grandmother was born, a concert by one the biggest Carnival bands, and the Christmas market in Cologne, Bonn, Bad Godesburg, and Seigburg.
After dropping them off at the airport on Sunday morning, I returned to my house and took a nap. I will write proper posts about all that we did and saw in the coming days, but now I have to start packing the house for our trip back to the states. I can't believe the movers come that day after tomorrow.
Sunday, November 30, 2008
Wurst of the Week: November 30
There really is a wurst for everyone. Here, we found a chocolate hot dog.
Friday, November 21, 2008
Ice Hockey in Cologne
I'm not the biggest hockey fan in the world. I have been to two games before -- once at Madison Square Garden to see the New York Rangers, and once at the RBC center in Raleigh to see the Carolina Hurricanes. Both arenas are huge and my seat was high above the ice. I found it hard to see the tiny puck and didn't have a clue about the rules. Players skated on and off the ice randomly and the play stopped and started.
When Kevin asked if I wanted to go to a hockey match in Cologne, my initial reaction was, "Why? We don't like hockey." But Kevin assured me that this time is would be different. Our seats would be close to the ice and we were going with a few people who would be able to explain what was happening. Also, I've had fun at other sporting events here in Cologne. The fans are fantastic. They drum and sing and chant and do the wave. Even if the game wasn't that great, I agreed to go thinking that at least the crowd would entertain me.
Our journey to the game didn't start out good. We got stuck in traffic on the way and missed the entire first period altogether. When we arrived at the stadium, we were hungry and tired and in desperate need of a trip to the rest room. If you had asked me then my prediction about the evening, I wouldn't have been too enthusiastic.
But then, with wurst and drink in had, we found our seat and were treated to a truly great sporting match. The score was one-one when we arrived. In the second period Cologne scored twice, while the team from Düsseldorf scored three times. Early in the third period Düsseldorf scored again and things looked like they were falling apart for the home team.
Midway through the final period, however, the teams started to rally. A fourth goal helped to inspire the crowd, who had been uncharacteristically quiet. With the cheering now at full volume, the team played hard for the last ten minutes, and managed to tie up the game with less than two minutes of play left.
This meant that the game when into a five-minute, sudden-death overtime period. In under three minutes Cologne scored and the crowd when wild. It was the exact perfect ending to an exciting game.
When Kevin asked if I wanted to go to a hockey match in Cologne, my initial reaction was, "Why? We don't like hockey." But Kevin assured me that this time is would be different. Our seats would be close to the ice and we were going with a few people who would be able to explain what was happening. Also, I've had fun at other sporting events here in Cologne. The fans are fantastic. They drum and sing and chant and do the wave. Even if the game wasn't that great, I agreed to go thinking that at least the crowd would entertain me.Our journey to the game didn't start out good. We got stuck in traffic on the way and missed the entire first period altogether. When we arrived at the stadium, we were hungry and tired and in desperate need of a trip to the rest room. If you had asked me then my prediction about the evening, I wouldn't have been too enthusiastic.
But then, with wurst and drink in had, we found our seat and were treated to a truly great sporting match. The score was one-one when we arrived. In the second period Cologne scored twice, while the team from Düsseldorf scored three times. Early in the third period Düsseldorf scored again and things looked like they were falling apart for the home team.
Midway through the final period, however, the teams started to rally. A fourth goal helped to inspire the crowd, who had been uncharacteristically quiet. With the cheering now at full volume, the team played hard for the last ten minutes, and managed to tie up the game with less than two minutes of play left.
This meant that the game when into a five-minute, sudden-death overtime period. In under three minutes Cologne scored and the crowd when wild. It was the exact perfect ending to an exciting game.
Thursday, November 20, 2008
No Time to Blog Today
I have a busy day planned. I am working at IFOAM (for my second to last time), then going to the airport with Kevin the drop off friends. Tonight we have tickets to the the Cologne Sharks, the city's ice hockey team. Since the game is in Cologne, there is no real reason to come all the way back to Bonn after seeing our friends off. Instead we're going to get dinner in Cologne and then head to the game.
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Christmas Markets to Open This Weekend
I love Christmas. But I'm also don't really want to see the red and green rolled out until Thanksgiving's leftovers are wrapped in their Tupperware containers. That is I usually don't want to see Christmas before Thanksgiving. This year I'm supper excited for the early bit of holiday cheer.
I have a good reason for changing my Christmas tune. My mom, sister, and niece will be arriving on Sunday and I am excited that they'll be able to see the German Christmas Markets.
Last year I couldn't get enough of the Christmas markets. The food, the gluwine, the trinkets: It was all so cozy and holiday-esque. Last year I loved arriving at a market around dusk, warming up with a mug of spiced wine, then wandering around in the crisp air while doing my Christmas shopping. It was far, far, better then visiting the mall.
Not every market will open this weekend. Some will wait until the traditional opening day, which is the first Sunday of Advent. However, according to Google the Bonn and Cologne markets will open on the 21st of November. This year I am adding the Seigberg Market to my must-visit list. Promising mead and minstrels, the town hosts a traditional Medieval Market. This one wont open until November 29, but that will be a perfect way to end their trip.
I have a good reason for changing my Christmas tune. My mom, sister, and niece will be arriving on Sunday and I am excited that they'll be able to see the German Christmas Markets.
Last year I couldn't get enough of the Christmas markets. The food, the gluwine, the trinkets: It was all so cozy and holiday-esque. Last year I loved arriving at a market around dusk, warming up with a mug of spiced wine, then wandering around in the crisp air while doing my Christmas shopping. It was far, far, better then visiting the mall.
Not every market will open this weekend. Some will wait until the traditional opening day, which is the first Sunday of Advent. However, according to Google the Bonn and Cologne markets will open on the 21st of November. This year I am adding the Seigberg Market to my must-visit list. Promising mead and minstrels, the town hosts a traditional Medieval Market. This one wont open until November 29, but that will be a perfect way to end their trip.
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
A Multicultural Experience
One of the things that I have enjoyed most about my time in Germany is that I have gotten to know people from all over the world. This was an unexpected surprise for me, since before coming I assumed that Germany was not a very diverse country. Through Kevin's job, my language classes, and volunteering we have met people from Africa, all over Europe, Asia, and the Middle East.
And of course, because I love to eat, having a group of friends from all corners of the earth means that dinner invitations are a delicious way to try authentic international cuisines. Last night we were invited to a birthday dinner for an Indian friend from South Africa.
The menu included two types of curry: one with chicken and peas and one with lamb and potatoes. Tanya starts with her own, homemade curry paste, which includes spices mixed by her mother and specially delivered to Germany. Both were spicy, but not overwhelming. (Though they did tell us that they tamed the dishes a bit for our more-sensitive pallets.) Accompanying the curries were basmati rice and three chutneys. The lime and mango chutney added a lot of flavor as well as some more heat.
For dessert we had bread pudding with coconut and apricot jam. The sweet creamy pudding was a perfect counter balance for the spicy entrees.
The whole meal left me wishing I could pack up my international friends and bring them with me back to Raleigh.
And of course, because I love to eat, having a group of friends from all corners of the earth means that dinner invitations are a delicious way to try authentic international cuisines. Last night we were invited to a birthday dinner for an Indian friend from South Africa.
The menu included two types of curry: one with chicken and peas and one with lamb and potatoes. Tanya starts with her own, homemade curry paste, which includes spices mixed by her mother and specially delivered to Germany. Both were spicy, but not overwhelming. (Though they did tell us that they tamed the dishes a bit for our more-sensitive pallets.) Accompanying the curries were basmati rice and three chutneys. The lime and mango chutney added a lot of flavor as well as some more heat.
For dessert we had bread pudding with coconut and apricot jam. The sweet creamy pudding was a perfect counter balance for the spicy entrees.
The whole meal left me wishing I could pack up my international friends and bring them with me back to Raleigh.
Monday, November 17, 2008
Terra Vino: The Best Restaurant in Bad Godesberg
As I start wrapping up my life here in Germany, I was thinking about what restaurants I want to eat at one last time. While I've had a number of good meals while living here, there really is only one place that I feel like I need to visit for certain before I leave: Terra Vino in Bad Godesberg.
Hidden behind a strip of nondescript stores off Koblenzer Strasse in the center of the village, Terra Vino is hard to find. The address, Hubertinumshof 11, is located in a courtyard that looks more like a parking lot. I lived in Bad Godesberg for months before I even knew the place existed. A neighbor recommended the place, claiming that it was "some of the best Italian food he's ever eaten." It took me a few trips to the town center before I successfully found the restaurant he described.
Boy, am I glad I finally found it. Once getting past the unassuming facade and the even more unassuming front entrance you are transported into a charming dinning space. It is best to reserve a table ahead of time, to make sure you can sit at one of the long tables with benches it the back. The walls are lined with dark wood shelves that hold hundreds of bottles of wine. Classified by type and then region Kevin and I usually order one of the Chianti Classicos.
With no written menus, the wait staff explains the day's specials. The selections change regularly, but usually includes a salad, antipasti, brusetta, few pasta dishes, a fish, and a meat dish. The salads are fresh and perfectly dressed, the antipasti platter contains a nice sampling of cured meats and cheeses, but the brusetta is hands down my favorite. With lightly tasted bread, a generous topping of tomatoes and onions, and a fruity olive oil, it is hard to believe that such a simple combination can be so good.
For an entree, I almost always get pasta. I have never been disappointed. All are made from scratch daily, and most often simply dressed. The light and flavorful gnocchi, for example, comes dressed in either pesto or tomato sauce with a hefty sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. There is also usually a stuffed or baked pasta offered. Here, again, the straightforward simple executions are delivered to perfection.
Kevin's favorite item is the baked fish. Always a medium-sized whole fish, such as a dorade, a few lemon slices and green onions are tucked inside the fish that is then wrapped in foil and cooked. The result is a moist, flavorful meal where the taste of the fish is allowed to shine.
We've never ordered dessert, which includes a selection of traditional Italian specialties. For us, lingering over a cappuccino is the perfect way to end the meal.
Terra Vino
Hubertinumshof 11
53175 Bonn - Bad Godesberg
Hidden behind a strip of nondescript stores off Koblenzer Strasse in the center of the village, Terra Vino is hard to find. The address, Hubertinumshof 11, is located in a courtyard that looks more like a parking lot. I lived in Bad Godesberg for months before I even knew the place existed. A neighbor recommended the place, claiming that it was "some of the best Italian food he's ever eaten." It took me a few trips to the town center before I successfully found the restaurant he described.
Boy, am I glad I finally found it. Once getting past the unassuming facade and the even more unassuming front entrance you are transported into a charming dinning space. It is best to reserve a table ahead of time, to make sure you can sit at one of the long tables with benches it the back. The walls are lined with dark wood shelves that hold hundreds of bottles of wine. Classified by type and then region Kevin and I usually order one of the Chianti Classicos.
With no written menus, the wait staff explains the day's specials. The selections change regularly, but usually includes a salad, antipasti, brusetta, few pasta dishes, a fish, and a meat dish. The salads are fresh and perfectly dressed, the antipasti platter contains a nice sampling of cured meats and cheeses, but the brusetta is hands down my favorite. With lightly tasted bread, a generous topping of tomatoes and onions, and a fruity olive oil, it is hard to believe that such a simple combination can be so good.
For an entree, I almost always get pasta. I have never been disappointed. All are made from scratch daily, and most often simply dressed. The light and flavorful gnocchi, for example, comes dressed in either pesto or tomato sauce with a hefty sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. There is also usually a stuffed or baked pasta offered. Here, again, the straightforward simple executions are delivered to perfection.
Kevin's favorite item is the baked fish. Always a medium-sized whole fish, such as a dorade, a few lemon slices and green onions are tucked inside the fish that is then wrapped in foil and cooked. The result is a moist, flavorful meal where the taste of the fish is allowed to shine.
We've never ordered dessert, which includes a selection of traditional Italian specialties. For us, lingering over a cappuccino is the perfect way to end the meal.
Terra Vino
Hubertinumshof 11
53175 Bonn - Bad Godesberg
- Phone: 02 28 / 3 29 78 58
- E-mail: terraone@t-online.de
- Open: Monday through Saturday; closed Sundays
- Lunch 11:00 A.M. - 3:00 P.M.; dinner 6:00 P.M. - 12:00 A.M.
Sunday, November 16, 2008
Wurst of the Week: November 16
At the Cologne Arena, huge utter-like containers dispense the mustard for the Bratwurst. Though this system does away with the sputtering problem typical of regular, push dispensers, it was kind of kind of weird to feel like I was milking the mustard.
Friday, November 14, 2008
The Count Down Begins
I hate moving. The process is such a pain in the neck. It feels like Kevin and I just got our German lives sorted out. Now we're trying to figure out how to cancel our utilities, making appointments with the realtor who is trying to get our apartment rented by January so we don't have to pay an extra month's rent, and finishing up projects at work before we take off.
At the same time we are making time to get together with friends, prepare for visitors, and plan a Thanksgiving/going away dinner fest.
In the mist of all of this, we are also working to get our life back in Raleigh organized. I already have doctor's appointments scheduled so I don't have to miss a singe visit. I've also make a date to visit the hospital where I plan to deliver and finally have found a birthing class. We've started researching what kind of cars we should buy. Our tenant has been informed and now that we have a confirmed move-out date we can make arrangements to have our things moved out of storage.
It's funny to think that a few weeks ago I was looking forward to holing up in our apartment for a few months with the new baby. Now, I am looking forward to the same few months, but everything else about the picture will be totally different.
At the same time we are making time to get together with friends, prepare for visitors, and plan a Thanksgiving/going away dinner fest.
In the mist of all of this, we are also working to get our life back in Raleigh organized. I already have doctor's appointments scheduled so I don't have to miss a singe visit. I've also make a date to visit the hospital where I plan to deliver and finally have found a birthing class. We've started researching what kind of cars we should buy. Our tenant has been informed and now that we have a confirmed move-out date we can make arrangements to have our things moved out of storage.
It's funny to think that a few weeks ago I was looking forward to holing up in our apartment for a few months with the new baby. Now, I am looking forward to the same few months, but everything else about the picture will be totally different.
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Bohemian vs. Bohemian
While in Prague I had a question that has been bothering me ever since: What does Bohemia (the former kingdom located in what is now the Czech Republic) have to do with bohemians (as in starving artists)?
Turns out, not much.
The term bohemian, written with a lower case "B," refers to the counter-culture lifestyle of artist and intellectuals who choose to forgo material possessions. They live in marginal poverty while pursuing "their art," and often have unconventional styles of dress and morals.
First used by the French in the mid-1800s, the term was soon after was adopted by English speakers. The French began using the term to refer to artists who were moving in to low-rent, gypsy neighborhoods. At the time the French mistakenly believed that the gypsies* came from Bohemia.
In my quick Google search to find the answer I came across one piece of information that I found particularly funny. Wikipedia listed several parts of cities that are now considered to be “Bohemia.” Among the European locations are Montmartre in Paris, Chelsea in London, and Schwabing in Munich. Missing from the list, any place that is in the Czech Republic.
* Gypsies, also known as Roma, are believed to be originally from India and began migrating West toward Europe in the 14th century.
Turns out, not much.
The term bohemian, written with a lower case "B," refers to the counter-culture lifestyle of artist and intellectuals who choose to forgo material possessions. They live in marginal poverty while pursuing "their art," and often have unconventional styles of dress and morals.
First used by the French in the mid-1800s, the term was soon after was adopted by English speakers. The French began using the term to refer to artists who were moving in to low-rent, gypsy neighborhoods. At the time the French mistakenly believed that the gypsies* came from Bohemia.
In my quick Google search to find the answer I came across one piece of information that I found particularly funny. Wikipedia listed several parts of cities that are now considered to be “Bohemia.” Among the European locations are Montmartre in Paris, Chelsea in London, and Schwabing in Munich. Missing from the list, any place that is in the Czech Republic.
* Gypsies, also known as Roma, are believed to be originally from India and began migrating West toward Europe in the 14th century.
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Auf Wiedersehen Deutschland
I've postponed writing this post for a week or so. I didn't want to say anything until it I was 100 percent sure. Now, the tickets are books, contracts are broken, and Kevin and I will be saying "tschüs" to Germany sooner then expected.
There have been rumored changes at Kevin's company for months now. That's why, when a good opportunity back in the states presented itself, we felt like we had no choice but to accept. It was our first act as responsible parents. I'm having a great time living in Germany, traveling to other countries, and tasting as much local food as possible. But when making this decision I need to balance these desires with what would be the best decision for my family. As it turns out, having an income and health insuranceis more important then ever now.
We leave on December 6 and I will certainly be blogging until then. My Mom and sister will be visiting for the last week of the month, so I still have a bit of traveling planned. We also have a lot of get-togethers planned in the coming days. So, there will be plenty to write about.
Also, I expect that I will keep up the blog for a while upon returning back to the states. Even though I haven't been gone for as long as most of the other ex-pats that I've come to know over the last year I do anticipate some culture shocks upon my return. Also, I will keep writing on The Apron Caper, regularly. I still have to eat.
In the meantime, I'd like to say thank you to all of you who have read my blog over the last year. Knowing that someone, somewhere was logging on to read about my travels and experiences has kept me blogging.
There have been rumored changes at Kevin's company for months now. That's why, when a good opportunity back in the states presented itself, we felt like we had no choice but to accept. It was our first act as responsible parents. I'm having a great time living in Germany, traveling to other countries, and tasting as much local food as possible. But when making this decision I need to balance these desires with what would be the best decision for my family. As it turns out, having an income and health insuranceis more important then ever now.
We leave on December 6 and I will certainly be blogging until then. My Mom and sister will be visiting for the last week of the month, so I still have a bit of traveling planned. We also have a lot of get-togethers planned in the coming days. So, there will be plenty to write about.
Also, I expect that I will keep up the blog for a while upon returning back to the states. Even though I haven't been gone for as long as most of the other ex-pats that I've come to know over the last year I do anticipate some culture shocks upon my return. Also, I will keep writing on The Apron Caper, regularly. I still have to eat.
In the meantime, I'd like to say thank you to all of you who have read my blog over the last year. Knowing that someone, somewhere was logging on to read about my travels and experiences has kept me blogging.
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Carnival Begins
Carnival season, also known as German's fifth season, started today.
To be precise, Carnival always starts on November 11, at 11:11 A.M. I am not sure the significance of the date and time, but I do know that eleven is the number of Carnival. All of the events start at 11:11 A.M. That's why today is referred to as “der Elften Elften,” which translates from German to "Eleven Eleven."
Despite the dismal forecast this morning, I set out see what festivities Bonn had planned. Last year I remember watching der Elften Elften in Cologne on T.V. Huge crowds dress in costume gathered in the old town to sing, dance, and drink Kolsch.
This year in Bonn the crowd was marketable smaller. This didn't really surprise me: Bonn is not the Carnival Capital that Cologne is. Also, this year celebration fell on a Tuesday, while last year's even was on a Sunday. Even still, a few hundred people, most in costume, gathered in the market square to sing, dance, and drink Kolsch.
I think I would get a lot more out of Carnival activities if I could understand what they were saying. But, I am always impressed at the Germans love for a party. It wasn't but a few minuets past 10:30 when I arrived, but still the beer was flowing, people were decked out in the finest clown gear, and when the band played “Viva Colonia” the crowd joined in and swayed to the music.
To be precise, Carnival always starts on November 11, at 11:11 A.M. I am not sure the significance of the date and time, but I do know that eleven is the number of Carnival. All of the events start at 11:11 A.M. That's why today is referred to as “der Elften Elften,” which translates from German to "Eleven Eleven."
Despite the dismal forecast this morning, I set out see what festivities Bonn had planned. Last year I remember watching der Elften Elften in Cologne on T.V. Huge crowds dress in costume gathered in the old town to sing, dance, and drink Kolsch.This year in Bonn the crowd was marketable smaller. This didn't really surprise me: Bonn is not the Carnival Capital that Cologne is. Also, this year celebration fell on a Tuesday, while last year's even was on a Sunday. Even still, a few hundred people, most in costume, gathered in the market square to sing, dance, and drink Kolsch.
I think I would get a lot more out of Carnival activities if I could understand what they were saying. But, I am always impressed at the Germans love for a party. It wasn't but a few minuets past 10:30 when I arrived, but still the beer was flowing, people were decked out in the finest clown gear, and when the band played “Viva Colonia” the crowd joined in and swayed to the music.
Monday, November 10, 2008
Wurst of the Week: November 10
Kevin couldn't resist ordering this dish, which included two grilled Czech sausages. They were made of beef and a little smoky -- kind of like cross between a hot dog and Kolbasy.
Prague Jewish Quarter Tour
On Sunday Morning in Prague Kevin and I took a tour of Prague's Jewish quarter, known as Josefov, through Wittmann Tours. We aren't usually the type of people who take tours, but on our trip to the glass factory we met a mother and daughter from the West Coast of the U.S. who took this tour and absolutely raved about it. They said it was the best thing they during their stay.
The Spanish Synagogue
What made the tour stand out for the others? Wittmann Tours, owned and operated by Sylvie Wittmann, gives tours of Jewish sites in the Czech Republic, Poland, and Germany. In addition to giving Jewish-focused tours, Ms. Wittmann -- a native Czech Jew -- has worked to bring Central European Jews back to their Synagogues throughout Bohemia. In 1991 she founded a new Jewish community in Prague to accommodate the city's reemerging reformed Jewish population.
All of her tour guides are very knowledgeable, with backgrounds in Jewish history as well as a few Holocaust survivors. Our guide, Olga Kourová, was very well versed in Jewish history, as well as fine arts and literature. We are again lucky to have a very small group -- there were only three of us.
The Old Jewish Cemetery
The tour of the Jewish Ghetto included all sites of the Jewish Museum, the Old Jewish Cemetery, and the Old New Synagogue. These buildings are the best-preserved collection of Jewish monuments in all of Europe. I was amazed to learn that the some historians believe that the Nazis planned to build a museum about the "exterminated race" and therefore did not destroy Prague Jewish landmarks or the possessions confiscated from the temples and families as the residents were forces to into labor camps. It is because of this well-preserved collection of books, photos, and art displayed in today's Jewish Museum is one of the foremost collections in the world.
Franz Kafka Statue
Though certainly a part of the three-hour talk, the tour didn't focus only on the experience of Prague's Jewish population during the Holocaust. The city's Jews have a long history, dating back to the 13th Century. Times of acceptance were intermixed with times of discrimination.
The Spanish SynagogueAll of her tour guides are very knowledgeable, with backgrounds in Jewish history as well as a few Holocaust survivors. Our guide, Olga Kourová, was very well versed in Jewish history, as well as fine arts and literature. We are again lucky to have a very small group -- there were only three of us.
The Old Jewish Cemetery
Franz Kafka StatueFriday, November 7, 2008
The Prague Castle
Set on a hill overlooking the Old and New Towns, the Prague Castle dominates in the city's skyline. According to the Guinness Book of Records, this is the largest castle in the world. We admired it from a far as soon as we arrived in Prague, and on Saturday morning we set out to see it for ourselves.
Not a single structure, the castle is actually a serious of buildings surrounded by a wall. Construction began in the 9th century and it has been the seat of power for the royal families of Bohemia, the Czech bishops, and later the governments of Czeslovakia and the Czech republic. The crown jewels are houses somewhere in this complex, along with other treasures of the state.
Entrance to the castle grounds and main cathedral is free. You can walk take in the impressive size and complex wondering through the many courtyards. There are also lookout points that afford picturesque view of the city below. Surrounding the castle are gardens, which appear to be a popular place for residents to run, walk there dogs, and play with their children.
In front of one of the palaces are uniformed guards. They stand, unflinching, as tourists pose for pictures. Other guards march around the castle’s grounds. At noon the guards change position in an elaborate ceremony.
Admission tickets must be purchased to enter many of the buildings. We opted for the "short tour" package, which include entry into the Old Royal Palace, an exhibition entitled "The Story of Prague Castle," St. George's Basilica, and Golden Lane, a small street with shops and Kafka’s house.
We also purchased the accompanying audio guide. As an added benefit, visitors with the audio guide getting to skip the long line the wrapped around the outside of the cathedral. We were told that the line could last upwards of an hour.
Despite having purchased the "short tour," our trip to the castle lasted from 9:30 AM to past 1:30 PM. The audio guide has to be one of the most detailed I've ever listened to, giving lots of historical facts for the interior and exterior of each building in the complex. How else would I have known that jousting matches took place in the great hall of the old palace as a form of amusement for the ladies of the court?
Not a single structure, the castle is actually a serious of buildings surrounded by a wall. Construction began in the 9th century and it has been the seat of power for the royal families of Bohemia, the Czech bishops, and later the governments of Czeslovakia and the Czech republic. The crown jewels are houses somewhere in this complex, along with other treasures of the state.Entrance to the castle grounds and main cathedral is free. You can walk take in the impressive size and complex wondering through the many courtyards. There are also lookout points that afford picturesque view of the city below. Surrounding the castle are gardens, which appear to be a popular place for residents to run, walk there dogs, and play with their children.
In front of one of the palaces are uniformed guards. They stand, unflinching, as tourists pose for pictures. Other guards march around the castle’s grounds. At noon the guards change position in an elaborate ceremony.Admission tickets must be purchased to enter many of the buildings. We opted for the "short tour" package, which include entry into the Old Royal Palace, an exhibition entitled "The Story of Prague Castle," St. George's Basilica, and Golden Lane, a small street with shops and Kafka’s house.
We also purchased the accompanying audio guide. As an added benefit, visitors with the audio guide getting to skip the long line the wrapped around the outside of the cathedral. We were told that the line could last upwards of an hour.
Despite having purchased the "short tour," our trip to the castle lasted from 9:30 AM to past 1:30 PM. The audio guide has to be one of the most detailed I've ever listened to, giving lots of historical facts for the interior and exterior of each building in the complex. How else would I have known that jousting matches took place in the great hall of the old palace as a form of amusement for the ladies of the court?
Thursday, November 6, 2008
Czech Crystal
When traveling to big cities, I like to spend at least half a day somewhere outside of the main part of town. This lets me get a glimpse of a bit of the countryside, go through neighborhoods where "real people" live, and see something other then what's on the beaten path. Usually I take public transportation to these out-of-the-way destination, which adds to the adventure but also increases the amount of research and time the trip requires.
Before leaving for Prague I discovered that one of the possible out-of-town attractions that Kevin and I could visit was a crystal factory. Knowing that Kevin has had his fill of castles and museums, I thought a factory tour would be something that we would both enjoy. I wasn't able to figure out how to get there by public transportation, though, so we decided to take a tour instead.
The tour package included transportation from our hotel to the Rucki Crystal Factory in the town of Nizbor, about 45 minutes outside of the city. No searching for the train station or trying to discern the schedule was necessary. Since November is low season, we were luck to have a semi-private tour. There were only two other people in the group with us. On the way through the city, our guide spoke about the points of interest that we passed and provided us with a bit of history as we traveled along the highway.
The area around Prague is world-famous for it's Bohemian cut crystal, which was first produced in the region in the early 17th century. Glasscutters from Italy and Germany traveled to Bohemia and cut the natural crystal found in the mountains of the region. In the 18th century manufactures began producing cut chalk-glass items. These products brought the Czechs fame, but they fell out of fashion by the early 19th century. Soon, however, the manufactures turned to making lead crystal. And by the middle of the 19th century, the region was again at the top of the industry.
Once we arrived at the factory we switched tour guides. The new guide, who worked for the factory, gave us a brief overview of the family that ran the business and the materials used for production. This factory makes most of its products on an order-by-order basis, which is why the name isn't as well known as other manufactures. Then she took us to see the glass being blown.
It was amazing to see the glowing masses removed from the furnace, and then blown. I kept thinking that it was like bubbles for adults. One thing that shocked and surprised me is that the glass blowers are allow to drink beer and smoke cigarettes while at work. The factory even provides the brew. Our tour guide assured us, though, that it had a very low alcohol content.
After watching the glass being blown, we saw the quality control department in action. Less than 20 percent of all glass blown makes the cut. The rejected pieces are then tossed into large bins, which are then sent back to the furnace. Nothing in the factory is wasted.
The items that are approved are then sent to the cutting room. Workers here sit at diamond-saw wheels for eight-hour shifts. Each day they work on one part of one design. Repeating the cuts over and over again.
After walking through the factory I have a whole new appreciation for cut crystal.
Before leaving for Prague I discovered that one of the possible out-of-town attractions that Kevin and I could visit was a crystal factory. Knowing that Kevin has had his fill of castles and museums, I thought a factory tour would be something that we would both enjoy. I wasn't able to figure out how to get there by public transportation, though, so we decided to take a tour instead.The tour package included transportation from our hotel to the Rucki Crystal Factory in the town of Nizbor, about 45 minutes outside of the city. No searching for the train station or trying to discern the schedule was necessary. Since November is low season, we were luck to have a semi-private tour. There were only two other people in the group with us. On the way through the city, our guide spoke about the points of interest that we passed and provided us with a bit of history as we traveled along the highway.
The area around Prague is world-famous for it's Bohemian cut crystal, which was first produced in the region in the early 17th century. Glasscutters from Italy and Germany traveled to Bohemia and cut the natural crystal found in the mountains of the region. In the 18th century manufactures began producing cut chalk-glass items. These products brought the Czechs fame, but they fell out of fashion by the early 19th century. Soon, however, the manufactures turned to making lead crystal. And by the middle of the 19th century, the region was again at the top of the industry.Once we arrived at the factory we switched tour guides. The new guide, who worked for the factory, gave us a brief overview of the family that ran the business and the materials used for production. This factory makes most of its products on an order-by-order basis, which is why the name isn't as well known as other manufactures. Then she took us to see the glass being blown.
It was amazing to see the glowing masses removed from the furnace, and then blown. I kept thinking that it was like bubbles for adults. One thing that shocked and surprised me is that the glass blowers are allow to drink beer and smoke cigarettes while at work. The factory even provides the brew. Our tour guide assured us, though, that it had a very low alcohol content.After watching the glass being blown, we saw the quality control department in action. Less than 20 percent of all glass blown makes the cut. The rejected pieces are then tossed into large bins, which are then sent back to the furnace. Nothing in the factory is wasted.
The items that are approved are then sent to the cutting room. Workers here sit at diamond-saw wheels for eight-hour shifts. Each day they work on one part of one design. Repeating the cuts over and over again.
After walking through the factory I have a whole new appreciation for cut crystal.
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Obama!!!
I have to postpone my next Prague posts to take the chance to relay the German take on Obama's victory.
For weeks I've been walking around with my Obama pin. In general, it has gone uncommented upon. Today, however, people on the street started talking to me, which in itself is a very un-German activity. They told me how happy they are. Many of them had stayed up late to watch the results on German T.V. or woke up in the wee hours to turn on the radio.
Upon walking into the office today, I was greeted by pats on the back and handshakes. Everyone was so happy for me. They congratulated me. They were happy for themselves as well. When I saw one of the Americans in the office we hugged and all day long talked about what a great day it was.
(Photo (c) The New York Times)
For weeks I've been walking around with my Obama pin. In general, it has gone uncommented upon. Today, however, people on the street started talking to me, which in itself is a very un-German activity. They told me how happy they are. Many of them had stayed up late to watch the results on German T.V. or woke up in the wee hours to turn on the radio.Upon walking into the office today, I was greeted by pats on the back and handshakes. Everyone was so happy for me. They congratulated me. They were happy for themselves as well. When I saw one of the Americans in the office we hugged and all day long talked about what a great day it was.
(Photo (c) The New York Times)
Tuesday, November 4, 2008
Prague Orientation
On Thursday afternoon we arrived in Prague. After figuring out the exchange rate (100 Czech Koruny equals about 4.50 Euro), we got ourselves some Czech Crowns, and headed to the taxi stand outside the airport. Many travel sites and guidebooks say that taxies in Prague are rip offs. But, since I didn't have time to fully research other options for how to get to the city center, we decided to take a cab anyway. The trip was 600 Koruny, which is about 25 Euros. That's still a reasonable price in my book.
After settling into our hotel, we decided to spend the afternoon getting our barrings. Later in the trip we'd discover that Prague is pretty easy to navigate. But we seem to always take the hardest, longest, or least traveled path. Even though we picked up a map at the hotel reception, we didn't ask them to show us the best way to the old town.
Instead of taking a left, which would have gone directly to a bridge across the Vltava River, we went right and rambled through a bunch of quite, residential neighborhoods before stumbling upon the main tourist center. Staying off the beaten path worked out to our advantage though. We had lunch in a local-feeling pub, which was terrific. I had goulash and Kevin had a dish that the waitress translated as "pork stump."
After lunch we found the old town we wondered it's charming, cobble stone streets. Prague is one of the few cities in Europe to have suffered from very little bombing damage during World War II since the city had no war industry. The result is that the city's buildings still have their original detail and the streets veer off with no apparent rhyme of reason.
We were lucky enough to come to the astrological clock at the top of the hour, getting to see the characters emerge from their roost. On the way back to our hotel, we head across the Charles Bridge as dusk turned to dark. With the Prague Castle a glow in the background, our first day in Prague turned out to show off a city even more beautiful then I expected.
After settling into our hotel, we decided to spend the afternoon getting our barrings. Later in the trip we'd discover that Prague is pretty easy to navigate. But we seem to always take the hardest, longest, or least traveled path. Even though we picked up a map at the hotel reception, we didn't ask them to show us the best way to the old town.
Instead of taking a left, which would have gone directly to a bridge across the Vltava River, we went right and rambled through a bunch of quite, residential neighborhoods before stumbling upon the main tourist center. Staying off the beaten path worked out to our advantage though. We had lunch in a local-feeling pub, which was terrific. I had goulash and Kevin had a dish that the waitress translated as "pork stump."After lunch we found the old town we wondered it's charming, cobble stone streets. Prague is one of the few cities in Europe to have suffered from very little bombing damage during World War II since the city had no war industry. The result is that the city's buildings still have their original detail and the streets veer off with no apparent rhyme of reason.
We were lucky enough to come to the astrological clock at the top of the hour, getting to see the characters emerge from their roost. On the way back to our hotel, we head across the Charles Bridge as dusk turned to dark. With the Prague Castle a glow in the background, our first day in Prague turned out to show off a city even more beautiful then I expected.
Monday, November 3, 2008
Wurst of the Week: November 3
I found this unique sausage at the food hall at Galleries Lafayette in Paris. It's called Andouille du Guémené. Requiring 20 to 25 pig intestines, the concentric circles are achieved by winding the intestines around itself and wrapping the completed sausage in beef casing. Once formed it is smoked, dried, then cooked with hay.
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Prego in Prague
We're leaving for the airport in a few hours. Still have to pack, but I'm not really concerned. When you only have a handful of maternity clothing, it's super easy to pick out a weekend's worth of outfits. I probably wont post anything while I'm gone, but look forward to a few trip posts next week.
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
One Trip Before the Baby Comes
After a small freak-out the other day that I have, "seen everything that I wanted to see," Kevin and I booked a weekend trip to Prague. I though Paris would be my last excursion sans child. But, I'm very excited that we'll fit one more city in. We leave on Thursday and return on Monday morning. I wonder if they celebrate Halloween in the Czech Republic.
Yet, I wonder if this trip will really alleviate my panic. Deep down I know that no matter how much I see or do while living abroad, I'll still come away from the experience feeling like I haven't seen everything I want to see, taste everything I want to taste, and experience the many different cultures and customs.
But, accepting that you can't see everything and taking full advantage of what's at hand is really an important lessen to learn about traveling. (And life in general.) So, I’ll be thankful for the many opportunities I’ve had in the last year and enjoy the weekend.
Yet, I wonder if this trip will really alleviate my panic. Deep down I know that no matter how much I see or do while living abroad, I'll still come away from the experience feeling like I haven't seen everything I want to see, taste everything I want to taste, and experience the many different cultures and customs.
But, accepting that you can't see everything and taking full advantage of what's at hand is really an important lessen to learn about traveling. (And life in general.) So, I’ll be thankful for the many opportunities I’ve had in the last year and enjoy the weekend.
Monday, October 27, 2008
Fall for Cochem
Last spring, when my parents were visiting, we made a day trip to the Mosel River Valley. Nestled upstream from Koblanz on the shores of this windy, picturesque river is the town of Cochem. With its half-timber houses, ancient gate, and abundance of wine shops, Cochem represents the idealized version of a German wine town. And, even though the day we spent with my parents was cold and rainy, Kevin and I vowed we'd be back.
Our return trip came, ironically enough, when Kevin's parents were visiting a few weeks ago. Luckily, this time the weather was on our side. After spending over a year in Germany, I can say that fall is unequivocally the best time of year here. It seems to rain less, and the crisp air is refreshingly perfect for going out wearing a cozy sweater. Adorned with fall's brightly colored leaves, high above the Mosel Valley is the perfect place to enjoy the season.
In Cochem, it was an easy to do this. After parking the car we headed directly to the Sesselbahn, which translates literally as "chair train." Rising nearly 825 feet, this chair lift takes riders to the top of the Pinner Mountain. You can purchase either a round-trip ticket, or take the chair lift up and walk back down. If you choose to get down on your own accord, you are rewarded for your efforts by being able to stop at a small amusement park and zoo or the Cochem castle.
We purchased round-trip tickets, but were still presented with many options once at the tops. There is a path to a lookout point, which is also the site of the Pinner Cross. Here are stunning views of the town, the river, and the surrounding mountains and vineyards. Also, in what I've come to know as typical German fashion, there is a small cafe where you can get a coffee and piece of cake or a beer.
Our return trip came, ironically enough, when Kevin's parents were visiting a few weeks ago. Luckily, this time the weather was on our side. After spending over a year in Germany, I can say that fall is unequivocally the best time of year here. It seems to rain less, and the crisp air is refreshingly perfect for going out wearing a cozy sweater. Adorned with fall's brightly colored leaves, high above the Mosel Valley is the perfect place to enjoy the season.
In Cochem, it was an easy to do this. After parking the car we headed directly to the Sesselbahn, which translates literally as "chair train." Rising nearly 825 feet, this chair lift takes riders to the top of the Pinner Mountain. You can purchase either a round-trip ticket, or take the chair lift up and walk back down. If you choose to get down on your own accord, you are rewarded for your efforts by being able to stop at a small amusement park and zoo or the Cochem castle.We purchased round-trip tickets, but were still presented with many options once at the tops. There is a path to a lookout point, which is also the site of the Pinner Cross. Here are stunning views of the town, the river, and the surrounding mountains and vineyards. Also, in what I've come to know as typical German fashion, there is a small cafe where you can get a coffee and piece of cake or a beer.
Saturday, October 25, 2008
Beer School: Making Up for Lost TIme
Even though I haven't had a brew in months, Kevin still likes to try local beers where ever we travel. When his Dad came to visit a few weeks ago, he too embraced the idea of tasting as many different types of beer as possible. Here's an update on some of the best beers they tried in the last few months.
In Greece, Mythos was the beer of choice. It was light and refreshing -- a perfect match of the hot, dry climate.
In Paris, Kevin was excited to find Leffe, which is still in the running for his favorite overall beer.
In Luxembourg, Diekirch was the local beer suggested. It wasn't anyone's favorite.
Even though this picture was taken in Austria,the perfectly poured German wheat beer seems at home. Erdinger continues to hold it's place as one of the best beers we've tried.
In Greece, Mythos was the beer of choice. It was light and refreshing -- a perfect match of the hot, dry climate.
In Paris, Kevin was excited to find Leffe, which is still in the running for his favorite overall beer.
In Luxembourg, Diekirch was the local beer suggested. It wasn't anyone's favorite.
Even though this picture was taken in Austria,the perfectly poured German wheat beer seems at home. Erdinger continues to hold it's place as one of the best beers we've tried.
Friday, October 24, 2008
Hay, Why Not Stay Here in Germany
There was an article in the New York Time's travel section this week that I feel the need to share. It's about what I think should clearly be called "extreme ecotourism." I'd love to know if any of my more adventurous readers in German have ever tried it. And for my non-German readers, I think this will underscore a point that I've been making throughout the last year: that the German's are really, really green.
So, you're wondering what's the hitch, right? The "hotels" discussed in this article are not actually hotels, but farms that have open their doors to travelers. This concept is not new. Throughout Italy and France there are stories written about travelers who stay in charming farmhouse accommodations, with sheep bleeping and cows mooing just beyond the door.
In German, apparently, instead of staying in the farmhouse, guests really connect with life on the farm by sleeping in the barn. Not barns converted into guesthouse, but barns...with the sheep bleeping and cows mooing right there. And, what makes these farm-stays even more surprising is those guests don’t even have beds. Called Heuhotels, which translates to English as hay hotels, guests sleep in loft filled with the cut grasses.
This really gives a whole new meaning to hitting the hay!
So, you're wondering what's the hitch, right? The "hotels" discussed in this article are not actually hotels, but farms that have open their doors to travelers. This concept is not new. Throughout Italy and France there are stories written about travelers who stay in charming farmhouse accommodations, with sheep bleeping and cows mooing just beyond the door.
In German, apparently, instead of staying in the farmhouse, guests really connect with life on the farm by sleeping in the barn. Not barns converted into guesthouse, but barns...with the sheep bleeping and cows mooing right there. And, what makes these farm-stays even more surprising is those guests don’t even have beds. Called Heuhotels, which translates to English as hay hotels, guests sleep in loft filled with the cut grasses.
This really gives a whole new meaning to hitting the hay!
Wednesday, October 22, 2008
Life as an Expat: Easier But Still Not a Breeze
I've been in Germany now for over one year. Time certainly has flown. It seems like just yesterday that I was getting off the plane, not knowing what to expect.
Day-to-day life, of course has settled down into a series of repeatable routines. Small interactions no longer cause the panic that they once did. I can now understand the postman when he's asking me to sign for a neighbor's package. I can order in a restaurant and ask a shopkeeper for help. I can figure out which train ticket I need to purchase depending on where I am going. (I only recently learned that I was buying the wrong class tickets. For a year I have been getting by on cheaper rides then I should have.)
But, I am still constantly surprised by what I still don't know. Our T.V. receiver was out for the past few days since I couldn't read the instructions about how to replace the card that determines what service I have. I still don't have voice mail set up on my cell phone or have a home answering service. And how the medical system works is still a complete mystery.
Day-to-day life, of course has settled down into a series of repeatable routines. Small interactions no longer cause the panic that they once did. I can now understand the postman when he's asking me to sign for a neighbor's package. I can order in a restaurant and ask a shopkeeper for help. I can figure out which train ticket I need to purchase depending on where I am going. (I only recently learned that I was buying the wrong class tickets. For a year I have been getting by on cheaper rides then I should have.)
But, I am still constantly surprised by what I still don't know. Our T.V. receiver was out for the past few days since I couldn't read the instructions about how to replace the card that determines what service I have. I still don't have voice mail set up on my cell phone or have a home answering service. And how the medical system works is still a complete mystery.
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
The Benefits of Blogging
I had a number of reasons for starting this blog.
I wanted to recording my travels and experiences abroad. The fact that a blog post is posted for all to read makes me want to keeping it updated. Knowing that people log on inspires dedication that I never has to writing in a journal.
Sharing what's happening with friends and family back home was another incentive for starting the blog. One blog post is more effective then e-mailing the same stories over and over. Of course, I still keep in touch with friends and family, but the blog gives then a baseline for what has been going on in my life. (I also know who never reads the blog, based on what they don't know.)
One thing that I never expected has turned out to be one of its greatest benefits: Connecting with a community of other expats. Initially, this community was a strictly virtual one. Reading other expat blogs and getting comments from them quickly made me feel like I wasn't as alone in adjusting to life abroad.
I have also been lucky enough to meet a few wonderful people in my area through this blog. Sharing my story online has widened my real-life social circle and introduced me to my neighbors.
I wanted to recording my travels and experiences abroad. The fact that a blog post is posted for all to read makes me want to keeping it updated. Knowing that people log on inspires dedication that I never has to writing in a journal.
Sharing what's happening with friends and family back home was another incentive for starting the blog. One blog post is more effective then e-mailing the same stories over and over. Of course, I still keep in touch with friends and family, but the blog gives then a baseline for what has been going on in my life. (I also know who never reads the blog, based on what they don't know.)
One thing that I never expected has turned out to be one of its greatest benefits: Connecting with a community of other expats. Initially, this community was a strictly virtual one. Reading other expat blogs and getting comments from them quickly made me feel like I wasn't as alone in adjusting to life abroad.
I have also been lucky enough to meet a few wonderful people in my area through this blog. Sharing my story online has widened my real-life social circle and introduced me to my neighbors.
Monday, October 20, 2008
Spud Love
According to an April 2008 article in The American Journal of Potato Research, German per capita potato consumption is seven on one-third bushels. There are between 54 and 60 pounds of potatoes in a bushel. That means the average German eats between 396 and 440 pounds of potatoes annually, or 1.14 pounds of potatoes a day.
That's an awful lot of spuds. But, in my experience it doesn't sound too far off. When I've talked to Germans about their shopping habits, I'm told that they buy potatoes at a rate of 5 to 10 kilos (or 10 to 20 pounds) at a time. Every time I've been invited to eat in the home of a German, potatoes were served. I even know of an all potato restaurant in Königswinter. (They serve the absolute best fries!)
You'd think it would be boring to eat so many potatoes, but there are countless ways to cook them around here. You can get them mashed, roasted, boiled, or fried; in salads, with or without mayo; transformed into dumplings, pancakes, or noodles; and baked and stuffed, or au gratin.
Last week, a colleague of mine told me that he's been getting his potatoes direct from the source. A farmer he knows delivers potatoes – along with a few other farm fresh staples – once a week. Excited by the thought of fresh organic potatoes combine with being able to directly support a local farmer meant that I didn't hesitate to get in on the action. Last Friday I picked up my two-kilo order. (I know, I know, I'm still not a German. Four pounds is nothing!)
These potatoes were delicious – earthy and fresh. But, what excited me the most about the potatoes I purchased was that I got not one, but two heart shaped spuds. If that doesn't show that they were grown with love, I don't know what would!
That's an awful lot of spuds. But, in my experience it doesn't sound too far off. When I've talked to Germans about their shopping habits, I'm told that they buy potatoes at a rate of 5 to 10 kilos (or 10 to 20 pounds) at a time. Every time I've been invited to eat in the home of a German, potatoes were served. I even know of an all potato restaurant in Königswinter. (They serve the absolute best fries!)You'd think it would be boring to eat so many potatoes, but there are countless ways to cook them around here. You can get them mashed, roasted, boiled, or fried; in salads, with or without mayo; transformed into dumplings, pancakes, or noodles; and baked and stuffed, or au gratin.
Last week, a colleague of mine told me that he's been getting his potatoes direct from the source. A farmer he knows delivers potatoes – along with a few other farm fresh staples – once a week. Excited by the thought of fresh organic potatoes combine with being able to directly support a local farmer meant that I didn't hesitate to get in on the action. Last Friday I picked up my two-kilo order. (I know, I know, I'm still not a German. Four pounds is nothing!)
These potatoes were delicious – earthy and fresh. But, what excited me the most about the potatoes I purchased was that I got not one, but two heart shaped spuds. If that doesn't show that they were grown with love, I don't know what would!
Wurst of the Week: October 20
These sausages might just be my favorite...they have bits of cheese that gets melty and delicious when cooked.
Friday, October 17, 2008
A Day in Normandy
Even though my husband lived in Manhattan for years, or perhaps because of it, Kevin doesn't like to spend too much time in a big city without an escape. When a week in Paris was planned for his parent's recent visit, he had trouble imagining what we would do for so many days. He saw an endless progression of museums and monuments, museums and monuments.
To keep him sane, and to give the rest of us a chance to see another part of the country, we decided to plan a day trip. Our destination was easy to pick when looking at a map. Kevin's Grandfather served in the army during World War II and was one of the soldiers to storm the beaches of Normandy. Our outing would be to the beaches.
The D-Day beaches are almost three hours from Paris, not including city traffic. This didn't leave us much time to explore the many D-Day museums or visit the American cemetery, but it was still powerful to walk along the coast and imagine what his experience must have been like.
The sea-air worked up our appetites, and we were happy to warm up with lunch. Muscles and fries were exactly what I wanted, and I found them in a little restaurant just off the boardwalk. The day was cold and very windy, but inside was a great place to watch the choppy white-capped waves.
On the way home we set the navi to avoid the highway, and drove through the farming area inland from the coast. Though this excursion was beautiful, the sights weren't the main attraction. We went in search of Calvados.
Normandy is a major apple-producing region, and is known for its apple brandy, Calvados. It’s available from farmers throughout the region: you just need to know what to look for. Small signs on the main road announce where to turn for local products. However, this is a mission that, especially for the non-French speaking traveler, must be taken on with a sense of adventure. Sometimes, when you find your way to the farm, there is no one home. Other times, you simply can't find the farm at all.
But when you do find a farm store, you are almost always rewarded for your efforts. We were.
Greeted by one of the owners of the orchard, we were invited into the farm's tasting room. Here we were given samples of four bottles of Calvados, each produced on site and aged for different lengths of time. Side by side tasters were able to discern differences as the liquor developed. We were also invited to taste the farm's cider and Pommeau.
Some claim that Pommeau is Normandy's best-kept secret. It is unfermented apple juice, fortified with Calvados (apple brandy) and aged in a barrel. It is kind of like an apple wine, with hints of pear and vanilla that is served in place of more common dessert wine, such as port.
To keep him sane, and to give the rest of us a chance to see another part of the country, we decided to plan a day trip. Our destination was easy to pick when looking at a map. Kevin's Grandfather served in the army during World War II and was one of the soldiers to storm the beaches of Normandy. Our outing would be to the beaches.The D-Day beaches are almost three hours from Paris, not including city traffic. This didn't leave us much time to explore the many D-Day museums or visit the American cemetery, but it was still powerful to walk along the coast and imagine what his experience must have been like.
The sea-air worked up our appetites, and we were happy to warm up with lunch. Muscles and fries were exactly what I wanted, and I found them in a little restaurant just off the boardwalk. The day was cold and very windy, but inside was a great place to watch the choppy white-capped waves.
On the way home we set the navi to avoid the highway, and drove through the farming area inland from the coast. Though this excursion was beautiful, the sights weren't the main attraction. We went in search of Calvados.
Normandy is a major apple-producing region, and is known for its apple brandy, Calvados. It’s available from farmers throughout the region: you just need to know what to look for. Small signs on the main road announce where to turn for local products. However, this is a mission that, especially for the non-French speaking traveler, must be taken on with a sense of adventure. Sometimes, when you find your way to the farm, there is no one home. Other times, you simply can't find the farm at all.But when you do find a farm store, you are almost always rewarded for your efforts. We were.
Greeted by one of the owners of the orchard, we were invited into the farm's tasting room. Here we were given samples of four bottles of Calvados, each produced on site and aged for different lengths of time. Side by side tasters were able to discern differences as the liquor developed. We were also invited to taste the farm's cider and Pommeau.
Some claim that Pommeau is Normandy's best-kept secret. It is unfermented apple juice, fortified with Calvados (apple brandy) and aged in a barrel. It is kind of like an apple wine, with hints of pear and vanilla that is served in place of more common dessert wine, such as port.
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Not Debatable
This photo was on the home page of the Irish Times' Web site today. Thanks to my sister for sending the link. It totally made my day. I hope you enjoy it too.
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Ah, The Quite Life
It's been a busy few months. I don't really know where September went. And let's not even talk about October. It's half over and I didn't even realize it began.
We've certainly had a great time. Greece, Austria, and France. Big cities, small towns, and everything in between. Weddings, birthdays, and wine festivals. Churches, museums, and monuments. Breakfasts, lunches, and dinners. It's all a wonderful blur. Thankfully I've been taking photos all along and updating the blog. Without them, I don't know that I'd be able to remember everything.
But now, for a few short days anyway, I have nothing planned. And I'm loving it.
We've certainly had a great time. Greece, Austria, and France. Big cities, small towns, and everything in between. Weddings, birthdays, and wine festivals. Churches, museums, and monuments. Breakfasts, lunches, and dinners. It's all a wonderful blur. Thankfully I've been taking photos all along and updating the blog. Without them, I don't know that I'd be able to remember everything.
But now, for a few short days anyway, I have nothing planned. And I'm loving it.
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Moselle, Rhine, and Ahr: Wine Festivals
Fall is harvest time. Around here, that means it's time to pick the grapes. The Moselle, Rhine, and Ahr River valleys, are all within a stone's throw. In these vineyards, along with those in the neighboring Rhineland-Palatinate, over 70 percent of all German wines are produced.
Riesling is the king of German grapes, but it's not the only variety grown. Other wine wines produced in the region include Scheurebe, Ruländer, Silvaner, Gerwürztraminer, and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). Red wines, include Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Dornfelder, Portugieser and Trollinger.
Fall also means that the picturesque towns surrounding the vineyards come alive with festivals. Typically these events take place in a town's main square, and include music, pagentry and lots of food and drinks. Many towns have wine stores and cellars that are open even on Sundays this time year. Here you can taste the local wines and purchase bottles to take home. But, be sure not to miss the real delicacy at these festivals: a drink called Federweißer.
Also known as new or fresh wine, Federweißer literally translates to feather white. It is made from fermented freshly pressed grapes, known as must. Typically, Federweißer is made from harvests lesser-quality grapes. It owes its appearance, which is greenish white, to suspended yeast.
Federweißer is sold when the alcohol content reaches 4 percent. The beverage continues to ferment in the bottle as the sugars in the grapes continue break down, topping out at a 10 percent alcohol content. The bottled cannot be sealed. Instead, a permeable lid is used to allow the gasses to be released and stops the bottle from exploding.
For this reason it is hard to transport. That, compounded with the fact that it needs to be consumed within a few days of production, make this a real seasonal treat. It is only found in wine-producing areas during harvest time.
Federweißer is made from white grapes. The comparable, but less common, red grape variety is called Roter Rauscher. Both tastes light and refreshing – reminiscent of grape lemonade – and pair very well with savory foods. The local traditional compliment is Zwiebelkuchen.
Zwiebelkuchen, which translates as onion cake, is really more like an onion quiche. Made with a single, bottom yeast crust, the filling consists of steamed onions, diced bacon, cream, and sometimes caraway seeds.
Riesling is the king of German grapes, but it's not the only variety grown. Other wine wines produced in the region include Scheurebe, Ruländer, Silvaner, Gerwürztraminer, and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). Red wines, include Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Dornfelder, Portugieser and Trollinger.
Fall also means that the picturesque towns surrounding the vineyards come alive with festivals. Typically these events take place in a town's main square, and include music, pagentry and lots of food and drinks. Many towns have wine stores and cellars that are open even on Sundays this time year. Here you can taste the local wines and purchase bottles to take home. But, be sure not to miss the real delicacy at these festivals: a drink called Federweißer.
Also known as new or fresh wine, Federweißer literally translates to feather white. It is made from fermented freshly pressed grapes, known as must. Typically, Federweißer is made from harvests lesser-quality grapes. It owes its appearance, which is greenish white, to suspended yeast.
Federweißer is sold when the alcohol content reaches 4 percent. The beverage continues to ferment in the bottle as the sugars in the grapes continue break down, topping out at a 10 percent alcohol content. The bottled cannot be sealed. Instead, a permeable lid is used to allow the gasses to be released and stops the bottle from exploding.
For this reason it is hard to transport. That, compounded with the fact that it needs to be consumed within a few days of production, make this a real seasonal treat. It is only found in wine-producing areas during harvest time.
Federweißer is made from white grapes. The comparable, but less common, red grape variety is called Roter Rauscher. Both tastes light and refreshing – reminiscent of grape lemonade – and pair very well with savory foods. The local traditional compliment is Zwiebelkuchen.
Zwiebelkuchen, which translates as onion cake, is really more like an onion quiche. Made with a single, bottom yeast crust, the filling consists of steamed onions, diced bacon, cream, and sometimes caraway seeds.
Monday, October 13, 2008
The Potty Post
This post has been a long time in the making. For the last year I have encountered many bathrooms worthy of a photograph. More often than not I don't have my camera with me on these visits, but since being a tourist is my current occupation, I've had it with me enough to document a few of the most interesting restrooms that I've found.
And so, without further ado, here is my collection of favorite restrooms...
The bathrooms in Germany are generally super clean -- even the public ones on the autobahn. Here's a video of how some of these rest areas stay so fresh with self-cleaning toilets.
Though you hear stories about a hole in the ground, I've only seen one of these "toilets" since we moved here last October.
The French have so much style. Here, even the toilet is fancy.
In Ghent, Kevin and I saw these pods and I had no idea what they were at first.
Then, after we figured it out, I asked Kevin to demo it for the picture. He never actually used this pod, though we saw lots of men who took advantage of them during street festival we were attending.
You'd never believe that this is the bathroom for a very pleasant creperie in Paris. Entering the restroom was like going into a whole different world.
This picture documents the craziest sink I've seen.
And so, without further ado, here is my collection of favorite restrooms...
The bathrooms in Germany are generally super clean -- even the public ones on the autobahn. Here's a video of how some of these rest areas stay so fresh with self-cleaning toilets.
Though you hear stories about a hole in the ground, I've only seen one of these "toilets" since we moved here last October.
The French have so much style. Here, even the toilet is fancy.
In Ghent, Kevin and I saw these pods and I had no idea what they were at first.
Then, after we figured it out, I asked Kevin to demo it for the picture. He never actually used this pod, though we saw lots of men who took advantage of them during street festival we were attending.
You'd never believe that this is the bathroom for a very pleasant creperie in Paris. Entering the restroom was like going into a whole different world.This picture documents the craziest sink I've seen.
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